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Old 03-20-2010, 02:02 AM   #3241 (permalink)
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good information

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Old 03-20-2010, 01:29 PM   #3242 (permalink)
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Hey Paul,

I'm (finally!?) setting up to build my kit and I see there is no socket for U3. It seems like that would be a good idea. The other chips don't need one so much but the brain might have to come out some day. Are most people putting a 28 pin dip socket in there?

John
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Old 03-20-2010, 07:43 PM   #3243 (permalink)
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Hi again today i made some tests with a 12volt controller with 6x irf540 mosfets and for diodes i use 3x irf 540 that controller will be mounted on that electric BMX with starter dc motor till now it was controlled only with button and one 30Amp relay but hope soon to have new video with new controller
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:31 PM   #3244 (permalink)
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Hi John, yes, that is a good idea. Some people have socketed the atmega, and some haven't. I've just been a cheapskate and not included a 28 pin socket. I know radio shack has them for like $1 or so.

-Paul

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Hey Paul,

I'm (finally!?) setting up to build my kit and I see there is no socket for U3. It seems like that would be a good idea. The other chips don't need one so much but the brain might have to come out some day. Are most people putting a 28 pin dip socket in there?

John
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Old 03-21-2010, 03:52 AM   #3245 (permalink)
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Holy cow! CANbus is operational! I successfully had communication going between 2 nodes. I'm really really really really... really happy right now!

I sent 8 bytes as a single packet. They were 'a', 'b', 'c', ... , 'h'.

Originally, the 8 bytes of the receiving buffer had '1', '2', ... , '7', 'nothing' hehe.


I displayed it on the screen through the UART. So it can do CAN and RS-232 at the same time. hurray! noise immunity between everything that counts (and 500kBPS to 1 Mbps data rate), and slow crappy transmission for the user to see. haha

See the green and yellow wires connecting the 2 breadboards? They are the connecting wires for the canbus! You can't teach that, it's all instinct! hahaha


It worked on the first try. That never happens. Ever. Never.
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Old 03-21-2010, 05:45 AM   #3246 (permalink)
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Holy cow! CANbus is operational! I successfully had communication going between 2 nodes. I'm really really really really... really happy right now!
We can see your excitement in the first photo, couldn't hold the camera still !

Well done by the way.
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:02 AM   #3247 (permalink)
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The 8khz "squeal" is nothing like the curtis. Its only noticable when reving the motor in neutral with the bonnet open. When driving its not audible at all. From either inside or outside the car. Ok in theory it'd be easier on the bus caps to run at 16khz but they have steadfastly remained stone cold in my controller despite all attempts to warm them up! The max recorded heatsink temp was 35c after blasting the car up and down a hill for 15 minutes. I used one igbt as the switch and one identical device with its gate and emitter tied together as the diode. No regrets so far and cost peanuts.

Now I am using a compound motor if that makes any difference?

Paul quick question. Would it be possible to program the controller to limit the motor voltage? Well done on the can bus stuff. I used it many years ago and it was a real pain to setup but once running impossible to glitch.
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:46 AM   #3248 (permalink)
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Thanks Paul. I think I'll circle by there this week and pick up a socket.

John
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Old 03-21-2010, 10:05 AM   #3249 (permalink)
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wtg paul!
i am intently watching this, as this is the controller/bms/etc i want to use.

p.s. i am not surprised it worked the first try. you have that kind of skill.
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Old 03-21-2010, 05:55 PM   #3250 (permalink)
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Good news from my BMX scrap project today i made a box for the controller who i made yesterday and install it on the bike. We made many tests and have good result no heat at all and good response from trimer to motor Now my old friend uncle Janko will accelerate nice when he goes around the Neighborhood here is video

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