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Old 08-13-2010, 05:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Started the teardown. Nothing really exciting but i was bored so figured i'd do a few videos:


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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I've always wanted an electric motorbike. Can you take video of the process of mounting the motors? I've never really been sure about how to do that.
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:50 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I'll be videoing the whole process with luck! Got the engine out today and bike is now stripped of all old ICE parts and in the workshop ready for action!


Stripped and ready for action! First step is to order the magura twist grip throttle assembly.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Holy cow I've got to get one of those impact wrenches.
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Old 08-14-2010, 11:22 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Good luck with the project !

BTW, going by the vids, the sprocket looks like it's a goner.
Chances are it - and the chain - has never been replaced if it's very slack.
If the rear wheel is near the aft end of its adjusting distance, the chain is gone - similar system to pushbikes, just sturdier.

Bike chains are pretty much standard - from what I can find, a CBR600 of that vintage uses a very common 530 chain.
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Old 08-14-2010, 11:43 AM   #16 (permalink)
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can you describe the motors and batteries better in terms of size and weight? Are the motors going to be splined directly into eachother or what?

So far the only thing that concerns me about this is that you are a total newbie with bikes. Getting a few thousand miles under your belt with that thing could certainly influence your decisions when it comes to how to distribute that weight, placement of items, all those little component selections. Also, that low end torque that the DC motors can put out will be virtually the opposite torque curve of the motor you just pulled out. An entirely different animal. This isn't a bad thing but for bikes it's not ideal, will be harder to keep shiny side up. Not stopping ya, just a warning.. this obviously isn't a touring bike.
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Old 08-14-2010, 01:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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euromodder , thanks for the tip on the chain. I sorta figured it was shot but nice to know for sure. In any event it would be too short for the new drive setup.

Automcdonough , no need to worry i've about a half dozen experienced biker friends who are all volunteering to do the initial tests! I'll make sure i get correct training before hitting the roads..........oh that sounds sore Initial plan is to run the motors side my side and couple them with a short length of bike chain. I'll be keeping the weight as low as possible. The controller and charger etc will be up top. Original fuel tank will be going back on with its bottom cut out to house the new bits.

Just in after assembling the first motor. Of the two I got from the forklift place only one worked on test. I took the dead one apart and found all the brushes stuck and the com in bad shape. Took it to a local engineering works (guys that understand dc motors fortunatly) and they cleaned up the com and turned the shaft to 19mm. I spent a week of evenings cleaning out the com slots but obviously didnt do a good enough job. On first test the motor turned slowly and sucked amps. So i took it apart again and used a dremel with a .8mm milling cutter to get the slots perfect. Reassembled and hit the power. It nearly jumped off the bench with the torque and spun up to a nice steady whine

Motor number two will be getting the same treatment next week. I also machined off most of the center locating ring from the face plate leaving only 6mm. Cleaned up the faceplate as well. This means I can use almost all the shaft for sprockets.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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Old 08-14-2010, 02:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbauer View Post
In any event it [the chain] would be too short for the new drive setup.
I'd urge you to keep the same final drive setup - i.e. same position of the front sprocket as before.
It works well with the allowed movement of the swingarm in the Honda design - don't make it tougher on yourself than it need be.

An earlier EV m/c conversion that I've been reading about here on ecomodder, ran into a fair bit of trouble by completely changing the final drive lay-out (using rollers and pulleys etc.).

The load on those parts is very high, and with the high torque of an electric engine, it will possibly be even higher and also very instantaneous the moment you twist the throttle.

I don't want to (re)design your bike conversion, but make full use of the existing engine mounts to mount a very sturdy yet simple drivetrain.


The output shaft of the Honda gearbox (any bike gearbox) is very sturdy, and very much rock solid, ultimately being bolted to the engine bolts.
You want your design to be equally sturdy.
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Old 08-14-2010, 02:51 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Good advice. My only concern about the chain length would be if i have to increase driven sprocket size.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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Old 08-14-2010, 03:15 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I was wondering what your solution will be to the frame. The engine acts as a stressed member in this frame if I'm not mistaken.

I agree that putting the bike up on the center stand should be easy. I have a Suzuki GS1150F that I can put up on the stand with modest effort. It's over 500 lbs and I'm 160. That said, I did need to learn proper technique. I did it wrong a few times and that made for a lot more effort. Your bike is much lighter.

I am thinking of converting an old Suzuki GS400E I have with a seized engine. Watching with interest.

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