Plan is to remove the A/C of my '02 Corolla

[Kincurd]

For one, I never use it. Secondly, I hear it weighs a ton (50lbs or something?). The question is, is it simple enough to remove the A/C without compromising my heating? The heater is something I definitely need to keep.

The Haynes manual tells me how to remove things, but it assumes they will be reinstalled, and I'm not sure if removing the A/C system is as simple as simply removing it. It looks like I would be removing the following components:

A/C Receiver-drier/accumulator
A/C Compressor
A/C Condenser
A/C Evaporator Core
A/C expansion (orifice) tube

So the question on my mind is will I end up taking apart more than I should, and find out that I'm also compromising the heating, which is a necessity in the winter?

Weight reduction is first on my list, because it seems like it's a lot easier to take things away from my car, than to make and add things to it.

Sorry if this has already been thoroughly discussed, but I cannot find the information through a search. The only other real mod I've done to my car isn't really all that Eco, but it was a simple e85 conversion, so that I have more options at the pump. It hasn't been so economical yet, but you never know when petroleum will sky rocket (hopefully leaving e85's price alone).

[Daox]

I'd leave it in. 50 lb weight reduction isn't going to do anything noticeable for fuel economy. My Paseo has A/C in it, I never use it, but my wife does every now and then. Its not creating any problems and not tanking your mileage. I'd spend time doing something more worth while.

[Bow]

As a guy that has removed the AC from his "toy car", I can tell you ...

I removed the Compressor, Condenser, dryer and all the hose, etc from the engine bay of my '91 Nissan 240SX when the R12 system died and I got sick of throwing money at it. I left the under dash components so I wouldn't have to be creative closing up the heat ducting under the dash...

My compressor probably weighted 20 pounds MAX with oil. The condenser and other things weigh very little

The only time I regret removing it is when it rains, the defroster/defogger doesn't work very well/at all to de-fog the windshield.

Another thing to consider is that I'll bet you you will get better Fuel economy with the windows up and AC on that you will with the windows down at highway speeds.

For what it is worth, if it works, leave it in, the windshield defroster/defogger selection on your climate control uses it, even if you don't have it on...

[luvit]

my A/C doesn't work, but my defogger does.
should i leave in my A/C?

[NiHaoMike]

Just unplug the low side pressure control to force it to stay off.

[dremd]

I'd leave it if it works.
Definitely takes away from Re-Sale value when you get a new Vehicle.

[busypaws]

Removed my A/C on 97 Protege. Total weight of all removed components is 45lbs. I also removed Power steering which got rid a whole belt. I figure I gained a couple of HP not turnning the belt/PS pump, compressor flywheel. So if removing yours saves you a belt and some rotating components then go for it. Also better flow through radiator so grill block can be more agressive.
The reason I removed it was that stopped working and my commute is 5.5miles and 22 traffic lights. I'm removing as much weight as possible since aero stuff will not help me since I never get over 30mph.
First, Go to a local shop and spend 20 bucks to have them pump the system dry. That way you're saving the environment.
Now start unbolting everything, weighing it and take it to the metal recycling yard. Make sure you put back all the underbody plastic that you took off to get to the last bolts.
My evaporator was behind my glove box. So I pulled out the plastic box where it is kept. Take it out of the box and then tape up (duct tape, or equivalent) the holes in the box and the holes in the firewall. reinstall the plastic box that is now empty. That way all the air flow stays the same.
Good luck.

[Kincurd]

Originally Posted by Bow

As a guy that has removed the AC from his "toy car", I can tell you ...

I removed the Compressor, Condenser, dryer and all the hose, etc from the engine bay of my '91 Nissan 240SX when the R12 system died and I got sick of throwing money at it. I left the under dash components so I wouldn't have to be creative closing up the heat ducting under the dash...

My compressor probably weighted 20 pounds MAX with oil. The condenser and other things weigh very little

The only time I regret removing it is when it rains, the defroster/defogger doesn't work very well/at all to de-fog the windshield.

Another thing to consider is that I'll bet you you will get better Fuel economy with the windows up and AC on that you will with the windows down at highway speeds.

For what it is worth, if it works, leave it in, the windshield defroster/defogger selection on your climate control uses it, even if you don't have it on...

Yeah I'm pretty sure from the diagrams that my car would have that under-dash air-duct problem. I'd have to get creative, or simply not remove that part.

Thanks, and yes, I'm aware of the windows down thing. I don't roll them down to cool off. I usually just turn the plain fan on if anything.

The defrosters not working sounds pretty scary though, for someone like me who has to deal with ice and snow.

Also, I will probably keep these parts I remove intact and in storage in case I ever have to put them back on and resell.

[busypaws]

Just to make sure there are no misunderstandings. There have been many discussions on some of the forums here about A/C on or off when you are in a defrost situation. I just want to make sure your on the same page.

Most defrosters have two functions. Move the warm air up onto the glass to warm the glass so the moisture that is in the air does not condense on the glass and fog it up.
To make the defroster work faster most vehicles kick on the A/C when you are in defrost. The A/C removes some of moisture in the air making it less likely that moisture will condense on the glass. All A/C's pump cold air into the cabin and water out of the cabin. (that's the water dripping out under the car when the A/C is on)
So if you put all the vent/airflow parts back together properly you still get the warm air flowing up on the glass you just won't get the "Dry out the air" part of the A/C when on maximum defrost.
What this means is that if you're looking to melt ice on the outside of the glass there will be no effect. (Your still have to wait for engine to warm up so you get warm air). Removing the "fog" on the inside will be slower without an A/C.

[Kincurd]

Thank you for the clarification, and for all the posts. I feel a heck of a lot more confidant diving into this little project now.