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Old 09-11-2009, 12:02 PM   #2261 (permalink)
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:56 PM   #2262 (permalink)
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Has any one received a kit yet? And what is the current lead time for a kit? Or are the FETs still playing hard to get?

I had issues getting a Synkro, so I have a Zilla 1K-LV on order but it wont be here for a while. I know it's over kill for a 96 volt Civic, but it's so nice (and expensive. )

I am looking to get a kit to build over my winter break (and maybe earlier if I ever earn back the costs of my Zilla). I have a scope and everything to build a kit, just need the time and my Winter break is a month long so I am going to need to do something EV related. (Hence the reason why a Zilla is on the way)
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Old 09-12-2009, 01:56 AM   #2263 (permalink)
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Hi Lou. I think Joe is the only one actually driving one right now. He's working on his A/C right now, so the car is in the garage. There will be more people driving them in a few days. I'm almost done with 3 controllers now. The JB weld on the nuts (loc-tite on steroids) is drying right as I speak. There are a few things to do, like make end caps. I'll probably just use the code that Joe likes in his car. It seems to be working well for him.

Lead time for controller kits is "10 weeks" but secretly, it should be shorter than that! I'm just saying that to make people not worry if it takes some time, since my job is starting up again in a few days. The kit is very diy. I've been taking lots of pictures, and I have a 26 page pdf that is evolving as the process improves and simplifies. The process is getting easier and better. It's still not what I would call easy, but it's very doable for someone that can solder.
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Old 09-12-2009, 03:05 AM   #2264 (permalink)
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Paul, you are a gift to us all!
I'm tempted to buy a kit just to puttz with it.
I really want to convert the 20 dollar Saturn some day.
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Old 09-12-2009, 03:15 AM   #2265 (permalink)
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That explains why I like rapping! Because I'm a gift! I need to add all the pictures and then write stuff and stuff like that, and then post the pdf.
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:02 AM   #2266 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcudogs View Post
Just finished updated circuits and pcb layouts.
controller_2d.zip
power1d.zip

I have used a connector and individual wire connections between the controller board and power board Mosfet gates to equalise track lengths / propogation easily. Battery voltage monitor (thanks NiHaoMike) and rev counter are included. Spare inputs and outputs are also included.
Hello Mcudogs,

Just a general question is the firmware going to be updated on Wiki with the Battery voltage monitor and Rev Counter ?

As the updated Schematics are looking good.

Cheers
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:21 AM   #2267 (permalink)
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Yes, when I get my prototype boards made up and I can test the software.
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:20 AM   #2268 (permalink)
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Hey Paul,
I'm wanting to build this controller for my 1974 VW SB conversion. I really like that you have the kits available on your website but I want to do as much as I can on my own in hopes on understanding how it all works. My questions are, If I purchase the controller board and power board from your website, are the parts list on the wiki for both current? Are there detailed/any instructions on how to put it all together? Do you think its a project someone with very little if no electonics background can do?

Thanks,
Reggie
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Old 09-13-2009, 01:46 PM   #2269 (permalink)
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Hi Reggie. The soldering isn't the easiest thing in the world. The control board is really pretty annoying. You have to keep your solder tip clean, and you really have to let the ground plane heat up a bit before the solder will stick to those spots.

It's a very unforgiving project. If you accidentally have solder touching where it shouldn't, or if you get tired and put a diode in backwards, or don't drill exactly down the middle of the heat spreader, or put the filter caps in backwards or ...(I could go on hehe) it will either not work (at best) or there will be lots of smoke and catastrophic failure of the mosfets/diodes.

I recommend that you practice soldering with a low power soldering iron, and with a 200-230 watt soldering gun. Get used to seeing the signs when the solder is realy laying flat, and not when it is just covering the area (because the area hasn't heated up yet). If you can solder, and you are a METICULOUS person, then yes, it's no problem. hehe.
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:07 PM   #2270 (permalink)
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Thanks Pual for the guidance. Are the parts list on the wiki for both the power board and control board current/complete? Are there detailed/any instructions on how to put it all together?

Thanks again,
Reggie

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