Official MPGuino preassembled now available

[racprops]

Well there was not much choice, I found that the unit is slightly smaller than a business card and about ½ a business card deep.

But I also found almost no plastic case the right size.. so I ended up with a slightly large one I knew I could cut is down.

Also I found many of the cases for sale had battery compartments so looked for a more plain box.

What I ended up with was a Serpac model # A-21.

With this (and any other’s) you still have to cut out a rectangle hold for the face and drill the three holes on top for the push buttons and figure out how to mount or hold the boards in place.

And how to mount this in/onto your car/dash…this case has slighly slopping sides so mounting it will be a little more fun.

I did not want to wait for a mail ordered cast so took what I could lay my hands on.

And as I like to mount my add on gauges (like my scan gauge…still useful in so many other ways..) under the over hang of my dash, I am thinking of desoldering the three buttons so that I can mount them on the face of the case for easier use.

Rich

[racprops]

Darn disreguard my earlier post, once I cut the Fry's box I ended up with the unit only filling about 60% and a lot of box blocking other things on my dash.

So I poped out to Radio Shack and found a great box that these fit into fine...Wll fine if you handy with a dremal and working plastic...

The one I got is part number 270-1802.

Now this is a tight fit and you have to clean out inside detail and make room, even the screw shafts need trimming.

If there is enought intrest and need I can do a photo lession.

Rich

[EXPIOWA]

I have thought about using one of these for about a year. Finding all of the wires should not be a problem but calibrating it for use on my 2.5L Pontiac engine has me a little confused. Does it come programmed?

[racprops]

Programed, yes, calibrated, no...

And it is a bare set of boards, so either you mount it behine a hole you make in your dash, or buy a project box and cut the box and mount it in the box.

You will also what to read this thread:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post133760

Rich

[Eddles]

Originally Posted by racprops

Sorry I always get a kick out who's/what is a import...

I am in Phoenix AZ. USA and to us/me a Vauxhall with a Iszuz motor is a car made somewere other than the USA (even if they do have a factory here...) and thus is called and considered a " Import..."

Rich

BTW I just remembered - the Astra isn't quite an import - the Saturn Astra is the same as the Vauxhall Astra (MK5) - however it's the next model after my Vauxhall Astra (MK4). Despite this, the Vauxhall Astra MK5 1.7 TDI uses the Circle L engine as does my MK4 1.7 TDI but I highly doubt the USA will use a Polish diesel engine! Also just as well, the MK5's Circle L uses common rail injection, while my MK4's Circle L has bog standard direct injection, so no help here anyway!

Originally Posted by racprops

OH OK and with a totally machinacal injector system???

If so there is no pulse to a injector for these to work on.

Rich

No. It has electronic injection - just that the actual metering is done in the fuel pump, not the injectors itself. After all, my engine can do DFCO - that's not possible with mechanical injectors. I just need to find the correct wire between the main computer and the injector computer - I'm just hoping it's pulsed. If it's not, I'm buggered.

Not quite sure how an diesel with totally mechanical injectors can emit less than 119g/km of CO2 anyway!

[ECONORAM]

I looked at this thread months ago, but was not sure if I wanted to pursue one of these or not. Will this work on my 2007 Dodge RAM? It is CAN bus, has an OBD II connector under the dash... But I think I could find the input wires fairly easily.
[edit] I was going to suggest Pelican might make a plastic case that will work, but I have not looked yet.

[Eddles]

Originally Posted by ECONORAM

I looked at this thread months ago, but was not sure if I wanted to pursue one of these or not. Will this work on my 2007 Dodge RAM? It is CAN bus, has an OBD II connector under the dash... But I think I could find the input wires fairly easily.
[edit] I was going to suggest Pelican might make a plastic case that will work, but I have not looked yet.

Would suggest getting an OBDII reader such as Scanguage. It's well worth the money - I had that with my old Civic. I would use it on my Astra, if only it had a OBDII port, not an OBD port

[walker111]

Ok, so I finally got around to hooking this up... Hooked all wires to ECU wiring. I have a slight idle surge/high idle after install, but not extremely worried about it. Trying to understand how to calibrate though, havent found anything decent on the net... Car is a 93 Civic Si

[walker111]

Today I was out driving and threw a TDC code... TDC= Top Dead Center, could it be so random that I install this and happen to have dizzy issues? Or something with the install be causing the malfuncition.

[walker111]

A1-INJ1 INJECTOR#1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJECTOR#4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJECTOR#2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, n/a
A5-INJ3 INJECTOR#3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor heating element Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11-EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has it) Red, n/a
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, n/a
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, n/a
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, n/a
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, n/a
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, n/a
A18-Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), n/a
A19-White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, n/a
A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22-Igniter, same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V

B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V
B3-Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B4-Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, a/c input, ~5V with KOEO & A/C off; <1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7-Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), <1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a

D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, n/a
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, ~5V (M/T); ~11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, n/a
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, n/a
D11-TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12-Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, ~1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor input Yel/Blu, ~5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor signal Red/Yel, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF (no info)
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, ~3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18-Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), n/a
D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D21-Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
D22-Green/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V

I used:
A1-INJ1 INJECTOR#1 Brown, Battery Voltage
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V

Think I just answered my own question with the above....

A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel