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Old 12-06-2011, 12:09 PM   #5251 (permalink)
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Great!! Temperature here was - 6 F this morning!

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Old 12-06-2011, 03:15 PM   #5252 (permalink)
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That is cold Dave! Paul , no need to worry about dying. I've done it twice. Seasons 4 and 6 i believe
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:55 PM   #5253 (permalink)
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You don't suppose there is any possibility of the motor itself having frozen? And it took large amps to break free, then warmed up...
Most electronics will work happily to much lower than rated specs, although there might be some drift.
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Old 12-07-2011, 01:13 PM   #5254 (permalink)
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In other cold related thoughts....

The only issue I have ever had with winter weather in Wisconsin was with the vacuum switch for the brake system.

There have been a few times where moisture in the air freezes the vacuum switch in one position. It can't turn on and off automatically. Repositioning or reorienting the switch may help (Cause condensation to fall away from the switch for example, instead of into or towards it.)

I'm a big proponent of "designing for failure" - what will happen when something breaks? Because it's going to, especially if I built it.

On my car, the vacuum switch for the power brake system is set up so that in event of the switch NOT working, the pump runs. At worst, I have a noisy little pump running continuously, instead of no power brakes.

I haven't had any issue with it in some time, but thought I would bring it up for anyone else facing cold winter weather in an EV.

It's hard enough to stop a car in the snow as is, I'd like to keep my brakes, thank you!
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:40 PM   #5255 (permalink)
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I feel so ignored on here LMAO
Just wait until summer. We'll force you to complain how hot it is and all the challenges you have designing your own air-conditioning system for your car!
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:42 PM   #5256 (permalink)
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NA!! great weather down here 80's F
I guess that rules out a white christmas. haha.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:35 PM   #5257 (permalink)
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Ha HA I saw it snow in Boca Raton in the frostbite 60's!!

It froze out the oranges forgot the exact year....

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Old 12-08-2011, 04:29 PM   #5258 (permalink)
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Does anyone know how to get to the bill of materials for the 2C controller on the wiki?
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Old 12-08-2011, 04:40 PM   #5259 (permalink)
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Old 12-08-2011, 05:26 PM   #5260 (permalink)
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Pictures of new controller! Holy cow I'm sneaky sometimes...

Solder the backs of the mosfets/diodes to the bus bars...


The power board goes on top, and all the mosfet/diode legs go through their respective holes. It's easy to do. Just take the bar with the legs and stick them through! Then flip it upside down! The top bar is B-, and is the only one that is on the power board. I haven't drilled the holes for it yet, but I did write the G-Code for that yesterday:


These are just components for practice. See how the legs go through? haha.


Here's the current sensor board. OK, there's no isolation material underneath now. I admit that!! Back off! Quit picking on me!


Some Silicone that's rated for 500 degF goes on the face of the mosfets and diodes. There's only like 1/20 inch of space, so you can use like 1/16 thick to really squash the bus bars down hard against the base plate. Oops I never got a picture of that part.

7/32" spacers. Thank you McMaster Carr for all your nonstandard stuff! I got the wrong size screws. A weee bit too long. haha:


4 homemade and CHEAP isolated DC-DC converters! And 4 isolated drivers. Each driver drives 3 mosfets. The bus bar's inductance can cause problems at very high currents with 12 mosfets. So this essentially chops up the bar into 4 little pieces, each with its own isolated supply.


Notice that the distance from mosfet driver output, through resistor to gate leg is essentially identical for all 3. And the legs of the mosfets/diodes stick through both the power board and driver board. They just aren't in this picture. The gate resistors are low inductance "Little Demon" 15 Ohm resistors from Ohmite. Like $0.40 each! man! They come only in 5% tolerance, so I bought 100 of them and matched a group of 12 of them to within about 0.5%. Also notice the "DQ". A TVS diode goes in the hole at the same time as the Mosfet's Gate and Source legs. You can't get any closer than that. haha. I made the hole extra big so the mosfet leg and TVS leg could both fit:


I use some 0.2" thick nuts for spacers between power board and driver board. Nice and close! No more dang blasted wires connecting anything.


The holes close to the capacitors are there in case you want to put a film capacitor from the B+ leg of the diode to the B- leg of the mosfet. You can't get a loop much shorter than that!


And what's a controller without a control board?! This is just a basic one that I'm pretty sure will work. haha. There's lots of room to add other crap later. It's actually a lot cheaper to do it this way than to make a board as small as possible and then make a mounting board.

Here's a side view.


I don't ask for much! Please work!!! hahaha

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