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Old 03-03-2011, 02:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwebb View Post
buy an old truck / suv / large American rear wheel drive car to use as your tow beast and drive your geo the rest of the time

it will be cheaper and better and you will have a happier life .

I agree.
With what you are doing, even a downsize truck (toyota, s10, ranger, etc) would work better, and SAFER, as towing any Geo out there is going to excede the tow rating, brakes and suspension of a Metro.

Is saving / making money worth the safety risk (to you and EVERYONE on the road around you)?

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Old 03-03-2011, 02:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Everything I've read about ITBs and bike carbs on small cars leads this: Better top end power, possibly less low end torque (depends on runner lengths), and in the case of carbs-- far worse fuel economy and with webbers, far more tweaking when the weather changes.

If you must stick with Geos for towing (don't just think about the engine, think about how safely it can handle and STOP that weight), there is simply no replacement for displacement. The 4 banger is your next step.

Beyond that, just find a 4 banger S10 or Ranger with a 5 speed.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
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^^^ carb's get worse? properly tuned I've noticed the exact opposite.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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EFI is always better at fuel economy, it's always self-tuning. You can only optimize a carb for certain conditions.

There's not a single car that I can think of (Bar the CRX HF when it was introduced, but the VX/HX do the same job with double the power) that had better fuel economy with a carb setup. And never have I heard of anyone downgrading a EFI car to carb for fuel economy, always the opposite.
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"All I know about music is that not many people ever really hear it. [...] But the man who creates the music is hearing something else, is dealing with the roar rising from the void and imposing order on it as it hits the air. What is evoked in him, then, is of another order, more terrible because it has no words, and triumphant, too, for the same reason. And his triumph, when he triumphs, is ours." -Sonny's Blues
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texanidiot25 View Post
EFI is always better at fuel economy, it's always self-tuning. You can only optimize a carb for certain conditions.

There's not a single car that I can think of (Bar the CRX HF when it was introduced, but the VX/HX do the same job with double the power) that had better fuel economy with a carb setup. And never have I heard of anyone downgrading a EFI car to carb for fuel economy, always the opposite.
my 84 rx7 would get 22hy 15-17city EFI, I switched to dual ITB style carbs with a good tune and would regularly get 30highway upper 20's city- EFI might be better because most people don't take the time to tune the car, also i'm talking specifically about EFI systems prior to 1995 at which point they pretty much got it right. before that i think you could do better with a simple carb and proper tune
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:10 PM   #16 (permalink)
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What you need is more engine. I suggest putting an axillary engine on the trailer that can push it uphill. Could be a motorcycle engine with a cvt, though buying an old mazda or toyota pickup would be much easier and sane.
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:44 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin View Post
my 84 rx7 would get 22hy 15-17city EFI, I switched to dual ITB style carbs with a good tune and would regularly get 30highway upper 20's city- EFI might be better because most people don't take the time to tune the car, also i'm talking specifically about EFI systems prior to 1995 at which point they pretty much got it right. before that i think you could do better with a simple carb and proper tune
OK, besides terrible Mazda setups that were introduced in the Reagan era... The RXs were not the epitome of reliable, efficient, or normal.
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:46 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texanidiot25 View Post
OK, besides terrible Mazda setups that were introduced in the Reagan era... The RXs were not the epitome of reliable, efficient, or normal.
Their efi systems were pretty similar to most rwd Japanese cars of the time but i wasn't saying carbs are best in all situations, and from what I've seen lighter 80s-90s cars can sometimes be more efficient with well tuned carbs


Quote:
Originally Posted by arcosine View Post
What you need is more engine. I suggest putting an axillary engine on the trailer that can push it uphill. Could be a motorcycle engine with a cvt, though buying an old mazda or toyota pickup would be much easier and sane.
he should just hook a remote throttle to the tow vehicle so it can help out uphills
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Last edited by Odin; 03-04-2011 at 12:03 AM..
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Old 03-04-2011, 09:56 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Lets put aside whether multiple carbs/TB will help low to mid range power issue .They have a few issues compared to single throttle plates .
1) mpg will generally go down, so will the rate of intake vacuum to throttle position (unless you find some really small TB body's ) which means not as good low end torque .
2) tuning up and keeping a nice smooth idle and good low end is compounded by the multiple TB plates , its very hard to keep them all in sync even with return springs for each TB linkage .I would say if OEM has an option then that may work better but if you have to make it all up you will probably have trouble here .
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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You need more torque not hp - hp is a function of maths :

hp = (lb/ft * rpm) / 5252

Torque is the twist your engine makes when you press the go pedal. To get more torque throttle bodies will not help much. Not even if you got superbike ones. Superbikes don't need much torque so they just rev higher.

To get more torque you have three choices in order of difficulty :

1. Buy / borrow / rent a tow barge - truck, car, whatever.
2. Add a turbo - turbo means more torque at lower engine speeds.
3. Convert to Diesel - unlikely to work unless you want to restrict yourself to ~50mph due to the lower redline (4K vs 6.5 in the Petrol)

If you go with 2 or 3 you will find the clutch is no longer your friend as it wasn't designed for the level of torque being produced. It also probably was not designed with towing either. 2 will also require reworking to the FI system and maybe some head work to reduce the compression ratio. Option 3 I think has only been done with a Kubota which is not a car engine and won't work well.

Go for 1, it makes sense.

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