Picked up another stray (bike): 1962 CCM singlespeed

[Sven7]

Lucky duck getting to work on bikes in your down time at work! Better than being on forums lol.

[MetroMPG]

Oh, it wasn't exactly down time. I just wanted to play with the bike. (My clients already have low expectations.)

---

I spent an hour or so with some steel wool & penetrating oil on the weekend and most of the chrome cleaned up nicely.

I've been riding it around a lot. I can confirm it's still a pretty terrible bike to ride (single speed, duh). But it's definitely amusing.

[Sven7]

Be sure to put some wax or something on that chrome so the oxide doesn't bloom up again!

Did you rebuild the coaster hub? I recently started mechanically refurbishing a '74 Schwinn Stingray a friend sold me, and it's quite difficult to pedal. The hub is the last thing I have to regrease on the bike, so I'm wondering if you might have a similar problem.

Or it could just be the single speed

[MetroMPG]

Didn't really rebuild it: just took it apart, cleaned and re-greased.

It's not what I'd call "hard" to pedal, but the rear axle bearing races aren't smooth, so there's some lumpy resistance for sure. You don't really notice it on the road, but if you turn the crank by hand it's obvious.

[Grant-53]

Getting the ball bearings totally clean may be the hardest part if they are not loose. The other consideration is adjusting the play on the bearings. When putting the hub back together allow enough free play so that when the axle nuts are tightened against the frame there is no drag. make sure all the links in the chain are free also.

Waxing the chrome and spokes helps but if you have a store that sells CRC Marine Clear spray, that is awesome protection against salt corrosion. Rustoleum or automotive clear coats work well on all components and acrylic enamel is safe to use over most paints.

[Sven7]

Sounds like rebuilding to me! Anyway, maybe it would be worth it to you in enjoyment to get new races and bearings at the LBS. They'd probably last another 50 years.

[MetroMPG]

I think it's good enough now. That was a rebuilding, huh?

Originally Posted by Grant-53

Getting the ball bearings totally clean may be the hardest part if they are not loose.

They aren't loose, no.

The other consideration is adjusting the play on the bearings. When putting the hub back together allow enough free play so that when the axle nuts are tightened against the frame there is no drag. make sure all the links in the chain are free also.

I'm sure it can use some fine-tuning.

It'll soon be put away anyway, despite today's freakish summer-like blast of weather we're getting from the south, winter is around the corner and I won't subject this old girl to harsh conditions & road salt. That's what the Pirate Bike (of unknown lineage) is for: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...-bike-300.html

[Grant-53]

My "new" winter bike is a curb side NEXT full suspension mountain bike. Different wheels, chain rings, fenders, seat tube rack, and full fairing will complete the build.

[changzuki]

Nice bike(s)!
Like to see them crop up from time-to-time.
I have two single-speed 50's Higgins Colorflows, one springer front, one not.

The older of the two was my first "big bike" 40 years ago!

~CrazyJerry

[Grant-53]

Picking the right bike is a bit more complicated than going to a store and picking the one that looks nice. Weather, terrain, and traffic density affect the type of bike whether hybrid, commuter, or road bike. Next is getting the frame sized properly for your body dimensions. I use Zinn Cycles online program for recommendations on frame, stem, and crank arm sizes. Gearing is a matter of plotting the steps between a suitable low and high. If you are in stop and go traffic without steep hills, an internal gear hub is easier to shift when stopped. I have a 24 spd Jamis Aragon 700C and a Huffy 3 spd 26" as favorites. The aluminum Jamis is great on hills and towing a trailer. The Huffy is slick in traffic. I have fairings and bags for both.