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Old 09-01-2008, 07:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Halfway Hypermiling Is Hooey!

I'm very disappointed in my initial results at this game.

2000 Ford Ranger w/flexfuel engine, no mods
Mostly rural Georgia driving, 55 mph speed limit, lots of hills

Ordinary driving with cruise set at 55 mph = 23 mpg

Halway hypermiling = 22 mpg
Scangauge 2 used to maintain <30 TPS, consistent with safety and courtesy. This often means topping the hills at 40 mph.
Coasting down hills and to stops w/motor running
This was a real shock, because the SG2 seemed to be indicating a lot better results. I didn't think calibrating was needed for the MPG readout.

The lesson I take from this is to go back to cruise control until I'm ready to make a higher investment in driving and/or mods.

Lane

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Old 09-01-2008, 07:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes, calibration is required for accuracy. What is your idle TPS? 30 seems a little high. Even on accelerations I rarely break +12 TPS above my idle level. (My idle TPS = 10, so I rarely get more than 22 TPS)
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Patience

Please don't let one tankful ruin your spirit.
It takes time and practice to find out what works best for you in any given driving situation.
The SG is a good tool to use, but, it is just that, a tool.
You are the operational factor in this equation.
You are smarter than the truck.
All you need now is practice, which takes time and patience to allow yourself that time.
Many of us started out by going to the cruise unit. It takes the human out of the equation. It also helped me learn I don't have to travel to work at 75+ to be on time.

Welcome to Ecomodder,
I hope (and believe) you will learn a lot here.
Look at the truck threads. They will have the info you want to get your mpg up.
As for mods, you've already done the first two;
Scan Gage, for instant feedback.
Adjusting the nut holding the wheel. (which can be the most difficult)
You may want to try something simple for you first aero-mod.
An aero cap perhaps or a front lower air damn.
Check Aero head and Big Dave, they have lots of good ideas for trucks.

Adiós Amoeba,
Schultz
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azraelswrd View Post
Yes, calibration is required for accuracy. What is your idle TPS? 30 seems a little high. Even on accelerations I rarely break +12 TPS above my idle level. (My idle TPS = 10, so I rarely get more than 22 TPS)
My idle TPS is 15, and I hit on 29 as the max as being something that's easy to spot and is not too painful for starting up and climbing hills.

Thanks for the encouragement, Shultz. Although I only have two hypermiling tanksful with calculations, I have several more where I was unable to keep the figures. So I've had a fair amount of practice at arriving at a mode of hypermiling with which I'm currently comfortable. As I say, I'll need to make some additional commitment to see an improvement, I think.

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Old 09-01-2008, 11:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'll agree with your title and with what you have said ... Halfway hypermiling = half way results.

This isn't the miracle pill everybody expects. No jump in your car and tell it to hypermile and get 50+mpg. If you already admitted to not being committed to the task then at least your making progress.

I am sure once you decide that cutting your dependence on oil is necessary for you for any reason, you will make the effort to drive smarter and then see the results others are getting.

As an example, the only thing my brother is willing to do in his F-250 diesel 4x4 is slow down and coast. His original mpgs were 8-10mpg. He now calls me with every tankful giggling that he gets 15-17mpg. Doesn't sound like much but in a diesel its a big deal, but that is as far as he can commit to right now and is happy with the results.

So understand that it is work, much of it is in your head, but once you make the commitment it will pay you back.
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Old 09-01-2008, 06:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Some things to work on are slowing down or coasting to stop lights so you are getting to them when they are green instead of driving right up to them when they are red and having to come to a complete stop. I think I read that it takes 20% more fuel to get a car going from a complete stop than it does if you are able to keep the car rolling. If you are driving a manual transmission try to make your shifts at as low rpm's as possible and stay in the highest possible gear at all times. I usually shift between 2000-2500 rpm. Run your tires at maximum pressure. Keep the engine well tuned and serviced. Of course there are many other things that will help, but these are just a few I could think of right now. You might want to experiment with different brands of gas. I have found that I get about 10% better mileage off of Texaco gas than I do off of BP in my daily driver. I guess it comes from the different additives. I would try several (3-5) consecutive tanks of different brands and compare mileage between the brands. I have heard several people say they got better mileage from Shell, but I haven't tried it.
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Brand doesn't make as much difference (from my experience) as ethanol content -- that's the real kick to the nuts for MPG. But if you have a favorable experience with a particular station or brand, follow your instincts.

slow speeds = focus on tires, weight**
high speeds = focus on aero**

**always refine your driving style and maintain engine quality

Never give up. Knowledge and using that is your greatest weapon in the war against the EPA and poor MPG. (At least that's part of my motivation... )
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Old 09-02-2008, 11:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I'd disagree and agree. Halfway hypermiling will only get you so far, but it will get you halfway there. Halfway there can still be a fairly good increase, but you need to work on your driving technique to know what you're doing. Recently, I took my sister's car to work and back for a few days. I did nothing fancy at all (no engine off), only drove half the miles on the tank, and got 50% above combined EPA for the car. See http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...a-me-4583.html.
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Old 09-02-2008, 11:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I have a Ranger with the same engine and I feel your pain. It is underpowered and sucks up the gas especially in city driving. It also seems to be adversely affected by oxygenated fuels or fuel with alcohol in it. That being said, I have been able to increase my mpg on my commute from 17.5 to about 20.5 without any external mods. I try to time the lights, I coast in neutral, and I shut off the engine at lights (if it is below 90). I haven't increased my tire pressure because my tires are jumpy enough already.
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Old 09-02-2008, 12:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Just after I got my Scangauge, I was getting 40mpg on a certain stretch of 10 mile 65mph zone. I "thought" I was doing the best I could and just accepted it as being a bad part of my commute. After practice and learning new skills, same car with no mods, I am getting AT LEAST 55 mpg on the same short stretch.

You may want to consider increasing your ignition timing a little, but I'm not sure how those flex-fuel vehicles work with that. Just practice practice practice the skills. I think you will find that over time, cruise control will give you your worse fuel economy. Maybe try a different gas station for fill ups...Have you tried any neutral coasting?

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