Paul's how NOT to convert a Metro

[MPaulHolmes]

Go Paul!

[MPaulHolmes]

Two quarter inch steel plates with some spacers make for a nice adapter plate. I've been using that for a little over a year and haven't had any problems. For the spacers, you could use maybe 1" diameter steel tubing, and some beefcake grade 8 bolts. Put each bolt through the tube, and clamp the 2 plates together. 3/8" grade 8 bolts can get torqued to like 80 foot*pounds. You will then be able to put oprah on top of the motor and it won't be a problem. I would use several of the spacers. In my ocvnersion I used maybe 10 or 12 spacers. I forgot! hahaha. But then again, I also drilled a hole down the middle of them, and they were aluminum. That was horrible drilling through 3.5" of aluminum with a $40 harbor freight drill press. HORRIBLE use tube instead! or something completely different!

[vpoppv]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

Go Paul!

Thanks Paul!

I'd use grade ocho boltinies, but that would be the strongest parts in the conversion and the other parts would be intimidated. I don't believe in bullying. Besides, think about how manly it would be to say "that motor has so much torque it sheared those bolts clean off!".
But then, Oprah is my hero (it's true, just look at my MySpace. Her and the Incredible Hulk. Yes, I know I opened myself up for a whole slew of jokes...), so I might want it to be strong enough to support her. I've exhausted about every source for aluminum plate, so it looks like I'll have to do eBay; for that, I have to sell something first. Luckily, I have a radiator, alternator, A/C pump, block, head, etc., that I just pulled. Maybe I'll go steel/spacers. That's one thing about me, I always make firm decisions. Wait, unless I have several options. No, I make firm decisions. Well, not this time, but maybe if.....

Anyway, you NEED to make one of them there controllers for us bottom-feeders. Something like 72 volts with like 300 amps for $50 using stone knives and bearskins....

[vpoppv]

Makeshift adapter plate is mostly done. Made it out of 1/8 inch steel. I used the doors from my Dodge B350 cargo van that separated the driving compartment from the cargo area. Even that thin stuff is no fun to cut with a sawzall. I think I will call that tool a "sawzsome" from now on. I need to run down to the farm supply place again and get a holesaw to cut the hole for the motor shaft. I also pulled out all the electrical stuff from the golf cart yesterday. I was thinking of throwing all that stuff into the car just to see if it works, but it looks so complicated.....

[MPaulHolmes]

You are hilarious! This has officially become regular reading for me.

[ev59rag]

I copied MPaulholmes idea. But instead of using steel, I used 1/2" inch thk aluminum bought from metal surplus store here in Kent,WA for 2 bucks per pound. Very light so I ended up paying like 30 bucks for 2 pcs of 12"x12" 1/2" aluminum plate. I chose aluminum too since it is easier to work with compared to steel.

For spacers, instead of Paul's aluminum tube. I used ordinary 1" steel pipe coupler used for plumbing. Its cheaper and less work. I dont have a drill press like Paul.

But, I cannot say that it will work... So far, 300 miles of use, no issues yet.






Cesar

[vpoppv]

Well, as it turns out, I'm glad I did the mockup first. It has become obvious that 1/2 aluminum plate would have been much too thick- or I would have needed to modify my coupler. I don't like modifying: it's like change, and I don't like change, it scares me. ev59rag, I do have a drill press. It was given to me. Parts fly off of it occasionally but the price was right. It threw the chuck at me today, that was NOT cool. At least it didn't throw Chuck at me, he weighs a lot. The hole saw I bought made one hole. It cost $17.99 so my budget was totally "fubared" as a result. I am in way over what my wallet can handle. I might have to stop this conversion if money doesn't start rolling in. But I digress: I tried to cut a second hole, but the hole saw just laughed. I swear it should say on the package "for single use only". For $17.99 I feel cheated. So I had to use a Dremel. I love that Dremel. Tomorrow I should have the adapter plate mockup finished.

[Christ]

Cheap hole saw - heat up a hacksaw blade and form it around a piece of exhaust tubing.. tack weld it in place, then grind the welds smooth. Tack a piece of metal across the back of the tubing with a bolt/nut in it that sticks upward about 2", slide bolt into the drill's chuck, and go to town. If it breaks, it didn't even cost $3...

[vpoppv]

Christ, I like your hole-ier than thou aptitude. It would mean I'd have to get my welder out of storage. Although, he's been in there a while and I haven't fed him, so he might not be very helpful. I think I'm done with holes for a while though. Except the one in my wallet.

[Christ]

Hey, I'm always good for a redneck tool or two... I hate buying stuff that I can make.