Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller - Page 329 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

ElectricZX2 · 03-30-2010, 12:30 PM

"The 6 bms boards are like 50 hours worth of soldering, so cancer, here I come! hahahaha. Actually, I'll just solder them a little, and test it, and then send the other ones in to have them solder them automatically".

Well at least you won't be alone, I think I just got a little cancer myself while in Phoenix for the weekend, seems to be the place to be lately! Got to tool around in my grandpas electric golf cart (he just got new batteries....I'm jealous).

So, question: does anyone see a problem with a hybrid agm-LiPo4 pack? I want to eventually upgrade to lithiums, but can't afford them all at once. My 110ah agm pack seems to be slowly dying, and it seems silly to replace them with $200+ new agms that will only last a couple of years of daily driving at best. Anyway, if I run a string of 4 Thundersky 100ah batterines in series with the rest of the pack and charge/balance them separately (with Paul's new fancy bms/charger), theoretically they should be able to keep up and still have plenty of charge left when the rest of the lead pack dies, right (especially once I install my 1000amp revolt and start to unleash old Peukert)?

dave koller · 03-30-2010, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

The 6 bms boards are like 50 hours worth of soldering, so cancer, here I come! hahahaha. Actually, I'll just solder them a little, and test it, and then send the other ones in to have them solder them automatically.

Paul - as dumb as it sounds I stick a shop vac near an outside window and run an extra long suction hose near my soldering - sucks away all the stuff and sends to the neighbors -

In cold weather I put a collar on and an extra hose - and out a crack - (still kills the neighbors - er, but they are far away lol.....

JRoque · 03-31-2010, 05:03 PM

Hi. I'm dizzy from scrolling up and down on all of these pages looking for the circuit diagram to the controller Paul made. Anyone with a quick link to that, please?

Thanks!

bennelson · 03-31-2010, 05:21 PM

The Diagram, Parts List, Build Instructions, etc. are all in the project WIKI.

See at the top of the screen? Where it says "Wiki"? Click that, then select the Open Source Controller Project.

Or just CLICK HERE.

JRoque · 03-31-2010, 06:15 PM

wow that was quick. Thanks!

I'm sure this question has been asked before on this 330 pages thread but, any future plans on a 3 phase controller? You already have the basic elements with this controller. Add three H bridges and 3 phase logic/sensors and its a start.

Regards,
JR

adamj12b · 03-31-2010, 06:18 PM

Paul has started a 3 phase controller project that has got put on the back burner so he can finish the charger and BMS.

His inverter uses a dsPIC chip which is a much better idea they an atmega for 3 phase control.

-Adam

MPaulHolmes · 03-31-2010, 07:15 PM

Hey! the charger control board, and bms boards arrived! haha ya! As soon as I finish that crap, I want to do the 3 phase! ya!

Flatmann100 · 04-01-2010, 06:44 PM

<br> Hi Paul, Adam, Caspar, the cougar is in the house! runs great drove around the block like 30 times. Thanks for all your hard work.

MPaulHolmes · 04-01-2010, 07:48 PM

Flattman! YOu are going to make me cry! cut it out! You are the man! I'm so happy inside right now! Wasn't it scary when it was all hooked up in the car?! and you stepped on the gas for the first time?! and such a wonderful feeling when it actually started to drive!?!?\!!!!!!!!!!!1?????????????? Congratulations!~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 yahoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Flatmann100 · 04-01-2010, 09:06 PM

Paul, the only real problem was not being able to use realterm. But with RTD explorer I could change the PC time. As for the other issues: it’s hard to fix something when it isn't broken. The weird voltages I was seeing came from the B+, B- connections. It was a 12 volt system check so nothing got damaged. I followed your instructions to the letter. I think they say when your finished attaching the copper bars the B+ is the one on top. That's fine but after doing that you flip the assembly over to finish the build on the power section. I found the error when I traced the gate resistors and saw that PH1, PH2 are on the negative side. Whatthaheck, why build something if you can’t play with it. I have to order a new Paktrakr module as I ruin one while doing the controller upgrade. They sure are fragile. For now the only way I will be able to see what’s going on is through the RTD explorer. Check with you all later.