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Old 11-30-2011, 01:41 PM   #5231 (permalink)
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The Cougar worked great for my 94 Toyota pickup! I put it on the road this summer. It's got only 300 miles but I'm really happy with it!

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Old 11-30-2011, 06:56 PM   #5232 (permalink)
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I've been reading from page 1, after about four days of reading i'm only at page 101! ......
At some point, we are just going to convert this into a best-selling book!
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:19 PM   #5233 (permalink)
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I drove the car for the first time since installing the Open Revolt/Cougar controller, and it runs beautifully! Smooth starts, great acceleration and power to spare. I had used most of the settings similar to Mike's in the Wiki as he has a similar motor and pack voltage and I don't think I will need to change anything, as it works better than I expected.

My thanks to Paul and Sabrina for making the kit available, as well as everyone else on this thread for their contributions to the project!

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Old 11-30-2011, 08:10 PM   #5234 (permalink)
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HI Ben! If we make it a book, we should cut out the naked North Korean Dictator. I can't remember what page it's on, but that was nasty.

Hi Amin! I'm SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO glad it's working!! I can officially breathe again.

Hey! I'm going to do some thermal tests on some lower end diodes. They are rated for 300v, and 60amp per leg. I'm officially a professional at soldering TO-247 package mosfets/diodes to heavy duty bus bars now. And I don't think the thermal stress is too much. They still work just fine after their backs are soldered to the bar and they aren't at solder temperature for very long. It takes a hammer poundind a flat head screwdriver against it to remove them, and that's only after the outer black plasticky part has been completely destroyed. Seriously about 30 pounds with a hammer really hard before I can break the copper back of the mosfets/diodes from the copper bus bar. Those things aren't going to "wiggle" loose. haha. It took a whole bunch of different approaches to get it just right, and the process keeps getting smoother!

For 1000 amps, I need about 84 motor amps from the cheap diodes, which are rated for 120 amps average. In bulk they are only like $3-$4 each I think.
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:12 PM   #5235 (permalink)
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I haven't made it entirely through this thread yet... Now with naked dictators... I'm not sure I want to... Laugh...
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:39 PM   #5236 (permalink)
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"Interesting" event this morning. Air temp was down near freezing. Controller heatsink temp reported as 0C. Switched on as normal. Into reverse , handbrake off , give it some pedal. Nothing. More pedal. Nothing. Even more pedal. Next thing the right side back tyre lays rubber on my drive and i headbutt the steering wheel. Lifted off the throttle and all back to normal. Car drove perfectly all day. Any ideas? Seemed as if the pwm had ramped up to full but was not getting through to the igbts. Or the igbts were hibernating. Or maybe something like in Lethal Weapon 2 when they froze the toilet bomb ...
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:53 PM   #5237 (permalink)
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I think the crystal oscillator is rated for 0-70 degC. But 0C isn't below 0C ... There are a few other components that are also rated for 0C. The VLA driver is rated down to -20C. It does sound like the PWM was ramped up to 100% duty, but the IGBTs weren't getting the memo. So, I think the microcontroller was working like it should. Is it possible that the main contactor didn't close at first? That would make the throttle to ramp up quickly to 100% duty. I added a fix to that that causes a fault until the pedal is released, but I don't think you have that version.

Do you just have 1 contactor? Is there anything else like an inertia switch that is affected by cold weather?
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:00 PM   #5238 (permalink)
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Paul , I can confirm the main contactor was closed and the bus caps had full pack voltage. Gonna need to figure this out as temps will be getting below freezing very soon. I'll be more careful in the morning
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:02 PM   #5239 (permalink)
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I actually suspect the lem. Does the software have the ability to ignore negative current readings from the lem? This caused a cold weather problem with the charger that uses a hass 50 a few weeks back.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:31 PM   #5240 (permalink)
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What throttle are you using? Have you noticed any ice formation on the underside of the motor? I noticed the weirdest ice crystals on temperature drops from damp moisture in the storage air and it seemed to form on some contacts. Bit of dust, ice crystals, resistance ? Not that that is the problem but just another thought - I do not have heat in the Garage-in-a-box !

Lem makes sense - things like this never show up in the warm climates.

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