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Old 05-13-2013, 05:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Million mile car brainstorming (will explain how it's MPG related)

I'm aware this is ecomodder, and this may or may seem directly related, but I think it's indirectly related. I have an interest in exceptionally long vehicle life for a variety of reasons, including the fact that the longer something works the longer you can amortize out any relevant costs (say an expensive upgrade for mileage, or even if it's just an expense for some luxury it means you get the use of that for much longer obviously) and that apparently the amount of energy used in the original manufacturing of a vehicle is actually more than a typical vehicle uses in fuel during it's normal life! So whether one is concerned about ecological issues in general, or the lifetime pollution coming from a vehicle's entire existance, it's literally saving energy to make a vehicle stay in use for much longer - even if it isn't directly fuel.

-------------------------
BORING TEXT, SKIP ME! (if your already on the same mental page that is, read if you want to know why I want this)

I'm aware of plenty of things in favor of the 'disposible car' mentality that almost seems to be the norm though - new technologies change things, some things like safety upgrades are considered essential by some people to get the latest, some people get bored with what they have, certain critical changes can't be predicted (diesel unexpectedly more expensive than gasoline now in the US, future cars may well use CNG) and some people always want the latest and greatest. Needless to say average people probably won't care about the thread. But ecomodder is full of nonaverage people who care more about best mileage than how their car looks (funny aeromods) or the most simplicity of driving, so maybe there are others who think likewise to me here.

My own reasons are simple:
- I drive and have to drive alot more than normal people. Though this year is slow my average for years was 36,000 miles a year, and the future looks to be even busier. The reasons don't matter - family obligations, medical needs of relatives, long college commutes, etc, I only drive the minimum necessary, I just end up having to drive alot. I expect to put over a million miles on my next commuter car before I retire.
- I also like to keep cars for a long time, if it solves my needs today, unless my needs change I will have no problem driving the same car 20 years later. I care nothing about 'style' or similar, I actually like the familiar. What I want is solving problems - the minimum total out of pocket lifetime cost for the problem of needing 4 wheels and a seat, where I know any quirks, and there's no surprises of finding out some new car had some manufacturing defect that turns up 3 years later type stuff.
- Once I get used to working on what I have I don't really want to change it, i'm used to how to change brakes, or oil, or have done the clutch before, and it's easier to do the same job that i've done before.
- I know exactly the full history of what I have once I have it so there are no surprises.
- Complicated things like custom engine swaps and other mods pay for themself alot better if the project is used for 20 years, instead of 2 years. Ultra careful part selection pays for itself/hundreds of hours of research and careful decision making.
- Even if I don't drive it a million miles, I expect it to pay for itself well before that, and to be reliable and efficient enough to at least not need any replacement/no forcing me to buy a car because my old one is failing. It's only like if I come into money suddenly and don't have to worry about every last mpg and such.

I'm hoping whatever next cars, and car projects I do, will probably be the last cars I ever even buy if I do it right. Thus I can justify alot of research because the problem solving will be with me the rest of my adult life in all likelihood. Even if I lost it in a car crash i'd keep the design blueprints and say CAD of special pieces so I could redo it from scratch if needed.

-----------END SELF INDULGENT SPIEL FOR THOSE WHO NEEDED TO KNOW WHY, REAL INFO NOW

Okay. So what things can be done to actually make a car last EXCEPTIONALLY long, while also minimizing the total lifetime cost one spends all up - initial purchase, all modifications, all fuel used over it's life, and all maintenance costs over it's life?


Just as a double reminder - the goal here is primarily reducing total money spent over the entire life of the car. Not finding ways to blow money on things that don't pay for themself. Working on the car myself is one of the best ways to save money, but reducing recurring maintenance hassles goes hand in hand since most of us have other things we'd rather do with our time.


This post was actually inspired by reading this http://www.aera.org/ep/EPQ4-2011/index.html start on page 50, for an article on deep cryogenic treatments, because it was something i'd heard of, but hadn't read more about, which seems to change alot of things, which makes me want to see what OTHER technologies and strategies will be out there for very long life.

Apparently cryogenically treating brake rotors and pads makes them last 3-7x longer, so not only do you save the money of not buying more parts, there's less labor and hassle of having to buy more as well. Even if I can change things myself for cheap with those autozone warranted pads and such, i'd still rather do it once and be done with it for awhile. I wonder if a clutch would see longer life? Hmm...

Cryogenic treatments of gears and gearsets seems to increase both strength and wear life - it's possible the pulse and glide lifestyle would be harder on gears than steady state cruising so that's probably a good idea. Might not be an issue for people only driving 100,000 miles but if I want to go a million miles it seems to be a given. I don't know if there are any downsides.. brittleness? I'd love to know more for sure. It could well be applied to other moving parts like differential gears or CV joints if wear is usually what forces their eventual replacement. It could be applied in the engine itself to various parts - perhaps even cryoed engine blocks and rings and bearings would last longer? I'd love to hear if anyone here has knowledge of cryo treatments or scientific studies specifically, the above article is the only one I have so far otherwise.


I also remember from years of reading hot rod type magazines about alot of technologies which are normally used in cutting edge race engines due to expense and needing every little edge, not so often used on street engines, but which may be worth doing for a literal million mile planned engine.

For instance the various coating technologies which has risen over the last decade or two for engines. Everything from low friction coatings, to oil repelling coatings (things like treating a crankshaft weights, so it sheds the oil readily), to rust preventatives, to thermal barrier coatings which can improve efficiency slightly, decrease catastrophic dangers from detonation, or help component parts exposed to excessive heat like exhaust manifolds and turbochargers last alot longer. Anyone with more specific knowledge of these technologies and their application to either MPG or long life engines is welcome to chime in - i'm mostly familiar with them as concerning horsepower which is not the same thing.


Exotic materials can sometimes be justified in places where parasitic loss is alot, or maybe ultimate lifespan justifies it - though i'm not sure what offhand would justify it. Alot of things in cars will last 60-100,000 miles - i'd rather not be changing that 15 times over the life of the car though. I'm told a titanium exhaust weighs half what stainless steel does and should essentially last "forever".

Blueprinting and balancing engines has been done since at least world war 2 - the more precise the tolerances are the better it runs, the benefits are fairly small for power vs the cost, but probably would justify for efficiency. I'm sure it would pay for itself.

Synthetic oils or/and more often oil changes are open for discussion, but so are other alternative lubrication solutions - for instance i've heard about those "toilet paper" bypass filtration systems which allegedly keep the oil so clean you don't even need to change oil anymore, just periodically top off a quart when you change the TP roll which also tops off the additives (that otherwise don't last forever) which seems to work great. Oil changes become a nontrivial expense when done more than usual, oil analysis goes hand in hand though to track what is happening inside the engine as well and to possibly indicate early warning signs of problems.

I'm told bobistheoilguy.com is the go to place for such lubrication discussions - and I plan to eventually. Oil, oil additives, bypass filtration, etc. I'm going to consider this especially important since i'm eyeing running SVO fuel and i've read multiple studies that SVO corrupts the lubrication oil causing things like sticking rings and enhanced wear and such. A million miles on SVO could be extra challenging but i'm hoping to find out how to do it and share what I learn experimenting with anyone wanting to know. (I hope to start tracking with oil analysis in straight SVO work vehicles to see what happens there before committing to that in the commuter I mean since i've read so many studies suggesting SVO ends up being an engine killer otherwise)


That's my laundry list of things i've scribbled notes on so far, can you expand on any area, or offer leads for new areas of research that I haven't yet mentioned? Do you know any great informational websites or forums where these technologies are talked to more, the "go to" places for those interested in the topic?

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Old 05-13-2013, 06:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The 5th car my parents bought was a '85 Honda Civic, and it lasted longer than their 4 previous cars combined. It was a good car. I bought it from them when it was 7 years old and kept it for almost 12 years since, until rust had taken so much of the structure that it had no chance of ever passing the MOT again. Considering it has spent a reasonable part of its life at the shore line, often getting covered in salty soot from the inbound gale winds that killed other cars in a year or 3, it was a monument of resilience.
Yet, comparing it to the cars you can get now, it is an old-timer. Worst of all, survival chances in a collision would be ... not good.

My wife had a '86 Golf Diesel which I took to use after the Civic's MOT demise. One day a lease punk cut me and slammed the brakes and the poor Golf, not having ABS, inevitably slid against the towing hook of that @$$#0&€. The towing hook went right through my front bumper, grille, metal plating and only met some kind of resistance when it met the radiator. When we pulled the cars apart the ^&^%^had no damage at all, while my headlights were facing each other...
I realized that the Golfs crumpling zone started at my feet rather than anywhere in front.
(At home I was able to bend everything back into place with my bare hands... and hang the remains of the front bumper and grille with some duct tape. I'm a biker too, I know the drill )
Bought a '98 Nissan Almera after that, then a '11 Honda Insight. Sold the Nissan in perfect working order, just because I got wary of the fuel and repair bills.

I dumped the Golf because I did not feel safe any more. It had no value for years so I was running it depreciation free. I just felt that even biking was safer than driving that.
I dumped the Almera with the calculator in hand, but aware that I replaced a car that only got a 2 star collision rating with one that has 5 stars. And so far I've read stories of several people that had collisions in an Insight, but none of them was seriously hurt. I know, the deceased don't ventilate their opinion, but even so I was impressed.

I see a lot of cars ending their life not to general wear but to collision damage or economical incompetence. Are you really willing to keep something on the road that is both costing you money and about to kill you when you hit something or get hit?
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Not sure how that post helps, where did I say my goal was to drive a deathtrap? That's why I put in the long "boring text" spiel, which I thought I wouldn't even have to, but even putting it in didn't seem to prevent a nonuseful post. :- /

Major safety strides were made in the late 90's to early 2000's - very little has improved since then. By definition. ABS and airbags became standard everywhere, and unless the insurance industry tests and government mandates change the safety requirements from 35mph frontal, offset, side crashes like they currently have, and start testing at say 40mph - nothing is going to improve either. That is unlikely to happen until every car gets 5 star ratings for everything, and even then there will be resistance by the industry, who to be blunt is facing bigger challenges trying to meet fuel efficiency requirements (forcing less weight) and emissions requirements, so that I doubt safety requirements will even ALLOW a much safer car to be sold anytime soon.


If i'm really concerned about safety engineering, i'll start a separate thread, probably on a safety related board. I'll investigate roll cages and 5 point harnesses. I have nothing against safety upgrades of any sort. There are improvements that can be done right now to existing cars to make them safer than things you can buy, because you get the safety that the laws require, and no more, for common market cars.

You're probably trying to be helpful, but i'm trying to keep this specifically about long life car modifications and research. Statistically motorcycles are far more dangerous than any car but I neither put down motorcyclists over that nor do I plan to rule out motorcycle commuting myself in the future. Heck statistically i'm far more likely to be killed by doctors doing everything right than I am in a car accident. : P My best safety preparations I can currently do is to keep a car in good tune, with good brakes and tires, not falling apart/rusting to pieces, having driver training and being an extremely aware driver never caught in "condition white".
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Factoring in the value of your time, I don't think that some of the preventative stuff you mentioned would be worth the investment. For example, rotors, for me, last a long time, so I wouldn't bother pulling them off and driving them across town for chryo-treating when it's ~$30 to buy a new one.

If, after 300k miles, the motor finally blew up, then it probably would be worth doing some work on the internals with the new one, since it's already out of the car and can be torn apart. Polishing casting marks off the crank and general blueprinting stuff would totally make sense to do, probably as well as fresh gaskets for oil pan, cam chain cover, etc, that are prone to leaking.

Best thing to do, I think, is just keeping up with the factory prescribed maintenance. Fluids, grease the bearings, replace worn suspension components and engine mounts. Extra, I like to put dialectic grease into most electrical plugs that I take apart.

Hmmm... RedDevil mentions the rust... cleaning leaves out of vents and repairing any spots where the paint or underbody coating flake off are probably a really good idea. Inspecting the car every couple years is probably all that's needed here.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stillsearching View Post
apparently the amount of energy used in the original manufacturing of a vehicle is actually more than a typical vehicle uses in fuel during it's normal life!
That may not actually be true. EG:

Quote:
Honda's own life cycle analysis suggests that 78% of a Honda car's total CO2 output is produced during the driving of the vehicle. The remaining 22% is emitted during "production, resource procurement, transportation, service, and disposal".

source
While the quote refers to CO2 output, it's reasonable to assume that correlates to energy consumption.

Which is why it sometimes makes sense from a total energy efficiency perspective to ditch a guzzler for a more efficient new car (depending on how much of a guzzler it is).
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I too am interested in using a car well beyond the "normal life". i maintain my car to the T, synthetic oil every 3,000 miles, only premium gas, fix it when it breaks, dont put off untill its to late. drive gingerly
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Then simply get a Tempo and be done with it!

I have an '84 with 360,000 miles on it...
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I too am interested in using a car well beyond the "normal life". i maintain my car to the T, synthetic oil every 3,000 miles, only premium gas, fix it when it breaks, dont put off untill its to late. drive gingerly
You are wasting a lot of good oil. The premium does nothing for longevity either.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Lee View Post
You are wasting a lot of good oil. The premium does nothing for longevity either.
premium gas is recommended for my car and many do not use premium when it is actually is recommended resulting in possible engine problems.

as far as oil i am aware you can go near 10,000 on mobil one oil per change, i know used oil analysis shows 3,000 is nothing for mobil one. I am anal about 3,000 mile intervals. just the way i have always done it and how my father did it too. i can get synthetic oil for 4$ a quart for castrol 5w-30 synthetic. guess what, my car needs 0w-40 which at my cost is 7.65. it costs me 38.71$ for piece of mind. worth it to me
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My Civic owners manual says change the oil & filter every 10,000 miles. I use Mob 1 5w-20 on it and buy Purolator Gold filters. Fram filters are crap. It is due for brake fluid change out, something most folks neglect.

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