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Old 05-18-2013, 10:18 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgedartgt View Post
...It already held a torque converter, so I should think that it will hold the clutch pack...
Mike in FL
I'll take a look and see if it can work. I suppose the potential problem there would be if length is wrong maybe the back-end of the bell housing could be milled down.

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Old 05-22-2013, 09:25 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Later this week, I'm planning on dragging all my project parts (engine, tranny, other tranny, bell-housing, OTHER bell-housing, clutch, flywheels, etc, etc.) over to show to Hot Rod Jim.

Jim made the adapter plate for my Geo Metro based on the oily tagboard tracing I gave him and also helped out chopping the motor tail-shaft and cleaning up the commutator on his lathe.

I'm trying to figure out what combination of parts and in what order I need to get the engine and transmission together and functional. Part of that magic is the right distance for the transmission shaft to reach where it needs to go, holding the clutch and reaching into the flywheel.

Once he sees the parts, he should be able to give some advice to the best approach to hooking it all together.

So, since I'm a visual learner, I've been digging through YouTube for videos on how diesel engines work and about clutches.

I found a "how diesel engines work" video that was GREAT, well, information-wise at least. Camera-work, lighting, and sound were TERRIBLE, but the person knew what he was talking about. When I saw that the engine was held up by a SALT-
SHAKER, I knew this was my kind of guy! He had some really good info on the different ways fuel gets into diesel engines, and I feel like I'm starting to understand it a little better.

I also found a REALLY GOOD video on clutches! Most of the video is nice clean animation, which really gets to the heart of how the parts work.
Here's that video.



I'm starting to learn how some of these things work. Of course most guys would already know that kind of stuff BEFORE they start an experimental eco-hot-rod, but that's just not my style!

Nope! I gotta come up with something crazy first and then go back to learn the basics of how to make it possible!
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Last edited by bennelson; 05-22-2013 at 09:27 PM.. Reason: typos
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:39 PM   #143 (permalink)
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I got the engine, transmission, and other the other assorted parts at home now. I was able to take them over to show Hot Rod Jim, and get some good advice from him.

Where I had the engine, I had to load it into my pickup truck with a forklift. I don't keep one of those at home (no, I don't count the one I pulled the motor for the Metro from...)

I had a chain hoist. So, I backed my truck into the garage, lifted the engine up on the hoist, drove the truck out, and then lowered the engine to the floor.

Actually, the engine looked kinda cool while dangling there, so I took a few photos.






While I was at Jim's we were talking about the fuel system, among other things, and he mentioned that he had some diesel pumps (new) just kicking around. He gave me one. Which makes THIS the very first official DONATED item to the project!



I can externally mount that, and it just needs 12VDC to run, which means I now need any old can with a fill hole on top and a port on the bottom to be my diesel fuel tank. Ideally, I'd like a 10 gallon tank that fits directly in front of the driver's side wheel well in the bed. That would free up the space where the existing tank UNDER the truck is for the battery box. I'd also be able to use the current gas cap location for a charger port.

Oh, hey, look. I have a video to go with this as well!

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Last edited by bennelson; 05-25-2013 at 11:42 PM.. Reason: added video.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:30 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Very cool, Ben. I admire your efforts. Looking forward to see this project progress.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:32 PM   #145 (permalink)
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I tested out that fuel pump. It's 12V DC and pulls .75 amps. That'
s about 9 watts.

Seems to work pretty well. It pulses or vibrates. I tested it out with a small bucket of water. The output is not continuous in the way I'm used to seeing with rotary pumps.

Does that make this a diaphragm pump?

It's a new pump off a diesel generator that was upgraded to have an "extreme cold weather" pump installed on it.

Looks like all I should need for the fuel system is this pump, a plain tank with a vented cap, a fuel filter and hoses to connect it all together.

Surplus center has cheap tanks off generators. Something like this already has the vented cap and a port on the bottom for a gravity feed output.
Surplus Center - 4.5 GALLON RED FUEL TANK

I tested this pump just running air, and it seemed to do a good job sucking. I think I could use another one as a vacuum pump.

I still need to figure out what I want for vacuum. It looks like the diesel engine has a mechanical vacuum pump on it. I believe the original Mercedes 240D car used vacuum for both the brakes AND for the power locks. However, that doesn't help me brake the truck when running it as just electric.

It might be best to have a vacuum pump and have it run the brakes in EV/Diesel/ AND hybrid modes. On the other hand, I was also told that I could convert to MANUAL brakes just by swapping out the master cylinder. I have no idea what it would really take to do that, but I'd like to investigate it.

If anyone has ever swapped a vehicle over to manual brakes, let me know how it worked out for you and any tips and tricks for doing it.
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:08 PM   #146 (permalink)
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Manual brakes should be an easy swap, you just need a manual brake master cylender with the same bolt pattern, ideal would be one made for a vehicle like you have, common in some hot rods and older vehicles and in your Citi-car, power brakes will feel smoother and will help you stop quicker and easier, I'd keep them if possible.
As it is the power brake booster you have adds resistance when you are missing vacuum to it, some people say you can just poke a hole in the huge diapham and use it like that.

I think the vacuum pump is the device in photo number 2 that has a hose of some sort going to the intake (filtered air) that crosses just over the hook in the photo that is on the orange strap, maybe remove the vacuum pump and put it's own motor on it? or like you said already use a much smaller pump on the fire wall to save space.
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:39 AM   #147 (permalink)
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A $40 used vacuum pump from any Volvo and a $20 vacuum switch did the trick for me. My vacuum brakes are as strong as when my ICE was doing the sucking.
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:21 PM   #148 (permalink)
EV test pilot
 
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Electric Cycle - '81 Kawasaki KZ440
90 day: 334.6 mpg (US)

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90 day: 129.81 mpg (US)

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New video on latest update.
More at my blog:
SuperTruck: Fitting Engine & Tranny
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:30 PM   #149 (permalink)
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How practical would it be to move the starter? you are going to be making a new plate already that the starter bolts in to so why not move it to the S10 location?

I think anyone who turns clutches and brakes should be able to trim your clutch for you.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:40 AM   #150 (permalink)
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Hi Ben, I found your thread yesterday and have just finished reading through it. I'm curoius:
* Why are you using the S10 transmission? It might be cheaper and less complicated to find a used Mercedes trans. and weld up new mounting brackets than to make an adapter plate w/ your current setup. Btw, jack had some cool info on how to make the adapter plates in his thread, here: Project Land Yacht (BMW 5-series EV conversion) - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
* It sounds like you're going to be using a DC motor. When you are not supplying power to the motor, are there any limitations on how fast you can/should turn it under engine power? I think I read that you were sizing the motor to enable you to start the truck rolling with it attached direct drive (behind the transmission). I wonder if, when you have the trans in 5th gear and you're running the truck down the freeway at 70mph, if the motor could see damage or premature wear to it's brushes from the huge rpms.


This is a cool project! I'll definitely be following along. I'd like to do something similar with my truck, but had been looking at getting the 4wd version of my transmission and attaching the motor via the transfer case. If I could find an electronic transfer case, then I could disconnect the motor above it's relevant speed, and reconnect it on the fly... If you find out that you do have to be careful w/ the bearings in your motor, then this might be an alternative mounting point for you, rather than behind the trans.

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