Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > Fossil Fuel Free > Open ReVolt: open source DC motor controller
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 06-19-2009, 12:36 PM   #1761 (permalink)
Joe
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: phx
Posts: 260
Thanks: 0
Thanked 41 Times in 34 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
jyanof: Let's shoot for 2 weeks for assembly, but then there's the issue of programming. hmm...... Well, Fran is going to send me his bootloader. I know DCB was mentioning that it might have reliability issues with a bootloader, so I don't know, but then you could reprogram it yourself from any laptop (free software too!). I'm sure the software will need to be fine tuned. I don't see a way to avoid a bootloader in the early stages?
I do have an STK500... i can make a little cable to use the ISP header on the board, or pop the uC in and out. As for other people though, I dunno...

  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 06-19-2009, 12:47 PM   #1762 (permalink)
PaulH
 
MPaulHolmes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832

Michael's Electric Beetle - '71 Volkswagen Superbeetle 500000
Thanks: 1,368
Thanked 1,119 Times in 734 Posts
Hey jyanof! That's wonderful! I forgot about that! One problem with the control board is the pins for the ISP programming are mirrored.

They should be like this:
5 3 1
6 4 2

but it's like this:

6 4 2
5 3 1

Not the end of the world. If you use 3 pairs of wires just jack 1 2 on the STK500 to 1 2 on the control board, 3 4 to 3 4, etc...

I'm very grateful for your willingness to be a trailblazer! You are getting a bunch of the kinks out! ya!
__________________
kits and boards
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2009, 12:59 PM   #1763 (permalink)
PaulH
 
MPaulHolmes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832

Michael's Electric Beetle - '71 Volkswagen Superbeetle 500000
Thanks: 1,368
Thanked 1,119 Times in 734 Posts
Bus bar warnings! hehe, I thought I should let you guys know that the 3 bus bars already had holes drilled in them, and I adapted the controllers a bit to account for the hole spacing. Also, there are a couple holes that are unused. They are thicker than a standard curtis bus bar, so the holes won't matter. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle! haha!
__________________
kits and boards
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2009, 01:01 PM   #1764 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: canada
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
Personally, I would maybe wait a while to see if anything blows up with the 3 controllers, but I ain't nobody's pappy (actually I am, but that doesn't count). This is definitely beta testing phase. It's probably fine, but you know.
Sure I will wait for tests results before proceeding but laying out the PBC with SOIC won't hurt! I am pretty sure if changes needs to be made after testing, this will still be valuable !!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jyanof View Post
I do have an STK500... i can make a little cable to use the ISP header on the board, or pop the uC in and out. As for other people though, I dunno...
maybe a simple programmer schematic could be added to the PCB

ATmega8 Microcontroller Programmer

http://electronics-diy.com/avr_programmer.php

Last edited by patx; 06-19-2009 at 01:10 PM..
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2009, 02:06 PM   #1765 (permalink)
Joe
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: phx
Posts: 260
Thanks: 0
Thanked 41 Times in 34 Posts
Regarding the ISP header, i get the problem now - doesn't sound like a big deal. I just ordered a bunch of parts for the next iteration of my charger and picked up a few headers and cables, so I should be able to custom make something if I need to.

You might be grateful for the services of us testers, but all of us here are definitely grateful for the newly blazed trail to affordable EV products. And not just affordable, but high quality as well. (My Curtis spends more and more time in the 1.5 kHz mode now that it's getting hot outside - not only is the whine a little annoying, but I've read that lower frequency is not good for the caps. No wonder these things tend to 'pop' after a while.)
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2009, 08:35 PM   #1766 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bucharest,RO and Copenhagen,DK
Posts: 42
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
..... Well, Fran is going to send me his bootloader.
Well, until you get that you might want to try the one from our svn. I'm using it for a week now and it works sweet! Well documented too.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2009, 08:52 PM   #1767 (permalink)
dcb
needs more cowbell
 
dcb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location:
Posts: 5,038

pimp mobile - '81 suzuki gs 250 t
90 day: 96.29 mpg (US)

schnitzel - '01 Volkswagen Golf TDI
90 day: 53.56 mpg (US)
Thanks: 158
Thanked 267 Times in 210 Posts
I wouldn't use a bootloader in production. It uses flash that could be used for real code, adds risk, and besides, if you can load a bootloader, you can load a real program.
__________________
WINDMILLS DO NOT WORK THAT WAY!!!
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2009, 02:13 AM   #1768 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Maine
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjdennis View Post
Guys, I'm not trying to be persnickety or contrary here. I asked a question that was on-topic, about the controller and its possible use as a charger. My follow-up questions were going to be able how to size the inductor so that when I built the controller I could test it as a charger, too. But I got responses about choosing the right battery pack and energy losses and pack swapping. I've already got my battery pack. My EV goes over 100 miles on a charge. I drive it 88 miles round-trip to work. It just has trouble with sagging on steep hills, and Lee Hart recommended the solution I mentioned, getting a small second pack that could handle the high-demand draws for hills, and have my existing pack supply a constant 70A. Paul's controller seems like a good solution since I'm planning on building one anyway.

Bill
I can see your point about the second pack with lower capacity, but higher C rating; but I think the charging circuit is way to complex and unnecessary.

I would have the second pack at the same voltage and just use a single IGBT or a set of mosfets as an on off switch to engage the second pack in parallel with the first when extra current is needed. this could be trigged either manually, or automatically with a simple current sensing circuit.

In essence either it is connected and delivering the additional amperage, or it is not. there is no need for metering a controlled charge if both packs have the same nominal voltage; just supply the additional current as needed.

-----------------------------

edit...

Mosfets would be much preferred for this circuit as the voltage differences will always be minimal between the two packs.
__________________
"Experience is something you get right after you need it !"

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/garage/cars/143

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...tor-32083.html

Last edited by blackpanther-st; 06-20-2009 at 02:20 AM..
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2009, 02:57 AM   #1769 (permalink)
PaulH
 
MPaulHolmes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832

Michael's Electric Beetle - '71 Volkswagen Superbeetle 500000
Thanks: 1,368
Thanked 1,119 Times in 734 Posts
hey, I got interviewed today!

Leaving Facebook... | Facebook

AND a couple days ago:
DIY DC Motor Controller
__________________
kits and boards
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2009, 01:03 PM   #1770 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: canada
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Controller, motor combination.

Would the cougar controller be a good controller for this motor? Another question, would this motor be a decent motor for an ev conversion?
Sorry if i'm off topic here. Jim

GE 8" Series wound Dual shaft motor

SPECIFICATION:
43 HP at 120 Volts DC ELECTRIC MOTOR 34 HP at 97V with 5,700 RPM approximately
25 HP at 72V with 4,200 RPM approximately
17 HP at 48V with 2,800 RPM approximately
7,000 RPM approximately at no load and 120 Volts DC
300 Amps full load at all voltages
Ball bearing
Rotation reversible
Double Shafted
.Front Shaft 1 Diam. X 2" and tapers to 13/16"
.Rear Shaft 1" Diam. X 4" approximately
Size 8.25 X 20 including shaft approximately
Shpg. 145 lb estimate

  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Paul and Sabrina's Cheap 3 Phase Inverter (AC Controller) with Field Oriented Control MPaulHolmes Fossil Fuel Free 3477 05-24-2021 03:28 PM
Paul & Sabrina's Cheap EV Conversion MPaulHolmes Fossil Fuel Free 542 11-12-2016 09:09 PM
Three Dirt Cheap DIY Electric Cars - Part 5 SVOboy EcoModder Blog Discussion 0 12-12-2008 04:10 PM



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com