10-08-2011, 05:04 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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My battery came in from lithium moto.
I bought the biggest one he offers. 11.5Ah, 4.4lb, 550cca
Test #1 sitting voltage: after sitting in a cool room all morning its sitting at 14.5V according to my fluke 123 scopemeter. Not sure what to think of this, it was unexpected. I am slightly doubting compatability with as standard "12v" (14.5v) charging system. I have seen a mod that can be done to AC delco alternators to bump the voltage up, may need to do this.
Test #2 I will weigh it because the web site says it weights 4.4lb but it feels a little heavier. Ether way its less than 1/3 the size and a lot lighter than the lead acid it replaces.
Test #3 hook it to a standard CCA tester and see what happens.
Test #4 will be to put it in the camaro and see if it starts up and put an ampmeter in line with the battery to see if it takes a charge. Thinking about finely breaking down and buying a fluke amp clamp meter, that way I dont have to install an inline amp meter.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
Last edited by oil pan 4; 10-08-2011 at 05:35 PM..
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10-10-2011, 02:35 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Battery weight is with in spec.
The CCA test was interesting. Auto zone tested it for me, they said it put out 460 CCA @ 13.75v.
It seems to take a charge in the normal 14 to 14.5 volt range after a few load tests.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-20-2011, 06:38 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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The lithium battery starts my car just fine.
I have a gear reduction starter so I am sure that helps.
The battery voltage doesn't really drop much below 12 volts when cranking.
This mod works out pretty well because now I have an air intake running where the lead acid battery use to be and the lithium is being relocated to the back seat.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-20-2011, 07:09 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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DieselMiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
This mod works out pretty well because now I have an air intake running where the lead acid battery use to be and the lithium is being relocated to the back seat.
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Perhaps you need to read this thread or at least look at the picture before thinking about moving a lithium ion pack into your passenger compartment.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post266319
Somehow I don't think you have a computer handling the charging to do it safely. Keep in mind even with one these things can still go off.
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10-20-2011, 11:32 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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A few things:
Lithium Ion is not the same as LiFePO4, the latter being far more stable.
Li batteries have far better cca than lead acid.
Li batteries might need a warming feature when in cold climates.
AGM might be a good compromise, both in price and cold weather operating.
Li cells are 3.4-3.7V, so 4 in series should get you proper voltage for a car.
Most deep-cycle lead acid batteries are only 60-80 Ah.
Lead acid (even deep cycle) shouldn't be drained more than 50% depth of discharge.
Li batteries can safely be drained up to 70-80% depth of discharge.
Li batteries should be kept in a hard container so they don't deform during charging.
A BMS for a 4-cell Li battery is a waste, in my opinion.
If you're worried about killing the battery, just get the 10V low voltage disconnect.
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10-21-2011, 02:56 AM
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#27 (permalink)
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DieselMiser
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Lithium Ion Phosphate batteries (LiFePO4) still have the potential to explode as in the attached picture. The batteries in this picture were the latest Lithium Ion Phosphate from Panasonic being charged and managed with a computer control system. Panasonic is a very reputable manufacture of all forms of batteries. This team was one of the few that had shown to Panasonic that their battery management system was sophisticated enough and took appropriate safety measures to be allowed to use these batteries.
In all forms of lithium ion batteries there is the potential for metal filaments to form between the anode and cathode. Once these filaments short circuit (usually but not exclusively during charging) the batteries discharge and self heat. They can self heat to the point that exothermic chemical reactions take place inside and thus explode.
No matter what precautions are taken, even when done by professionals, there are risks with this form of battery technology. The only safe way to use them is to plan for them to fail catastrophically and take appropriate measures to deal with that. DO NOT place a sizable lithium ion battery pack in the passenger compartment or where a person is likely to be exposed to it. DO NOT place it over a fuel tank or near a fuel line.
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10-21-2011, 06:03 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Lithium batterys dont like extreme hot and cold like under the hood or in the car during a very cold night.
The battery is in a 50 cal ammo can, sealed with a vent to the out side. It also has a painless wiring battery disconnect switch and fork lift battery quick disconnect.
This is dont for a few reasons, my car likes to drain batteries if left connected over the course of a few weeks, I want to be able to pull the battery on cold nights or in the event of a battery failure.
You think I just set the battery on the back seat and wired it in or what?
Thats not my style.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-24-2011, 07:56 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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DieselMiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
You think I just set the battery on the back seat and wired it in or what?
Thats not my style.
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Well with some of the unsafe things people do/advocate on here it wouldn't surprise me. Glad your smart enough to know better.
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10-30-2011, 11:05 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Oil Pan,
If I am reading right, the battery you bought is made of A123 cells. These are the same cells which are used in the DeWalt 36 volt battery packs. These cells have a charge level of 3.6Volts/cell and shortly after using(if not being constantly charged) slip down to a 3.3V operating level. I used them on my electric bike for a couple years. They do not like go below 2V/cell. I have revived a couple that did so, but A123 says that can shorten the life span on the cell.
I can tell you that those cells will take a beating. I used the same two battery packs to go back and forth to work for well over a year before they started feeling a little weak. It was five years ago when I began riding the bike. I still use the battery packs with the drill and they still work well for that function.
As for safety. ANY battery can explode. If a lead acid is outgassing a bit and catches a spark BOOM!! There is however a video floating around Youtube of a drill being put through and A123 cell with only minor smoke being created. No explosion.
Good luck with the battery pack.
JJ
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