MG Midget + Geo Metro 3cyl = MGeo

[Frank Lee]

I ran into similar factors many, many moons ago when I did my second "non-stock" engine swap (#1: Corvair into VW): Toyota engine + trans into '64 Triumph Spitfire.

For one thing, that rear axle ratio was extremely high, so even though the Toyota 5-speed trans had a decent top gear ratio, I always wanted to reach for "another" gear when it was transplanted into the much lighter, smaller, more aero Triumph.

There wasn't room for really big tires, but I went oversize as much as possible, which must have helped a tiny increment, but was still woefully inadequate.

Then there was the wimpiness of the Triumph rear end itself. Even though I didn't engage in hooliganism, I found myself sourcing and replacing twisted-off stub axles from the crap Triumph diff. I found that I didn't enjoy that job, and dreamt of putting the Toyota rear axle in there, but that would have required major surgery i.e. frame, pan, and body... and it was becoming clear to me that the Spitfire, in spite of it's sexy styling, was a P.O.S.

[robchalmers]

WOW that three potter is HUGE!!!!!!

I grew up with the a-series in mini's, metros (BL/rover ones ) Minors, Allegros Maestros and of course Midgets - Dad's Spectre white SWA '65 1293 abingdon spec and Uncles '67 teal blue 1310 RWA abingdon
and I'm amazed at the size of the 3pot'uki compared to the 4cylinder A that one's a long crank too!

Nice to see a midget getting back on the road! personally if it was over here, I'd prob got for a 105bhp 1.4 16v MPI with a sierra MT75 cogbox. That and running a mega-jolt and Mega Squirt

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Seriously!? ARG. That was Ben's job.

Please PM me your address and I'll send it myself, tomorrow.

Darin

It was June - feels so long ago. Anyway PM sent.

Originally Posted by robchalmers

WOW that three potter is HUGE!!!!!!

I grew up with the a-series in mini's, metros (BL/rover ones ) Minors, Allegros Maestros and of course Midgets - Dad's Spectre white SWA '65 1293 abingdon spec and Uncles '67 teal blue 1310 RWA abingdon
and I'm amazed at the size of the 3pot'uki compared to the 4cylinder A that one's a long crank too!

Nice to see a midget getting back on the road! personally if it was over here, I'd prob got for a 105bhp 1.4 16v MPI with a sierra MT75 cogbox. That and running a mega-jolt and Mega Squirt

A-series, Metros, All-aggros - happy days.

If I didn't have my BGT then an original Mini Cooper would be in my garage.

[robchalmers]

Now the kids are in boosters, i've been trying to win the missus round to the idea of another mini. She used to love my champaign beige City E ( 1308 short throw, stage 5 head kent scatter cam, duplex, HIF44 carb on a ram sock, electric fan, pointless ign -basically a surplus Autograss engine bolted into a '86 12" disc braked buzz bomb) - wish I never sold it!

She wouldn't let me have a midget - I scared her with the speed of Dad's, that and steering-by-throttle.

sorry - OFF TOPIC

[Arragonis]

Steering by throttle in a Mini was ace, nice drift on a wet roundabout etc etc.

All of this worked well until that incident with the dry stone wall.

EDIT : My first one was hearing aid beige. 12 inch wheels with 1275GT style hubcaps, the later ones had those silvery centre caps.

Apologies - seriously off topic now.

Just a thought on the Midget project a single-carb A-series is just about as economical petrol non-FI engine as you can get, the twin carb ones are thirsty. How about a 998, 1098 (long stroke) or a 1275 with a single carb ? The MG Metro 1275cc engine has 70bhp standard and single carb. Combine that with a 5-speed or higher axle for economy. And they have a lumpy cam so they burble nicely.

Might be less hassle than sorting out new engine mounts etc.

[nimblemotors]

A carburator sucks!! And more than one sucks even more!!
The 1275 is iron and weighs 300lbs the G10 is aluminum and 150lbs.
The Suzuki G10 motor is about as long as the original 4-cyl tractor motor
that was in the car, but that is because the distributor and water outlet come out the back of the motor, adding another 6 inches to its length.

Originally Posted by Arragonis

Steering by throttle in a Mini was ace, nice drift on a wet roundabout etc etc.

All of this worked well until that incident with the dry stone wall.

EDIT : My first one was hearing aid beige. 12 inch wheels with 1275GT style hubcaps, the later ones had those silvery centre caps.

Apologies - seriously off topic now.

Just a thought on the Midget project a single-carb A-series is just about as economical petrol non-FI engine as you can get, the twin carb ones are thirsty. How about a 998, 1098 (long stroke) or a 1275 with a single carb ? The MG Metro 1275cc engine has 70bhp standard and single carb. Combine that with a 5-speed or higher axle for economy. And they have a lumpy cam so they burble nicely.

Might be less hassle than sorting out new engine mounts etc.

[Arragonis]

The SU's (especially the later HIF ones) aren't too bad for fuel, as far as a carb can go I suppose. Leyland claimed 80 MPG for their Metro HLE (1.0 A-Series 998 with carb) in the 80s. The MG Metro (single carb, same power as a Mini Cooper S) managed 40+mpg with care, tricky in a Cooper S.

Still the Metro (as in Suzuki) motor may be a better option if you have access to more of them Its just you have to change a load of stuff for FE ? High pressure piping, swirl pot etc. I tap from no experience of having done (or not done) this though.

[nimblemotors]

Been working on the car, and have took apart the front, and cut out all the metal that wasn't strictly necessary. Removed 20lbs of wiring, 30lbs of front support, and 30lbs of front body. Fenders are only 20lbs, so not sure I will save much weight using fiberglass. I will be getting a fiberglass hood,
and will probably fabricate a front body/bumper/grill that will be a bit different than the stock MG for better aerodynamics.

[jamesqf]

A suggestion for the hood & fenders. On my old one (owned in the '70s, and still missed) they'd been bolted into a single unit, which hinged at the front, and fastened with a couple of clips by the doors. Undo the clips, and it all swung forward for easy access. Pull two hinge pins and the headlight connectors, and you could take it away as a unit, leaving complete access to the engine.

[NHRABill]

Nice work looking forward to seeing it progress.