new member 2007 Miles ZX40S

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by cbaker

Any advice on battery maintenance? I checked numbers today and from front to back it was
13.08
13.06
13.04
13.04
13.04
13.04
the voltmeter said 77.3, so it's off a volt, and was when I added up the old battery numbers.
Should I try and run the batteries down low before I charge, or does it matter?
Should I let the vehicle rest after my drive home before charging or just plug it in as soon as I get out?
Should I let it rest for a while after charging before I drive?
The numbers were higher when the batteries were brand new, like 13.23 or so. It could just be they are stabilizing. Or I damaged them somehow.
Sometimes my daily ride will only be 25 miles or so, and when I get home the voltmeter will be around 70v. I'm sure after they rest from the drive they come back up to at least 72 or so. I was wondering if since they are not drained, it might affect the length the charger runs.
Thanks

If they are floodies don't worry about it too much, mine are up to a half volt out of balance and there is nothing I can do about it (and their gel which is worse)

[cbaker]

I looked for this contactor, but I'm confused. Can you send a picture of the physical location on your vehicle? I might be able to trace things backwards if I knew for sure where it's located.

I was really more worried about my batteries' top end. It used to charge to 13.2x resting, now the top is 13.04 or so. I was worried about overcharging, but they seem to be undercharged. If they get too far out of balance, I'll just do the timer thing.
Thanks

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by cbaker

I looked for this contactor, but I'm confused. Can you send a picture of the physical location on your vehicle? I might be able to trace things backwards if I knew for sure where it's located.

I was really more worried about my batteries' top end. It used to charge to 13.2x resting, now the top is 13.04 or so. I was worried about overcharging, but they seem to be undercharged. If they get too far out of balance, I'll just do the timer thing.
Thanks

I doubt they are undercharged, unless you aren't allowing the charger to reach the needed voltage, etc. Also the stock chinese charger is complete junk, if you are using that especially with sealed or AGM batteries you need to watch it like a Hawk or it wants to overcharge them.

As to the voltage going down, you may be "overtaxing" them if the trend continues.

You need to avoid having them below 12v. Also remember that while you are driving no battery should drop below 10.5v at any time (even while accelerating) or you can damage a batttery that is not discharged.

My general experience is to avoid 12v deepcycles because I have had premature troubles with them, hopefully you have a good warranty on them if they are a bad batch.

Good Luck
Ryan

[Mark1801]

Originally Posted by cbaker

I looked for this contactor, but I'm confused. Can you send a picture of the physical location on your vehicle? I might be able to trace things backwards if I knew for sure where it's located.

I was really more worried about my batteries' top end. It used to charge to 13.2x resting, now the top is 13.04 or so. I was worried about overcharging, but they seem to be undercharged. If they get too far out of balance, I'll just do the timer thing.
Thanks

Checked my batteries for reference for you. I have no idea how old they are. Ive been charging them about once a week while the car is not running. They range from 12.58 to 12.53 with lowest also being the last in the rear. Heres a photo of battery label

For the view of the contactor you asked about, I zoom in over these next three images.
The first shows the drivers side of the engine compartment from the front of the car.
The contactor is behind the controller next to the batteries.

This is a little closer look at the location. The contactor has two large red wires with black rubber end caps near each other. and smaller red wire coming from top of image is from charger.

Heres a look if I hold my phone in the engine compartment behind it and take a photo towards the front of the car. The aux tabs are towards the bottom of the contactor. Two from the controller are connected in this photo on the left from this angle. One Keyswitch wire is removed from right side and not visible in this photo.

When checking yours be very careful when near this, of course, it is where the total voltage from the batteries wired in series is sitting, waiting to go somewhere, in my case sitting indefinitely for now.
Thanks,
Mark

[cbaker]

Yeah, our's look nothing alike. I can't seem to post a picture of mine. I don't see that little black box or the fuse array. I called the battery guy, and he said it was probably normal but to keep an eye on the numbers. Something overheated or something today. After being lucky enough to make every redlight on about a 5 mile run, I pulled into my parking lot and no power to the motor. I waited a sec and the motor just tried to turn and quit. I waited about 3 minutes and it worked and I pulled into the lot. I could put my hand on the motor and controller. The fan was on in the controller. I was running a little over 100 amps, and it was a hot afternoon. No problem on the way home so I'll just have to keep an eye on things.

[SeniorSell]

Ryan, I have a 2007 miles ZX40 with the larger 9hp 72V DC version motor. Curtis controller. We know that this motor will take 6,000 rpm for some time, not constant. That = about 42-45mph stuck in second gear. Bone stock at 25mph indicated is at or about 3,300 rpm. I read that field weakening is the quickest way to attain more speed but couldn't I also pull the controller and send it to Curtis and have them raise the RPM limit to say 5,500 rpm? My controller does not have a program port unlike our 2008 Vantage Vango P1000 curtis controller. Isn't this particular model limited by or controlled by the rpm the motor is looking at? I don't want to re-invent the miles mobile here because they are selling for $5000 all over for a 2008 or newer. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Dave Upton

[cbaker]

Well I took mine to the battery place last week and they pulled all the batteries and discharged and recharged them. The guy there said the front 2 discharged too quickly with his 75 amp discharger, even though when I checked them with my VOM the numbers were all around the same. It's much better and I'm not experiencing the overheating problem or limiting that was going on before so maybe it was low voltage and not the controller. His concern was that my onboard charger wasn't charging them up enough. He's checking to see if he has access to one that will work with the Miles, and I'm searching as well. I noticed the new models come with a Delta Q, but I have no idea which model. Any suggestions are appreciated
Thanks

[cbaker]

There were some powerpulse things attached that were on the van when I got it. I unhooked them on the recommendation of the battery place. After resting for over 12 hours all of my batteries are over 13.10. Maybe I dodged a bullet. I was concerned that I had damaged the batteries or controller or both.

[SeniorSell]

I have the 2007 miles 40ZX 72V DC, Mine was before the upgraded Curtis AC Controller and AC induction motor. The new Delta charger was installed greater than 2 years ago by the previous owner. The factory cheap china charger smoked his batteries and even though the car was in warranty and the part failed, Miles would not repair or send batteries or a new charger. It is my understanding Miles new the charger was junk before our cars ever got on the long boat. LOLS! I can't post the link to Delta because I am new. Google should get you there.

I don't recall the price but most golf cart shops sell them online. The part is delta-q 72V QuiQ charger (model #912-7200) On my Miles car they attached a larger computer type 12 volt fan to properly cool the smart charger as it sites under the back seat. There are vents under the seat as well. We have this charger in the miles and the Vantage P1000 EV Van. They work great, No problems and it can be programed for wet or gel type batteries by you, not the factory. It's not cheap, around $700 last I heard, but, neither are smoked batteries! The instructions are super easy to follow as well. Hope this helps, Dave

Originally Posted by cbaker

Well I took mine to the battery place last week and they pulled all the batteries and discharged and recharged them. The guy there said the front 2 discharged too quickly with his 75 amp discharger, even though when I checked them with my VOM the numbers were all around the same. It's much better and I'm not experiencing the overheating problem or limiting that was going on before so maybe it was low voltage and not the controller. His concern was that my onboard charger wasn't charging them up enough. He's checking to see if he has access to one that will work with the Miles, and I'm searching as well. I noticed the new models come with a Delta Q, but I have no idea which model. Any suggestions are appreciated
Thanks

[cbaker]

Thanks for the model number. I've searched it, but can't find a pdf with a schematic. I'll just email delta q and see if they will send me one. It looks easy, mine just has an ac input. One of the dc outs goes to the batteries, but the other one I'll have to trace. It might go to the voltage meter, or to some feature that keeps you from driving off when the charger is hooked up. The tranny swap is great for what I do. I did get the old 2nd gear up to 40+ mph a time or two going down a big hill. It just sounded like it was going to blow up, and actually limited the speed. Being able to throw it out of gear on the downhill parts of my route allows it to coast more freely. I just don't know if exactly what was causing the battery problems I've been having, so the charger is the first thing to explore. I'll try to post updates when I have them.
Thanks again