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View Poll Results: If you replaced cat converter(s), which brand did you buy?
OEM (Honda) 1 10.00%
Walker 0 0%
Eastern Catalytic 0 0%
Magnaflow 2 20.00%
Bosal 0 0%
Davico 0 0%
Pacesetter 0 0%
Evan Fischer 0 0%
Other (please specify in your post) 7 70.00%
Voters: 10. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-01-2017, 03:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Unless you plan on keeping the car forever or installation is expensive, you might be better off financially going with another $110 cat.

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Old 09-01-2017, 03:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamsterpower View Post
If you get a failed/failing code, that is a symptom of issues upstream that must be fixed first. Often leaking injectors running way rich or bad O2 sensor. Those will clog or burn out the ceramic media.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby79 View Post
+1 on finding the cause of the failure insted of just fixing the symptoms of the failure.
Right. That. I think I even commented on that somewhere.

Well, of course the cat manufacturer is pointing the blame elsewhere, but they are using big words and pretty pictures, so they must be correct. Their example of an overheated catalytic converter:


Mine:


They do not show the inside, though. Mine is not melted at all, although a chunk of carbon came out of the bung hole. I have an "Atomic Beam" flashlight and cannot see anything in there, but I can see perfectly from one end to the other.

Quote:
Excessive rich fuel conditions and exhaust leaks ahead of the converter are prime examples. They result in higher than normal temperatures that can cause matting erosion and burn away or melt converter coatings. If temperatures are high enough, the ceramic substrate itself will melt and clog.
Look upstream for the culprit in a converter failure - Eastern Manufacturing

I called Mom's shop because I feel they have always been honest and good, but they were busy, so she said she would call me back with a quote. They use Magnaflow and Imco.

Imco? Great! I never heard of them!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JockoT View Post
A genuine Honda cat for my 2006 Jazz is 1200. If I only get 6 months out of my 85 one I can keep replacing it for 14 years before I spend that.
Doesn't Scotland do warranties?
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Old 09-01-2017, 04:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xist View Post
Doesn't Scotland do warranties?
Yes we do. I fully expect to get the rest of my time with this car without having to change the cat again. The cat will probably outlive the body shell.
My point was, I could change it every six months and still be in pocket.
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
. They result in higher than normal temperatures that can cause matting erosion and burn away or melt converter coatings. If temperatures are high enough, the ceramic substrate itself will melt and clog
I read this as a timeline/ sequence of events. First it matting erosion and burn away or melt converter coatings. The point of failure you may be at no deformation of the honeycomb. Then if the problem persists or gets worce then you melt the honeycomb.
Have you checked the operating temp with a IR temp gun? ($20 horbor fraight) at the end of a long +mi run would be good or rushhour.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I usually just knock out the honeycomb and drive on with the CEL. One time I bought a no-name cat for $120 and it didn't resolve the P0420 CEL.

I'd be more inclined to spoof the downstream O2 sensor via thread extension or some other method than wasting time and money trying to legitimately pass stupid inspections. That said, I wouldn't run a car that is smoking or otherwise running poorly.
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Old 09-02-2017, 03:58 AM   #16 (permalink)
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https://youtu.be/_hREmy9mEvs

https://youtu.be/JGBe5OQg410

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...nverter-face-/

They gained one or two horsepower in specific parts of the power band, while the rest was the same or a tiny bit lower.

If I decided to get rid of my car I would recycle it and install a straight pipe.

Turning precious metals into a mess confuses me.
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Old 09-02-2017, 04:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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The emissions tests, here in the UK, actually involve sampling the exhaust gas. It doesn't matter what the codes say, it is what comes out the tailpipe that decides whether the car is passed as fit for the road. No MOT, no insurance or Road Fund Licence. No insurance and if you are caught driving on the road the car can end up in the crusher!
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Old 09-02-2017, 08:51 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Not the crusher!

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Old 09-03-2017, 01:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
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We need that hear in the states
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1st gen cummins 91.5 dodge d250 ,HX35W/12/6 QSV
ehxsost manafulld wrap, Aero Tonto
best tank: distance 649gps mi 24.04 mpg 27.011usg
Best mpg : 31.32mpg 100mi 3.193 USG 5/2/20


Former
'83 GMC S-15 Jimmy 2door 2wd O/D auto 3.73R&P
'79 Chevy K20 4X4 350ci 400hp msd custom th400 /np205. 7.5-new 14mpg modded befor modding was a thing
87' Hyundai Excel
83 ranger w/87 2.9 L FI2wd auto 18mpg on the floor
04 Mitsubishi Gallant 2.4L auto 26mpg
06 Subaru Forrester XT(WRX PACKAGE) MT AWD Turbocharged 18 plying dirty best of 26mpg@70mph
95Chevy Blazer 4x4 auto 14-18mpg
04 Chevy Blazer 4x4 auto 16-22mpg


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Old 09-05-2017, 07:38 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I haven't personally replaced a cat converter yet, but I helped my friend and we used OEM and it hasn't caused any problems yet, afaik

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