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Old 04-30-2011, 12:12 PM   #4681 (permalink)
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This controller for the motorbike uses a standard rev c control board fitted with a 15v dc dc instead of 12v. Otherwise its original. I'm running a UCC27321 driver chip. It seems quite happy driving two modules via the miller clamp network and the emitter resistors. Space is quite tight on the bike so i'm aiming to keep it as tidy as possible. BTW the caps are 6800uf 250v , 1uf 250v poly x 4 and 1uf 1200v mkp Aerovox RC snubber across the switch.

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Old 04-30-2011, 12:27 PM   #4682 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbigh View Post
Have a problem....
I was in the mood of assembling the Malexis current controller and found that the silk screen in the PCB is unreadable.
Then I downloaded the Wiki files for the same PCB but I'm unable to open these ones with the GNU Image Manipulation program that come attached to the .GBR files. I tried also the DesignSparks program with no luck at all.
I can't read the parts positions on the PCB.
Any help?
download KiCAD ( unable to post links *grr* ), the .gbr files are not really brush files. You want gerbview from the main KiCAD launch window.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:22 PM   #4683 (permalink)
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C1 is 0.001uF
C2 is 0.001uF
C3 is 0.1uF
C4 is 100pF



Oh, on a separate note, evidently it's bad to solder in optocouplers where the mosfet drivers should go. I did that today and the car amazingly didn't work! So I took the whole friggen pile out of the dang blasted car and took the whole dang friggen controller apart and discovered that the mosfet driver board had optocouplers soldered in instead of the mosfet driver. Man I'm a friggen idiot. It took forever to cut all the legs off and suck all the solder out but I did it and now it works! I drove for a couple miles and even did some weenie acceleration tests. It has good acceleration, even while taking it easy. The baseplate wasn't even warm after a couple mile drive, so I don't think I'll need a heatsink. I have a controller!!! I haven't had a controller for over a year!
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Old 05-01-2011, 01:08 AM   #4684 (permalink)
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[QUOTE I haven't had a controller for over a year![/QUOTE]

What about the one beginning with "S"?

Good work anyway.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:29 PM   #4685 (permalink)
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alternate controller parts supplies

a quick question as i haven't been on in a while, i got the power pcb (thanks paul!!)

so i am about to order the parts for the power but half the parts are not in stock...soo...can anyone suggest alternate parts that would work just as well (or better)

the parts i need are really just the 16 power caps...although i am having to order from 4 different suppliers to get everything i need, anyone have any suggestions?

honestly i can't wait a month for possible delieveries as i promised my other half a working vehicle by june 1st.

shes going spare with the one car commute thing...

thanks for any help

roy
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:29 PM   #4686 (permalink)
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16 of the 820uF caps have worked well for Joe in Phoenix, which is HOT!!! So, maybe these would be fine??? I bet they would work:
Digi-Key - P11619-ND (Manufacturer - EET-ED2D681CA)

These would be good:
Digi-Key - 338-1549-ND (Manufacturer - SLP821M200C4P3)

I think these would be fine too:
Digi-Key - P10111-ND (Manufacturer - ECO-S2DB821CA)
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:31 PM   #4687 (permalink)
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Caps

I have some spare Panasonic power caps.
PM me in you can't get them in the US 'cause I am in Australia.
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:23 AM   #4688 (permalink)
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I've used "P11600-ND" in the controller that i've driven for the first time this weekend.. works also perfectly
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:24 PM   #4689 (permalink)
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Once every several weeks I tune in on this thread a bit, and I see you guys talking about a current sensor (one that helps to get away from the lem hass), does it happen to have a name? I'm trying to figure out how it works. Nobody has to go into any great detail, but if there's somewhere that I could read up on it?? I won't build this controller for some time most probably, but I would like to keep some of this info so that I can use it when I'm able.
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:02 PM   #4690 (permalink)
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Hi Jim! It's the Melexis HB:

Digi-Key - MLX91205KDC-HB-ND (Manufacturer - MLX91205KDC-HB)

It can be had cheaper at other places than Digikey, though.

http://media.digikey.com/PDF/Data%20...%20(rev09).pdf

Basically, the magnetic field through the sensor (from left to right or vice versa corresponds to a voltage on the output pin of the sensor. The current through the bus bar (from top to bottom) makes a magnetic field from left to right (or whatever. haha) The further away the sensor is from the magnetic field, the less sensitive the output is.

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