Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > Fossil Fuel Free
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-14-2015, 12:07 AM   #1791 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,488

Ford Prefect - '18 Ford F150 XLT XTR

Tess - '22 Tesla Y LR
Thanks: 749
Thanked 565 Times in 447 Posts
Soldered up the serial cable and tested it - works fine

As you see on picture that Paul posted (on controller from access end):
Ctl = controller, 3 pin keyed connector with male pins on 0.1 inch spacing. Cable uses female with 3 pin header on 0.1 inch spacing
PC = 9 pin male on usb to serial converter, 9 pin D-sub female on cable

Ctl TX = Left = white = 2 = PC RX
Ctl RX = Mid = red = 3 = PC TX
Ctl GND = Right = Black = 5 = PC GND

Soldered up the potentiometer to the 3 pin header (not a keyed connector since I don't have one)

5V on left of header -> 4K7 resistor -> 80K pot -> 10K resistor -> 0V in middle of header
throttle signal on right of header swings from 0.48V to 4.52V

Note to solder this together
orang - 4k7 - orange
white - 10k - white
blu - 0ohm - blu

That took a *LOT* longer than it should have. No pictures - that will have to do for tonight.

So the encoder interface is pushed to next time!

  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 04-15-2015, 12:51 AM   #1792 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,488

Ford Prefect - '18 Ford F150 XLT XTR

Tess - '22 Tesla Y LR
Thanks: 749
Thanked 565 Times in 447 Posts
The encoder signal is messing me up a bit ...

Hohner (brand name) incremental encoder part number IN88AECS-L7AC-1000, through shaft, diameter 5/8 inch.

Enc = encoder male terminals on round connector
Ctl = 5 pin male header on board

What I think the pinout should be:
Enc - 1 = GND = White/blu -> White/blue -> far left or 1
Enc - 2 = PWR = blu -> blue -> 24V
Enc - 3 = A = Brn -> 20K -> 5K -> GND. A signal from between 20K and 5K resistor -> middle or 3
Enc - 4 = B = White/Brn -> 20K -> 5K -> GND. A signal from between 20K and 5K resistor -> far right or 5

So - testing with a 12V source (the power supply can be 9V - 24V DC)

Feed PWR +12V and GND 0V
Output signal A is a square wave about 0 -> 10V.
Output signal B is a square wave about 0 -> -10V?

Paul - if I drop the A signal to 0 - 5V and the B signal 0 - -5V ... is the board going to work OK or do I need to shift the voltage on the B signal to positive?

I've never scoped an encoder before, so I don't know if this is a typical signal.

When I went through the instructable it appears that the locked rotor test and tune can be done without the encoder connected .. so I will try it!
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2015, 02:26 AM   #1793 (permalink)
PaulH
 
MPaulHolmes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832

Michael's Electric Beetle - '71 Volkswagen Superbeetle 500000
Thanks: 1,368
Thanked 1,202 Times in 765 Posts
I'm fairly sure that the quadrature encoder interface expects both A & B to be 0 to 5v. I think it would be bad if the pin got -5v.
__________________
kits and boards
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2015, 09:22 AM   #1794 (permalink)
Dreamer
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 350
Thanks: 95
Thanked 214 Times in 151 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by thingstodo View Post
...Hohner (brand name) incremental encoder part number IN88AECS-L7AC-1000, through shaft, diameter 5/8 inch.

Enc = encoder male terminals on round connector
Ctl = 5 pin male header on board

What I think the pinout should be:
Enc - 1 = GND = White/blu -> White/blue -> far left or 1
Enc - 2 = PWR = blu -> blue -> 24V
Enc - 3 = A = Brn -> 20K -> 5K -> GND. A signal from between 20K and 5K resistor -> middle or 3
Enc - 4 = B = White/Brn -> 20K -> 5K -> GND. A signal from between 20K and 5K resistor -> far right or 5
Tried to find some specs on that part number but found nothing? Had a look at the incremental encoders on the Hohner web site and all the ones i saw had both normal and inverted A B signals. How many pins/wires are there on your encoder?

Is the 9v to 24v supply requirement listed on the device? Maybe try it with 5v and see if it reduces the output voltages or just outputs nothing.

Maybe post a picture of the encoder and any labelling on the device. Might be something one of the Ecomodders recognises.

Were the 10v levels from the resistor divider you described above or unloaded directly from the encoder outputs?

That's about all the thoughts i have.
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2015, 10:55 PM   #1795 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,488

Ford Prefect - '18 Ford F150 XLT XTR

Tess - '22 Tesla Y LR
Thanks: 749
Thanked 565 Times in 447 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Astro View Post
Tried to find some specs on that part number but found nothing? Had a look at the incremental encoders on the Hohner web site and all the ones i saw had both normal and inverted A B signals. How many pins/wires are there on your encoder?
Round connector, 11 pins, pinout is on a label on the side

Quote:
Is the 9v to 24v supply requirement listed on the device? Maybe try it with 5v and see if it reduces the output voltages or just outputs nothing.
Good idea. No signal at 5V.

Quote:
Maybe post a picture of the encoder and any labelling on the device. Might be something one of the Ecomodders recognises.
I'll post pictures with tomorrow's post.

Quote:
Were the 10v levels from the resistor divider you described above or unloaded directly from the encoder outputs?
10V when supplied with 12.4V from a battery, output loaded with the resistors (20K + 5K). It may be 10.1V, but definitely less than supply voltage.

I disconnected the resistor divider and checked things out. The unloaded signals are about the same - maybe 10.2V(the scope is not a good scope, and it's tough to tell exact voltages.)

I moved the scope probe on channel A to channel B ... and it showed B channel as positive!

WTF? ... would you believe that I have the invert pulled on B channel? ...

Yikes. So when I push the DARNED knob back in .. all is well! So I have a normal signal, not some magical inverted signal.

Onward - check that the voltage across the 5K resistor, make sure it is less than 5V, then connect the signal up to the controller
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to thingstodo For This Useful Post:
Astro (04-16-2015)
Old 04-16-2015, 12:37 AM   #1796 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,488

Ford Prefect - '18 Ford F150 XLT XTR

Tess - '22 Tesla Y LR
Thanks: 749
Thanked 565 Times in 447 Posts
New information - the output of the encoder is limited to 15V. So my voltage divider did not work so well. I tried 18V, 20V, 22V and 24.1V - the output reaches 15V and does not go over that.

I changed to a 10K and 5K resistor on the divider to get the 5V output (about 4.75V, actually). I hope that will work.

Connect 5 x 12V lead batteries in a pack (63V) to the pre-charge circuit per the instructable. Power up the controller through the DC/DC converter. Set kp-iq 2000, ki-iq 0, and run-pi-test
Nothing appears to happen. I let it sit for 5 minutes.

I can't build the source for this file. I didn't get the C30 compiler. Maybe it's just waiting for some signal to get in range .. just not sure what.

I turned it all off, then connected the encoder, just in case that's what it was waiting for. Power up and hit F9 on debug from MPLab. The contactors click, the prompt on the screen shows up and I can type config and set the kp-iq and ki-iq. run-pi-test .. no change. It just sits there. The motor does not rotate. The clamp-on meter does not register a surge in current on the positive DC supply. And there is no output on the screen.

Any ideas, Paul (or anyone else)?

I have the following connected, right to left:
- precharge contactor
- main contactor
- 24V and 0V connector
- serial cable
- encoder
- throttle pot connected as described in previous posts, at about 2.5V
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 04:03 AM   #1797 (permalink)
Dreamer
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 350
Thanks: 95
Thanked 214 Times in 151 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by thingstodo View Post
...The clamp-on meter does not register a surge in current on the positive DC supply. And there is no output on the screen.
Any ideas, Paul (or anyone else)?
If i remember correctly. There is a loop in the code right at the start with a delay that waits for the throttle to be at minimum before continuing.
If you have it permanently set to 2.5v it is probably stuck in that loop waiting for the driver to take his foot off the accelerator before starting up.
High pedal lockout i think it is called.
That may be the issue.
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Astro For This Useful Post:
thingstodo (04-16-2015)
Old 04-16-2015, 12:51 PM   #1798 (permalink)
PaulH
 
MPaulHolmes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832

Michael's Electric Beetle - '71 Volkswagen Superbeetle 500000
Thanks: 1,368
Thanked 1,202 Times in 765 Posts
Wow you are moving! I won't get to this until probably the weekend. I recently made the code so that you could do the PI loop testing and the regular AC controller stuff all in one hex file, but I haven't tested it. I'll test that on Astro's controller and let you know how it goes. You won't need the encoder at all for the PI loop tuning though.
__________________
kits and boards
  Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to MPaulHolmes For This Useful Post:
Astro (04-16-2015), thingstodo (04-16-2015)
Old 04-16-2015, 09:08 PM   #1799 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,488

Ford Prefect - '18 Ford F150 XLT XTR

Tess - '22 Tesla Y LR
Thanks: 749
Thanked 565 Times in 447 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Astro View Post
If i remember correctly. There is a loop in the code right at the start with a delay that waits for the throttle to be at minimum before continuing.
If you have it permanently set to 2.5v it is probably stuck in that loop waiting for the driver to take his foot off the accelerator before starting up.
High pedal lockout i think it is called.
That may be the issue.
What would you suggest as a 'foot off the pedal' value for the accelerator?

I think Paul said the range was 0.5 - 4.5V ... so maybe 0.6V? I'll try that and see if anything changes.
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 09:36 PM   #1800 (permalink)
PaulH
 
MPaulHolmes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832

Michael's Electric Beetle - '71 Volkswagen Superbeetle 500000
Thanks: 1,368
Thanked 1,202 Times in 765 Posts
Zero is actually about 2.5v, since the throttle was configured as a wig wag. But I don't know what the state of the code is on the instructable. It may still be filler that I was going to get to.

__________________
kits and boards
  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller MPaulHolmes Open ReVolt: open source DC motor controller 7381 08-02-2023 10:55 PM
Paul & Sabrina's Cheap EV Conversion MPaulHolmes Fossil Fuel Free 542 11-12-2016 09:09 PM
Contest! Name Paul & Sabrina's controller MetroMPG Forum News & Feedback 120 10-22-2011 01:59 PM



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com