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Old 07-27-2012, 09:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It is old tech, but nicely implemented. Would be cool if they could offer the hub motors as part of a kit, where the buyer can buy only the vehicle-specific hub motor and source the rest of the components elsewhere, or buy all the parts from one source.

Not sure if the estimated $3K cost is including everything or it is the hub motor only.

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Old 07-28-2012, 02:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for sharing the article, but it annoys me at how little information it contained. All of that talking and no mention of how many HP the motors add.

Also, there is zero percent chance that the system can double the mpg of city driving. I actually get slightly better mpg in stop and go gridlocked traffic than steady 70mph freeway travel in my car (which says something about how the horrid gearing).
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Old 07-28-2012, 03:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Cool. Me love retrofit.

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Old 07-29-2012, 09:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The video that Darin posted later in this thread mentions 200ft/lbs of torque (per hub motor?).

Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5 View Post
Thanks for sharing the article, but it annoys me at how little information it contained. All of that talking and no mention of how many HP the motors add.

Also, there is zero percent chance that the system can double the mpg of city driving. I actually get slightly better mpg in stop and go gridlocked traffic than steady 70mph freeway travel in my car (which says something about how the horrid gearing).
Electric drivetrains are very efficient in city driving -- no idling and no warm up time and regenerative braking; but most of all they are about 85-90% efficient almost all of the time. And ICE only hits it peak efficiency at a narrow range of RPM, and that is still typically about 30%.

Apparently, the electric motors do not start until you use the ICE to get the car rolling. So, this is a lot like many e-bikes -- it is NOT tied into the accelerator pedal at all, and so it may not do regen, either. Still I think their claim of 2X the unassisted city mileage is plausible.
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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This looks similar to what the Poulsen hybrid people have been working on.

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Old 07-29-2012, 03:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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This looks similar to what the Poulsen hybrid people have been working on.

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But (maybe) in a stealthier package than Poulsen?!?!?

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Old 07-29-2012, 03:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfg83 View Post

But (maybe) in a stealthier package than Poulsen?!?!?
I like this design a lot more then the Poulsen because it's replacing existing parts, like the brake drum, and brake backer plate, with the motor instead of just adding more parts/weight on to the vehicle, why add a 2nd torque arm like the Poulsen has when the brake system is already designed to handle that load, I imagine that a system like this is 100 pounds lighter then a Poulsen hub motor and that lower weight is all unsprung weight, so while I don't agree with hub motors being the best solution this one seems to be a really good retrofit design that could have a low cost, it would be an added cost, but I bet if the brake drum was aluminum instead of cast iron and had a pressed in iron liner like Honda Insight brake drums have that the rotating weight could be kept on par with the stock weight, the the only added weight would be the magnetic coils on the brake backer.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I've thought about this since the day i read about hub motors for motorcycles!

But, for ease of operation, it would probably be a little easier and convenient (for me) to just convert my Tortion Beam axle to a live RR drive axle and strap on a motor to the input shaft. use the existing frame tortion beam bolt mounts, and make another (2 one on each frame beam) and make 4-link suspension. or Honda CRV rear-end/similar for(independant suspension).. fill the trunk with batteries, and use a lever for consistant power/speed output when in traffic jams, parking lots, city driving. Use ICE (FF) for everything else...

I estimated less than $1,000 for the whole thing, batteries/motor would be the most expensive, most of the controllers/electronics could come from a golf cart or something 36/48v max anyways. Junk yards always have a hidden jem for parts practically free
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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would it be better to say

mild, plug in, hybrid
since the OE engine is running at all times....?

well i know some of us would shut it off at times.
but would the avereg person shut it down and go with out brake VAC, P\S ect
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Old 08-09-2012, 12:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trooper Tdiesel View Post
would it be better to say

mild, plug in, hybrid
since the OE engine is running at all times....?

well i know some of us would shut it off at times.
but would the avereg person shut it down and go with out brake VAC, P\S ect
For us hypermilling fanatics, the only way would be to drive with the engine off no doubt. Were usually familiar with EOC or similar situations...

I dont think the average driver who would drop $3000 for "bolt on" kit would know what would happen if the engine would be off, therefor it would just be left running, in neutral or something (i suppose) when in electric mode. The killer part would be someone who's not familiar shifting from N to D, while at speed and not knowing how there car reacts to those types of behaviors or possibly what to do afterwards when the batteries are drained.<this could certainly throw ppl off of the idea, when they have to take a little time and "learn" something new.

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