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Old 05-27-2008, 03:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Just confirming - warmer air on EFI

From the looks of the posts on warm air intake on an EFI engine (such as my '89 metro)... it does not result in a significant increase in mpgs. Is that correct?

Just wondering if I should disconnect the ducting currently in place from the passenger-side wheel-well to the air-filter housing or not.

Based on what I've read, it doesn't look as though this would help me any in my EFI engine.

Sound about right?

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Old 05-27-2008, 04:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I've been looking at this too, and I think the concensus is that you have to try it yourself and see what happens. I think some cars can have hotter air without retarding timing but others retard with a WAI canceling any benefits.

My Neon has a warm air intake stock pulling air from the middle of the engine bay, the scangauge tells me this tends to be 50F higher than ambient on the highway. I was thinking of ducting it so the intake pulls through the rad directly probably making the intake temp 90 or 100F over current temps. I'll have to collect some data on the ignition timing, rpm, TPS, and current temps and then try the switch to hotter air.
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Old 05-28-2008, 02:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyIan View Post
I've been looking at this too, and I think the concensus is that you have to try it yourself and see what happens.
Precisely. It requires testing to each engine's ECU mapping to gain a perspective. Most brands differ, so it's up to the user to test hot, warm, and cold air for FE changes. The A-B-A method is preferred, as this method insists on comparing the the change vs. baseline, under similar conditions, and are reproducible. Essentially the "Scientific Method" is what sets us apart from "quick fixes" and scams.

If this is done, we encourage sharing of the results

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Old 05-28-2008, 08:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirKeats View Post
From the looks of the posts on warm air intake on an EFI engine (such as my '89 metro)

Just wondering if I should disconnect the ducting currently in place from the passenger-side wheel-well to the air-filter housing or not.
That was the first part of my weight reduction program

I removed the hose, the adapter on the cleaner housing, and all the ducting from the fender well. I cannot say if this made anything bettor or not because I simply don't notice, but the engine sounds better in my opinion.

I found a video about this. Here you go.......................

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