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Old 05-19-2008, 06:45 AM   #131 (permalink)
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I think that console is going to be the most informative console of any automobile out there. With over 14 gauges (some repeats?), when are you going to have time to look at the road?
Seriously, awesome progress, look forward to the videos you'll post of the completed project. That is, I hope there's videos.

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Old 05-19-2008, 10:21 AM   #132 (permalink)
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the metro experience (retired) - '94 geo metro 4 dr HB
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Looking good! I'm very impressed with all the work you've put into your car. As a metro owner, I appreciate the photo autopsy you did along the way of the rusty areas. If I'm going to keep my metro on the road for years to come it's gonna need some kind of metal work. This thread will be of great help in that event.
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:26 PM   #133 (permalink)
igo
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Awesome work. This has gone together faster then I expected.
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:25 PM   #134 (permalink)
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It looks even better now




Body is installed for the last time for the most part. Have to take the drivers fender off and redrill the hood latch cable hole and run it.

Also the drivers door upper hinge and passenger lower hinge are the same so anyone looking to replace their bad upper hinges can just find opposite side lower hinges and use. That will make finding good hinges way easier.

For anyone wanting to see some pics of the old car rust here is a few shots of the floor. Large pics of it are on my site so you can see detail of how the floor on these cars typically rusts out.

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Old 05-21-2008, 04:51 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Progress! Good to see some skin on it again.

I came back to this thread looking for the control arm pics (found 'em). They're going on the ForkenSwift - amazing what one winter did to them. They're swiss cheese. Structurally intact (meaning they haven't collapsed - because the main double-thickness seams are still OK), but will not survive another winter. Welding is imminent, weather permitting (car's outside, on jack stands).

Do you happen to know if I can pull the control arms off without removing the rear bracket? The front nuts will come off, but I'm afraid if I wrench hard on the bracket bolts, I'll either break them or tear them out of the floor.

I wondered if I soaked the rear bushing in lubricant if I could re&re it...
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:12 PM   #136 (permalink)
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PB Blaster is about the best thign for rusted nuts. Squirt them a couple times a day for a few days ahead of when you do the work. I would also suggest a wire brush on any exposed threads too. Worked wonders when pulling old U bolts form the rear axle of my Ranger.
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:38 PM   #137 (permalink)
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The rear bushing at one time probably could be removed from the control arm but I really doubt that it will be easy to get the arm out of it now on any of them that have a few miles on them

I am with Z spray something on them for a few days to get them free. I think you can get the bolts out if you spray them a few times/days ahead of when you go to take them out. If nothing else the metal is thick enough there to just drill through it all the way into the floor and stick a big bolt and washer on top and put a nut on the bottom to do away with the welded-on nut inside the body. Btw I wrote a bit more about how to repair the frames here. I added measurements from the shop manual so you can make sure they stay square.

Here are some fancy looking bumpers

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Old 05-21-2008, 07:46 PM   #138 (permalink)
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OK, thanks for the bushing advice. I would prefer to get them out just to make more room to grind back to clean metal, but I think I can squeak it if I leave them in while I do the repair.

Thanks for the repair link - I was looking for that at your site today.
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Honda mods: Ecomodding my $800 Honda Fit 5-speed beater
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Ecodriving test: Manual vs. automatic transmission MPG showdown



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www.MetroMPG.com - fuel efficiency info for Geo Metro owners
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:59 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Another option would be take the bolts on the front bracket off and just pull the arms down out of the way so you can still get to everything.

If you have lots of time and patience you can probably use a sledgehammer and get the arms free of the rear bushing. Just make sure the car is really stable and have a backup brace in case you yank it off the jackstands. The front bushing will also be a bit of effort so just keep working at them and you will get them free.
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:01 AM   #140 (permalink)
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I'll only add, do be careful while working and wrenching hard under the car. Over the last weekend a good friend was injured in Moab, when he crawled under someone elses vehicle to help fix a broken axle. While pulling on a part, the vehicle fell on him. 4 men and 2 women LIFTED the Isuzu Rodeo off him so he could slide out. He wad a cut on his head, but had taken a lot of weight on his abdomen. It took 45 minutes for help to arrive (Search and Rescue on ATVs and a helo). He was in bad shape with internal bleeding. He needed to be revived once during the helo flight. Emergency surgery repaired the tears in artery to his colon. He MIGHT get to go home tomorrow.

I only mention this to remind everyone to be careful. I'm a big guy, but I can't possibly bench press even a Metro. A couple extra minutes to make sure the vehicle was safe to work under would have meant a little extra time on the trail, but beers and laughter for everyone once back to the campsite. It sure could have been worse.

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