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Old 04-11-2012, 01:10 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visionary View Post
Some friendly rivalry!
The pace of my progress has slowed due to the time consumption of small "finishing" jobs - look out for this, it will happen to you as well. I'll post a "to do" list on my thread so you can compare.
About the canopy, we both have the same problem! We can't justify the expense of a professionally built one, so we need to do our own thing - I got a great book (An introduction to Thermoforming) and have started making my own machine. I will use vacuum formed panels over temporary (grp & bondo) male moulds for all my bodywork.
Wish you luck, and look forward to seeing some images
Pete
Yes, I see the next stage being about 2 months of little things like re-wiring, re-routing controls, building some interior pieces and ventilation system, etc. Thankfully, must of what I am doing is just moving things around; it should not be all that much work. I am nearly done with structural elements and am looking forward to cleaning the metal filings form my workshop.
Building molds is a problem for me. Iím not very artistic and I feel like it is more of an art then a science. Also very time consuming. By design I have just limited this to the front windshield.
Well you guys want photos, this will have to do for now. Made some progress today, I still need to build my lower braces for engine. Itís too floppy to wheel around without these braces or the sheet metal empennage installed.



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Old 04-14-2012, 06:51 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Interesting design. I too have been wanting to build a bike with the engine in the rear. My thoughts are to build a flat single curved windshield framed like the Quasars. Would save having to do compound complicated curves.

My design would be a two seater with 2 doors.
The cabin would have a left door for the driver and a right side door for the passenger. The door will overlap a little on each side so should the bike fall over on one side the driver could recline the seat back and crawl out the back door or allow the passenger to crawl out the driver door if on the right side should the outriggers either fail to deploy or the driver have a brain fart and forget to put them down.



So to contribute to the brain trust, here are my thoughts on what's been discussed so far. The outriggers I've designed would use a pair of foot operated parking brake levers, mounted next to each other under the dash that a foot could easily cover both foot pads of the levers at the same time. This would uncomplicate the deployment method and make them as fast or slow as the rider needed them. Electric release solidoids would be used for quick tandum release. The outriggers would be spring loaded to retract against small nitrogen shock cylinders to prevent them from slapping the compression stops. Think of releasing the parking brake lever on a pickup. They would also have individual manual release pull levers on the dash so the driver could override one side or the other while his foot is on the pedals to fine tune the plant of the outriggers. Swivel caster wheel will make up for some slow moving mistakes or balance problems while manuvering. This could give the driver the ability to bounce the low side up if it's too extreme just before taking off. All while the other side is still down to catch it from going over on the other side. And the driver could cover both pedals with one foot if he needed to redeploy the outriggers quickly.

I use to build recumbant bicycles about 30 years ago where I used a 16 inch front wheel that was under the rider. The riders seat back was in front of the large 27 inch rear wheel. The pedals were out in front. The handlebars came up from under the seat.
It was hard to teach adults how to balance the bike while going slow, so I gave up on going commercial with them. Kids picked the concept up in about 60 seconds though. Unicycle riders had no problem with the balance of the thing with their hips. I'm thinking balancing a cabin motorcycle would be a lot like riding my recumbants.

As been said, some of us would not have a problem balancing them slow.
Others, not so easy!

Color me subscribed!

Last edited by Curtis in Texas; 04-14-2012 at 07:00 PM..
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:49 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curtis in Texas View Post
My thoughts are to build a flat single curved windshield framed like the Quasars. Would save having to do compound complicated curves.

I use to build recumbant bicycles about 30 years ago where I used a 16 inch front wheel that was under the rider. The riders seat back was in front of the large 27 inch rear wheel. The pedals were out in front. The handlebars came up from under the seat.
I wrestled a long time with the problem of eliminating compound curves in this design. The only such curve is the windshield, and no matter what I tried, a single curve always looked terrible in my computer model. Making the windshield will probably be the most challenging and time consuming part of the project.
It is interesting you mention recumbent seating. I was looking for options to reduce overall vehicle length and I did consider a feet up design, but decided it might not be driver friendly enough. I hope to let others drive this little monster on occasion without too much fear of them wrecking it.
I have tomorrow off and plan to make great strides in constructing my controls and finishing all of the little odds and ends like building mounts for the radiator and seatbelt system. Itís finally ready to roll around the on its own, Iím behind because I did not work on it at all this last weekend. Here is a better picture; it looks rather small in the driveway.

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Old 04-18-2012, 11:03 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Interesting to see it as a roller chassis now!

I was thinking for the windscreen, something along the lines of the Quasar based on this picture.
Simple and lends itself to making side entry and aerodynamics without a lot of compound curves.
Plus, the advantages of simplifying the windshields wiper design and effectiveness.
Lately I been eying the Honda SH 150 I as a power plant for mine simply because of it's simplicity for installation, it's water cooled, Fuel injected, it come with larger wheels, has the ability to remain a compact drive train and the fact that it already gets an EPA rated 103 MPG in an open scooter format. Plus it's touted as having enough power to move 2 persons at 65 mph. Should be plenty of motor once you add in a slippery aerodynamic bodywork. I'm not looking for something to break any speed records, but what I think is important is the economy of operation and the ability to keep up in traffic plus the dead reliability of a Honda.



Another simple windscreen approach is that of a section of a funnel as used in the earlier Phaser bikes of the 80's.


They changed the name of these and I can't for the life of me remember what it's called now. Called something like Light Star now!
Not really my cup of tea as I've seen one up close and it was a pain for the driver to enter and egress with the hinged hatch. Even with the massive out rigger wheels it had on it. I can't imagine getting in and out of that thing 4 or five times a day while on a shopping trip.

That's why I'm thinking of side doors using a set of the Lambo style hinges that are so popular with the Custom Car Ricer Crowds. For a 2 seater, one forward door on the left for the Driver and a more rearward door on the right for the passenger. Tying a roof into the head tube like Malcolm Smith did on the Quasar should give it all the rigidity it needs to seat 2 people.
I'm thinking my main frame tube will be an upside down tube that will be reminiscent of a Triumph Tigers main frame tube. It's beefy and simple.

With the door opening to the floor level entry should be simple much like the LIT electric bike designed in California.

Sorry for rambling, I enjoy watching builds like yours and can't help myself in interjecting some of my thoughts. Much of them formulated over many years of running "what if's" through my head at night to go to sleep. I have a notepad on my night stand full of idea I've thought if at night.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:06 AM   #75 (permalink)
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On and on I go

So progress has been slow these days with fabrication of small but important parts. Iíve been working on steering linkages, mounting brackets, and the brake and shifting mechanisms. Iím very happy with the steering and handlebar arrangement that was inspired by project 100, but my shifting and brake pushrod system needs a complete re-design. ľĒ rods where readily available, so I used them against my better judgment, resulting in excessive amounts of flex. I will be going up to 3/8 and doing some re-work to gain more mechanical advantage over the brake cylinder and shifter.
One of my main concerns so far is my speedometer cable. If looks to be about 18 inches too short. It has a square male end on it that screws into the back of the cluster. Does anyone know if Kawasaki uses this cable as a standard between all of their models? I might be able to find a longer one if this is true. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.



Yes the right handlebar is bent, this bike had seen some crashes...

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Old 05-07-2012, 08:39 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Hi Brock,
I could have written that last post myself – I have all the same issues, well time spent on small fabrications and speedo drive anyway.
I found a UK company that makes custom cables (Speedy Cables) and an extended version is not that expensive, I’m sure you have similar companies stateside.
Looks like you’re making good progress anyway
Regards
Pete
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:46 AM   #77 (permalink)
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There are several after market speedo cable suppliers that offer cables in long length that you cut down to fit your applications. I went with one on my Ducati and it was simple the square end had more than 6 inches I could trim off. I think I cut off 4 inches to make mine.

But if it were me, I go with something like the Vapor Electronic Speedo tach combo from Trail Tech. I pot one on my KLR a month ago and love it. Plus it's a smaller package that the stock gauges.
Much easier to install and a lot more bells and whilstles on it. And they are under $130. Plus they are small and easy to install almost anywhere.

You get all digital Electric Tach, speedo, clock, engine temp, trip, odo, stop watch, programmable shift points and ambient temperature. I really like the programmable part. I have fine tuned mine to give me economy shift point. (Which I love to ignore at times! )
AND you can programe it to warn you of engine overheating.


Vapor Digital Gauge at Trail Tech Home
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:59 AM   #78 (permalink)
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And I should point out that the Vapor will fit right inbetween the handle bars so easy it will look like a fighter plane.




Really coming along nicely. For the shifter try using 3/8th or half inch tubing. Tubing will flex less and solid bar stock. Or get some cable shift like found on a motor boats for steering. Some cars and truck use push pull cable shifters. That or some aluminum or heavy flat bar stock. But remember the longer the shift the harder it is to keep it from flexing. Even railroad rails flex. So cable shifting is the best for long distances.
My TD I Mark has them on it.

My first thought was wouldn't it be cool to move your front windshield loop forward then lean it back to where it is now. The make the door fit the longer opening and add a air lift under the seat to aid in entry and exit, like an elevator lift. Would make it easier to get your legs out of the cockpit.

I really like the rearend around the engine.

Last edited by Curtis in Texas; 05-07-2012 at 11:11 AM..
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:52 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, the vapor looks very nice. I am considering it, but it would add about $180 by the time I got the bells and whistles I would want. I keep thinking that works out to be 45 gallons of fuel at today’s prices, making it another 3400 miles of driving to reach breakeven over my current vehicle using projected economy. Torture on the brain to think like that….. (P.S. my math might be off, I was just doing it in my head, and my truck gets 25 mpg at best.)
I can’t seem to find a cable that has both of the end types I need or a kit that would work, but I’m still researching. If I don’t come up with anything, I guess I will have a good justification for the expenditure. Another benefit would be versatility for future swap outs of the front fork or engine/tranny. Food for thought.
I’ve been panting the frame now with a rust protective coat, so far the least satisfying part of the project as I HATE painting!
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:46 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Auto stores carry speedo cables that have 1/8" square ends that can be cut to length and include a crimp on end. Is it the core shape or the casing threads that are hard to match?
There are paper model programs that might help with the windshield which will be some kind of elliptical cone. Zzipper and Mueller both make clear fairings for recumbent bikes that might be adapted.


Last edited by Grant-53; 05-09-2012 at 11:54 PM..
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