Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller

[MPaulHolmes]

The SR version has all the chips through hole, and all the resistors, caps, etc surface mount. That's so you can socket the chips, and replace them if something goes wrong in testing. I just want to check it over to make sure there are no mistakes before sending it in. It's just been sitting there for the last 4 months or so with no changes. I got distracted with the bms/charger.

I'm fine-tuning the charging algorithm now for the bms/charger. I'm testing the constant voltage finish charge tonight on some thunderskys. Here are some pictures for the first batch of 24 that I charged last week:


Voltages of least charged thundersky compared to the one that finished quickest. Both had never been charged before:


Charging at 14.2 amps, since 20 was making my stupid plug really really hot, and 25 made the fuse trip:


7kW Charger:

[apowers]

Hi Paul
Well doesn't that all look great. Are you going to put those batteries in "Rusty Richard"? Keep up the good work.
Alvin

[MPaulHolmes]

haha! No, I wish. The batteries, charger and bms are for Tinitron, in Oregon. They are working on a 3 wheeled series plug-in hybrid. The charger (well, version 2) is going to be running off of a generator in the car once the depth of discharge of the batteries reaches some point. I think it will work pretty well. The generator is an extra 200 pounds or so I think, which isn't toooo bad. I would like to build my own once I get all this working.

[mrbigh]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

The SR version has all the chips through hole, and all the resistors, caps, etc surface mount. That's so you can socket the chips, and replace them if something goes wrong in testing. I just want to check it over to make sure there are no mistakes before sending it in. It's just been sitting there for the last 4 months or so with no changes. I got distracted with the bms/charger.

I do not want to sound very impatient, It's been quite a few months only, but we are awaiting, ME INCLUDING, your release of the improved SR controller to continue and finalize with the EV conversions.
The charger you're developing and the BMS will be a plus.
For the SR controller, would be great if you can provide a parts KIT like in the previous version.
I can deposit $$ in advance on your Paypal to secure the purchase of these and help to expedite the process.

[sawickm]

Originally Posted by adamj12b

Yes, I am still working on an SMD version, but it kinda got put on the back burner due to funding and some other projects that i needed to get done.

If somebody wanted to order me a board after I finish the design, it would greatly speed up the prototype. I have almost all the parts to stuff the board with (caps, resistors). I think it was like $24 for 1.

Hi Adam,

Send me an email after you get those changes done so we can get you a bare PCB to finish your prototyping.

Would you have the area on the PCB to add the additional I/O that is on the Rev.D controller ??? Making your's the Rev.E contoller.

I know the current firmware does not support the additional I/O, but the hardware would be there for future firmware updates.

Later,

-Mark

[MPaulHolmes]

Hi Mark! Man, I wouldn't have 3/4 of the things I have if it wasn't for Mark. Thanks Mark!

Cyrus: I just noticed your message. Would it work to have the pwm signal so far away from the controller like that?

[sawickm]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

The charger (well, version 2) is going to be running off of a generator in the car once the depth of discharge of the batteries reaches some point.

Hi Paul,

Thanks for you kind words !!!

Are they using a compact 110/220V generator (RV type) to run the Charger. How many Watts is the generator unit ???

Was an intellegent controller developed to sense battery voltage, autostart the generator to run the charger, and turn it off when battery voltage is reached ??? That's a simple Hybrid ..... I would be interested in a Generator / Charger Controller Project ????....... Sounds like a fun !!!!!

-Mark

[MPaulHolmes]

It's a 220v generator. It will be around 6-7 kW but they haven't settled on one yet. It's just a small, 3 wheeled car, so 7kW will go a long way.

The SR controller will have all the necessary stuff on it (which isn't much) to do it all. It has CAN, so it will be receiving each battery voltage. Right now there are 48 of those little buggers. Each battery measurement is accurate to about 0.005v, so all 48, under absolute worst case, the overall voltage monitoring is accurate to around 163.2v +/- 0.24v when fully charged. In practice, it's more like +/-0.1v or something.

CAN was a pain, but now it's wonderful! So, I have a few contactor turn on circuits on the controller control board, so when the amp*hr usage hits a specified value (the voltage won't necessarily drop), I just turn on the generator with the controller (electric start). Then once it's been on for a few seconds, the charger closes its contactors, since the charger and controller are good buddies, sharing everything over CAN. The charger 12v power is on whenever the controller is on. Each one only uses like 1 watt of power (the 12v section), so it's all good. Then the charger takes the 220v from the generator, and, being a big current regulator, just puts out a constant 40 amps at whatever voltage (it doesn't care what the voltage is). At a stop sign, the batteries will be charging. While driving, they will vary from charging to power being sucked out of them. That's it! hurray! Chevy volt on a shoestring!

[sawickm]

Paul,

After that explanation, like mrbigh I too am anxious to see the SR Controller prototype. I can understand your building block concept now using CAN-bus to tie the SR Controller, DC Charger, BMS, and generator all together.

“Chevy volt on a shoestring!” you have my attention !!!

Keep up the good work

-Mark

[voltmatic automaton]

Yes gents, it works!

The Logisystems power stage/Revolt Controller board is good! So after putting some low value resistors to parallel the gate resistors I can now drive the car and the heat is a lot more manageable.

It still gets to where the overheat alarm comes on but not NEARLY as quickly, I am working on the cooling setup to make it dissipate the heat faster. I was able to put some decent milage on the car today.

Are there any other changes I could make to the electronics to remove some of the heat?
Would the 15v supply we discussed help?

And thank again for everyones help, while it started out as all greek to me , it slowly is becoming a little ungreeked!