Honda CBR600F2 conversion

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by jackbauer

Not sure i understand why a smaller drive sprocket would cause the chain to hit the arm.

With less teeth the sprocket diameter gets smaller, so the chain tapers more toward the front, and the gap that the swingarm sits in gets narrower.

Anyway I have an option on a 50t driven sprocket so i could use a 14t drive to get almost the same 3.58:1 ratio which is only one tooth less than stock

If that's the sort of ratio you want, I'd use the larger sprockets.

[Tweety]

Originally Posted by euromodder

Torque maybe ?
Having a gearbox means having a clutch, so the clutch must be capable of handling the high torque of the electric motor(s).

Well, yeah if you look at a modern 600 sportbike gearbox... But take a look at the gearboxes I mentioned from slightly older bikes, all with lower peakk hp and higher overall torque... And all of them designed by the same guy that designed the gearbox on the Queen Mary... The numbers say it would work...

[Tweety]

Originally Posted by euromodder

With less teeth the sprocket diameter gets smaller, so the chain tapers more toward the front, and the gap that the swingarm sits in gets narrower.


If that's the sort of ratio you want, I'd use the larger sprockets.

Also, if you reduce the front sprocket, you increase wear on the chain...

Tighter bend, higher torque load on a smaller area/less links... And more overlap on the teeth count over the rotation... Go with the 14 front...

[jackbauer]

Ok need a little bit of advice regards chain joining. Seems they two ways are rivet and spring link. Looking on the web everyone seems to have a different opinion so my question would be is it ok to use a spring link in this application?

[adamj12b]

Jack,

You can get a master link for a 530 chain.

RK 530 X-RING Chain Master Link | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

That way if you need to remove links, you just take a few off and rejoin the ends with the master link.

Cheep too!

-Adam

[Tweety]

Originally Posted by jackbauer

Ok need a little bit of advice regards chain joining. Seems they two ways are rivet and spring link. Looking on the web everyone seems to have a different opinion so my question would be is it ok to use a spring link in this application?

Well... There is a reason for that... They are both good, but for widely different purposes... Some overlap, some don't...

A clip link is good based on the fact that it's removable... On certain bikes you need to swap gearing a lot, ie trackbikes, or motorcross bikes and here that's large bonus... The downside is obvious, the spring locking the masterlink, can and do often fail and go missing... Not neccerarily because you are removing it very often, it can do so just because it feels like pissing you off... Check it regularily, and preferably use a safetywire to lock it...

On a roadbike, you will rarely swap the sprockets unless the chain and sprockets are worn out, so removal is a non-issue... A staked master link is stronger and completely maintainance free... It will last just as long as the rest of the chain, and doesn't need to be checked anymore than you check/clean/lube the chain... The downside? You need a chain tool to stake it... Can be done DIY style without one, but that takes some patience and knowledge... Best is to go down to the local bike shop, and they will usually stake the chain for you for free... Buying them a donut and coffee will usually get them to lend it too you for an hour or two...

Yes... You can use a clip-link... But I would recommend a staked link...

[jackbauer]

Thanks for that. I'll use the clip link for setup an initial testing with a cheap chain then switch to a quality chain and rivet.

[jackbauer]

Started to do some intital setup now that i have motor number one back together and taperlock sprockets fitted. Also got a 5 metre length of "10B" roller chain and 5 clip links from challenge power transmission for less than 40 euros. Turns out its the exact same fit as 530 motorcycle chain. Before everyone starts screaming that its not safe or not rated for a bike , relax. Its just for setup so i can determine the link count for the final chain and get everything lined up without worrying about screwing up.

I've ordered a 6mm endmill rated for hard steel so hopefully milling out the keyway on motor number 2 will be less a tour de force than last time .......

[mloveland78]

Do you know the power output of the motors you are using, or their max rpm's. I apologize if I missed that part. Just wanted to make sure that you are not going to over rev them.

[Automcdonough]

those pictures make me smile