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Old 01-01-2012, 11:35 AM   #5371 (permalink)
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Paul;

That motor sounds like an old Model A Ford hehehehe

How much tread did you grind off the tire?

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Old 01-01-2012, 02:07 PM   #5372 (permalink)
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A lot!!! I had to sit on it with all my weight to get the stupid thing up to 115 amps. I think testing 1000 is hopeless using the same approach. Actually, I do know someone who could help. The Refridgerator Perry.
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:01 PM   #5373 (permalink)
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Might be time for that liquid cooled inductor.............oh wait didn't I get in trouble about that before ...
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:27 PM   #5374 (permalink)
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hahaha. That would never work. What a dumb idea. Actually, that's coming next!
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:44 PM   #5375 (permalink)
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Someone told me that it's possible that some of that noise is probably from the probes picking up noise, so I attached the positive lead and ground to the same point, and it was oscillating and ringing like crazy. So it's possible that I'm chasing phantoms. haha. It's such a menace that it's happening. The Phantom Menace.

The control board, driver board, and power board needed very minor changes, but since the control board has so much room left on it, I added undervoltage lockout for the 12v signal now too. So now it disables if 15v supply to the driver board drops below 12.5v, 12v supply drops below 10.1v, and 5v supply drops below 4.49v.

It could still be a problem if the microcontroller crashed and didn't restart from the watchdog timer, so I took 2 unused pins on the micro, and am pulsing them from 0v to 5v to 0v. When one pin is zero, the other pin is 5v. They are driving the primary side of a small line filter (transformer). On the secondary, I rectify the signal and have a capacitor there. Then I have a load resistor that is constantly sucking the current from the capacitor. So... If the microcontroller freezes, it will certainly stop pulsing those 2 pins, which will cut the power to the primary of the line filter. The output of the line filter will drop to zero volts. I'm choosing the output capacitor and load resistor so the output falls in about 1 millisecond. That will trigger a comparator, which will then disable the mosfet driver. ya! You can't teach that. Pure instinct. hahaha.
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:40 AM   #5376 (permalink)
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Quick feeler to see if there is interest.

Im looking to do a group buy of new kilovac EV200 contactors, but only if there is interest.

Here is my thread in the For Sale section:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post277390

-Adam
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Old 01-05-2012, 05:50 PM   #5377 (permalink)
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I need a little help. I assembled a speed controller I ordered from Paul and Sabrina. I had a vref fault until I found a loose connection at the current sensor now that that is fixed it still is not giving me anything as far as an out put. The throttle and current reference appear to be moving as they should but battery amps and current feedback are zero. Any ideas?
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:00 PM   #5378 (permalink)
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During debugging make sure it's not hooked up to the battery pack. First, with nothing connected to B+, B- and M- bus bars, but with a throttle and the current sensor connected, turn on the 12v power to the control board. Now, put a volt meter's negative lead on PH1 or PH2, and positive lead on any of GR1 through GR10 on the control board while at zero throttle. Verify that you have zero volts. Now, give it a little throttle. The voltage should climb quickly up to around 12 volts, and then quickly fall back to zero, and the LED should start flashing. Does that happen?
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:22 PM   #5379 (permalink)
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the voltage is at zero but does not climb when you press the accelerator but the yellow light does flash.
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:31 PM   #5380 (permalink)
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Is the yellow light flashing the whole time? Even when the throttle is zero?

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