My RV a true mileage efficiency challenge

[bestclimb]

Originally Posted by mozul

Also, get a mileage computer, ScanGauge or Ultragauge. That will help you with your technique.


Have fun!

This will help a lot however, being that it's a 94, it won't be obdii, so ultra and scan gauge are ruled out (Both require OBD2 and that was mandated in 96 for passenger vehicles) Your only option (and it is a good one) is an MPGuino if you have multi point Fuel injection.

[Geocritter]

Originally Posted by UltArc

The impression I am getting is that you want mods that will pay for themselves pretty quickly- so either super cheap mods, or super effective.

Some things that are dirt cheap, easy, and should make a difference...
-Deleting things that aren't needed
--take off a mirror if you don't need it, antennas, roof racks
I've already taken off the TV antenna. As for mirrors, I'd like bigger ones! Backing up one of these brutes can be stressful to say the least. I'll probably be investing in a backup camera next year. Most of the roof mounted stuff can't come off without major changes.
-Smooth wheel covers (election signs)
-Rear arch covers (election signs)
Rear arch? Do you mean rear fender skirts?
-Dropping unneeded weight (Do you have things you don't need?)
Dropping weight will be tough but I'm working on it. No granite counter tops, I never had that in my stx & brix home. As a geologist I know only too well how easily damaged it is.
--For example, if you had a granite countertop, is it worth the extra weight verse a basic plastic?
-Grille block (or partial- either way, easy to remove)
A grill block is worrisome, Holiday Ramblers are well built, but many RV's have small grills and suffer from engine compartments that get so hot spark plug wires get scorched and wiring melts
-Partial underbody
May work on that in the future, would a partial underbody shield like from the front bumper to the rear axle help?
-streamline your vehicle into the trailer/caravan (would be more costly)
-Test pulling the caravan flat vs on the trailer. Better or worse?
Can't pull the Caravan flat without expensive mods
-Warm Air Intake
-DEFINITELY an air dam
I'll have to research air dams
-start switching fluids to synthetic
I've been using synthetic fluids in my cars since 1996, I'm sold on synthetics!

One fantasy I have is an MP5 (or MPV) in a standard, setup to road trip in. You'd have a standard, could pull flat, and they are pretty cheap relative to other vans in its class. Another alternative is a estate. On past road trips, three of us have slept in a coupe (2002 Monte Carlo) over several nights. If you want more comfort, an estate would work great. Not hard to find a standard, better aero, would meet the needs you have shown so far. What comes to mind is the Subaru Outback/Legacy estate- which can be found pretty cheap (as low as 1,600 USD).
I've actually been thinking of a Mazda MPV, I also like the Subaru's but I'm not interested in the full time AWD. I wish they made them in 4WD with lockout hubs. I've found over the years that front wheel drive will get me through most any road condition I'd actually choose to drive in.

Just some ideas.

Thanks for the ideas, I'll be looking into implementing many of them.
Steve

[Geocritter]

Originally Posted by bestclimb

This will help a lot however, being that it's a 94, it won't be obdii, so ultra and scan gauge are ruled out (Both require OBD2 and that was mandated in 96 for passenger vehicles) Your only option (and it is a good one) is an MPGuino if you have multi point Fuel injection.

I saw the MPGuino, fortunately my son's a computer tech, actually a network engineer. When I see him over Thanksgiving I'll talk to him about helping me to install an MPGuino system. Heck, I taught him how to do brake jobs, clutch jobs, and swap engines, I figure he can help me with this.
Steve
BTW are you a rock climber? I tried it about 15 years ago as part of my middle-age crazy period. After two years of climbing I decided that even if I was 30 years younger I'd still be lousy at it.

[UltArc]

Originally Posted by Geocritter

I've already taken off the TV antenna. As for mirrors, I'd like bigger ones! Backing up one of these brutes can be stressful to say the least. I'll probably be investing in a backup camera next year. Most of the roof mounted stuff can't come off without major changes.
-Smooth wheel covers (election signs)
-Rear arch covers (election signs)
Rear arch? Do you mean rear fender skirts?
+Yepp!!
-Dropping unneeded weight (Do you have things you don't need?)
Dropping weight will be tough but I'm working on it. No granite counter tops, I never had that in my stx & brix home. As a geologist I know only too well how easily damaged it is.
+That was just an example, if you're like the geologists I've known, they know what they need and what they don't (since they are usually carrying it around with them).
-Grille block (or partial- either way, easy to remove)
A grill block is worrisome, Holiday Ramblers are well built, but many RV's have small grills and suffer from engine compartments that get so hot spark plug wires get scorched and wiring melts
+That's why I stress the importance of it coming on and off. Even if it's just used for winter months. Some have good ideas on vented blocks that allow some more air in, but still help aero.
-Partial underbody
May work on that in the future, would a partial underbody shield like from the front bumper to the rear axle help?
+Yepp, it's more important to cover the front than rear, I should be more clear, to start working from the front to rear. Especially with an underbody, as working rear to front (as in pieces over time) can become like a parachute.
-streamline your vehicle into the trailer/caravan (would be more costly)
-Test pulling the caravan flat vs on the trailer. Better or worse?
Can't pull the Caravan flat without expensive mods
+Sounds better for finding a FF standard estate.
-Warm Air Intake
-DEFINITELY an air dam
I'll have to research air dams
-start switching fluids to synthetic
I've been using synthetic fluids in my cars since 1996, I'm sold on synthetics!

I've actually been thinking of a Mazda MPV, I also like the Subaru's but I'm not interested in the full time AWD. I wish they made them in 4WD with lockout hubs. I've found over the years that front wheel drive will get me through most any road condition I'd actually choose to drive in.

You could always disable an axle- and what would be bad about the AWD? I think even with it, you'll see better fuel economy- and have the opportunity for EOC. I'm sure you know your needs, FF is better for you than AWD, I was thinking your time spent traveling for short(er) trips could go to more aggressive places w/ AWD, or at least, not be as limited as with the Caravan.

[Frank Lee]

Trust me, in an RV YOU NEED YOUR MIRRORS.

Engine swaps The guy wants to see the country, not a chassis from underneath.

[bestclimb]

Originally Posted by Geocritter

BTW are you a rock climber? I tried it about 15 years ago as part of my middle-age crazy period. After two years of climbing I decided that even if I was 30 years younger I'd still be lousy at it.

No the handle comes from flying, each wing has specific airspeeds that results in the best rate or angle of climb.

The Guino is pretty easy to install, 4 wires. one to an always hot 12v source, one to ground, one to the fuel injector signal wire, and one to the vehicle speed sensor wire. If you search the forum you may find someone who has installed on on a similar era ford truck or van and that may put you in the right direction.

[elhigh]

Geo,

I saw your question re: a partial belly pan. I think any amount of belly pan is going to help. There's so much acreage under those things and it's generally just greeblies and bits out in the wind. You can cover up most of it, I think, with impunity. Be careful around the driveshaft and exhaust lines, obviously.

I haven't done any pan work on my truck, but when I do I intend to start at the rear and work my way forward. A natural stopping place will be directly abaft the rear axle, then pick things up again ahead of it, etc. If I can do any kind of fairing work to smooth the airflow around the axle, I'll do that. But I bet if you take a peek at your underside, it probably looks approximately as smooth as the Grand Canyon.

+1 to what Frank said about mirrors - I drive an Isuzu NPR at work sometimes and that thing is only half the length of your rig. If I didn't have mirrors on it, I just wouldn't drive it. But there are lots of kits out there for adding backup mirrors to just about anything, can you bolster your existing mirrors with a few of those? Maybe you could improve the rearward view to minimize your mirror area and still have a good picture around you.

[Geocritter]

Here is a picture of my RV, as can be seen it actually does have some streamlining, at least compared to today’s RV’s. In the future I’ll probably be removing the roll-down awning.

Here is the grill I mentioned earlier. Because these large RV’s have such a problem with excessive engine compartment heat I’m reluctant to cover the grill at all, though I may try in the cooler months.
Steve

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Geocritter

Here is the grill I mentioned earlier. Because these large RV’s have such a problem with excessive engine compartment heat I’m reluctant to cover the grill at all, though I may try in the cooler months.

You could make an adjustable grille block.

[UltArc]

This may sound crazy, but what if you attached a grille shield to that metal bar, and it blocked air from going into the grille, but did not seal it?

I don't know if that would allow air to still circulate while reducing air going in- not as hot, and not as much drag. I don't imagine it would create more frontal area or increase drag- but I'm sure a more educated individual can chime in on that idea.