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Old 03-14-2011, 03:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
Have the pivot points near the front wheel well with a cable to activate the air dam.
a choke cable (usually around 6 feet long) could work for that

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Old 03-14-2011, 04:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuzukiSteve View Post
Hmmm.... pool noodles. that might be exactly what I need to fill all the holes in my bumper.

I have been using a noodle to fill the lower gap for at least 6 weeks now.

Fits tight and easily removed if necessary .

Just had to get over the color, neon green...


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Old 03-14-2011, 04:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The classic lawn edging would probably work well here.
DIY home depot lip. - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum

It won't move... but it's cheap and will flex if it bumps something.

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Old 03-14-2011, 05:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COcyclist View Post
Rubber baseboard for use in kitchens comes in colors including black. It is cheap and flexible and already the right color for your vehicle.
Baseboard is too flexible and requires too much back support to use it fer my needs.
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:23 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenavy85 View Post
a choke cable (usually around 6 feet long) could work for that
That's what I was thinking...but I'm not sure 6' will make it from the center of the truck to the cab...it might need to be longer.

Why the center? Cause I need it to pull evenly from the center as the pivot points will be on the sides.
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darcane View Post
The classic lawn edging would probably work well here.
DIY home depot lip. - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum

It won't move... but it's cheap and will flex if it bumps something.

Mike
I just picked this 6" tall stuff from Ace Hardware. Gonna give it a shot and see how well it does on the trip home.
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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BamZipPow -
Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
Mustache only made it through one tank before it got "lost"...

However on the other side of it...got my best ever from Houston to Ardmore...26.98mpg! This run is usually around 21-23mpg.

So now I have this crazy idea fer an adjustable air dam. Something that I can pivot down fer highway speeds but allow it to bump up when it comes to obstacles. I might use another noodle fer the test material but eventually move on to something longer and durable.
I did something similar to that in my coroplast grill block :

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...lock-7603.html

However, I have since removed the grill block and have a two-piece spring mounted air dam.

Benefits :

- Robust failure. If the air-dam hits something, the zip-tie that connects the air-dam to the spring breaks and the air-dam just swings back. Replace the zip-tie and I'm off and running.

- No maintenance. Other than zip-tie replacement, it's set it and forget it.

Problems :

- A jack of one trade solution. For every spring there is an MPH where the spring will hold the air-dam at a vertical position in relation to the air stream. At lower MPH it will be angled into the air-stream. This might not be bad, but it would allow more air under the car. At a higher MPH it will be angled in the same directon as the air stream. Soooooo, you need to find the perfect spring for your needs.

- Stability of air-dam. Others have told me that my grill-block would be too unstable. When I did my video, you can see that it does wobble, but the "average" relationship to the air stream is stable. If you are in steady-state MPH, the grill-block maintains the same relationship to the air stream. With that said, I have seen the air-dam become more unstable when I am following a big truck because the air stream is turbulent.

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Last edited by cfg83; 03-14-2011 at 07:08 PM..
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Old 03-14-2011, 06:36 PM   #18 (permalink)
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A quick mockup...


That's about a 5" clearance.
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:22 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Thinking about cutting a slot on the inside of the bottom tube so I can insert the front edge of some 4mm Coroplast. This will provide a bottom to the adjustable air dam and also become an automatic return spring fer the air dam. Obviously the flutes will have to go front/back instead of side to side to provide the return force. It will be same shape as my extended air dam belly pan...just a little bit longer to provide an edge to the adjustable air dam.

Since I didn't plan on doing this mod away from home...I need to source some Coroplast locally. Might have to buy some instead of finding it fer free...oh well.

Looks like NuLine Signs will be my source...
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:38 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

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Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

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Here's what it looks like now...with only 2 screws holding it on (one per side).

6˝" clearance (up position)


4" clearance (down position)


Side views...



The top lip of the edging rests on the lip of the original stock air dam. Not sure if it would hold on during driving...that's why I want to git some Coroplast behind it to provide some support and smooth out the airflow (if any) that goes behind the adjustable air dam. Right now...I'd have to manually drop the air dam and lock it in place with some tape or the pegs the edging came with. I'll see if I can find and fab up a choke/throttle cable to do it from inside the cab later on today.

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