Introducing Hermann - no really...

[freebeard]

Thanks for that, euromodder. I went from 145/15 to 165-50/15 on the front and I wasn't overly impressed. I'll check that.

Those are some of the most efficient multi-purpose vehicles, with not too many big drawbacks regarding MPG - well, if you leave out the car that started it all

What? My 1961 VW panel van weighs 1750lb, has a 3/4 ton axle rating, and got 30mpg at 55mph with the original 1600cc egine with Kadron carbs. IOW, within a safety margin, it can carry it's own weight. I'm currently assembling a new motor, a stroker 1776.

When I was younger I carried my table saw around the valley, slept in it at night and used it to carry lumber from the yard on the roof rack. It's pretty multi-purpose, being a panel van with one small oculus in the roof it's a great urban camper.

...or were you talking about the Voyager?

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

I still prefer a station-wagon instead of a minivan, and on a sidenote their longer and lower profile is easier to enhance the aerodynamics.

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by euromodder

Big low profile tyres won't help.
They may need more pressure than advertised , too.

The lower the profile, the more pressure they need.
I got that lesson early on when I put Hagar on 50 profile 17" rubbers ... and it started wandering about on the road.

Yep, going to up the pressures and see what happens. Helga ran on tyres that were applied using a paintbrush at first too. Swapped them for a different make (Uniroyal Rainsports) and they went from being wandery to being solid.

Originally Posted by euromodder

Yeah, I know, I really should start a thread on the Dwarf

Yep.

[Arragonis]

First tank (well 3/4 tank) - about 30% city and the remainder motorway at limit + 10/15 MPH as we were in a hurry. So under "EPA" (ECE combined really) by 20%, going to take some time to recover On the plus side it handled 4 of us + dog + luggage in comfort through the monsoon that is Cumbria. About 500 miles in 2 days - which is why we bought it in the first place.

Negatives - it needs a service. The DPOs (Dreaded Previous Owner(s)) relied on the service indicator which is a "long life" service so oil changes 15-20K, I prefer 10K. Other one is a "shimmy" on the front left (I think) which could be (maybe) a tyre with a flat spot from standing around prior to sale (unlikely as it is still there after 600 miles or so), a wheel out of balance (there is residue from stick on balance weights which are missing) or something more scarily expensive which I'm trying not to think too much about.

So it goes to my local specialist who looked after Helga all those years ago tomorrow for a service and checkup.

Did some research on coasting with the auto. The book states that for the "V6 Diesel Automatic with Four Wheel Drive" version that for towing the car should be in N and not towed for more than 50km at more than 50 km/h due to lack of gearbox lubrication - so coasting at motorway speeds is out but a slow crawl type of coast in traffic should be fine. Not sure if the gearbox is lubricated with the engine running though - will go and ask elsewhere here.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Arragonis

Did some research on coasting with the auto. The book states that for the "V6 Diesel Automatic with Four Wheel Drive" version that for towing the car should be in N and not towed for more than 50km at more than 50 km/h due to lack of gearbox lubrication - so coasting at motorway speeds is out but a slow crawl type of coast in traffic should be fine.

That's one thing I hate in newer cars, the dependence on the engine to keep the transmission properly lubricated.

[mcrews]

1. love the car!!! had 5 audis from 80s thru 90s.
2. thought we 'all agreed to never "coast in neutral- engine off w/ an automatic"?
the only advantage is if the rpms drop in neutral w/ engine on.

[Arragonis]

Thanks both - I'm happy to keep the engine running in Neutral - it is for longer coasts.

If I lift off the car slows with the transmission and then it starts to shift down. Great if slowing for a light (timing it) as it keeps the engine in DFCO however on longer downhill stretches or in queues for traffic I can use N and let the car roll under control of the brakes instead.

So engine on in N is OK - maybe ?

[RedDevil]

A DSG automatic is way different from ordinary automatics and CVTs; it is essentially a double manual gearbox with automated clutches and gear selection; alternating sides and load for the uneven and even gear numbers. I'd be amazed if that would have any issues a manual would not have. Then again, I'm no expert.

Maybe better to play it safe and install an auxiliary oil pump for the transmission for long EOC coasts Engine on coasting should be fine no matter what.

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by RedDevil

A DSG automatic is way different from ordinary automatics and CVTs; it is essentially a double manual gearbox with automated clutches and gear selection; alternating sides and load for the uneven and even gear numbers. I'd be amazed if that would have any issues a manual would not have. Then again, I'm no expert.

Maybe better to play it safe and install an auxiliary oil pump for the transmission for long EOC coasts Engine on coasting should be fine no matter what.

It's not a DSG - Tiptronic. I think the Audi "version" of DSG is called S-tronic. There is also (confusingly) Multitronic which is a CVT. S-tronic is the best, Tiptronic the most reliable and Multitronic the smoothest - from what I have read so far.

EDIT - Tiptronic is a normal 6sp Auto with a torque consumer but will flappy paddles added.

[slowmover]

First tank (well 3/4 tank) - about 30% city and the remainder motorway at limit + 10/15 MPH as we were in a hurry. So under "EPA" (ECE combined really) by 20%, going to take some time to recover On the plus side it handled 4 of us + dog + luggage in comfort through the monsoon that is Cumbria. About 500 miles in 2 days - which is why we bought it in the first place.

Looks good. The maintenance/repairs would be of more concern to me as well. The rest of this you know, but . . . .

The F150 comparison is worth exploring

Will your trips include roads where long stretches are similar to our Interstates? That's where the cruise control and a slightly lower travel speed really pay off with an otherwise high cpm vehicle on essentially non-stop highways in my 18-wheeler experience, not just personal vehicles.

Trip plan for best use of needed rest breaks, food, fuel, etc. Legs to accomplish, not the total distance to be minded . . and leave earlier, too (on at least one trip where "knowing" the lowest fuel burn for later comparative purposes is the point).

Weigh that thing as well. Solo, and loaded for a trip. Each wheel position. Imbalances really show up at highway speeds in changed steering, etc.

How heavy can you go and how much roof load? The point to such a vehicle is to use it to its maximum . . learning what that is and how well it does is part of ownership. I can load my truck with over 450-kg before it starts to trend downwards in mpg in the South Central US, for example. Living in hurricane country tends to keep that set of related thoughts high, but I'd put any vehicle through the same paces. Few around here do: what mpg at what speed with maximum load?

With an understanding of my true fuel costs (and keeping to FE principles) being able to predict fuel costs (cents-per-mile) is one business reckoning that works for the private owner. All the more so when the vehicle is being used to recommended limits. It is what one is paying for, after all.

The ton-mile calculation

Or, one might say that with any vehicle high mpg is really nothing more than a stunt where the vehicle is in no way being used well.

Besides, as in line with concerns about reliability, I would rather know NOW -- at my leisure -- if tire/wheel weight ratings are par with vehicle limits, and whether transmission, etc, were up to the job.

.