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Old 01-16-2012, 02:38 PM   #161 (permalink)
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****ing thing won't start. It turns over all day long but won't fire. Can't hear any buzzing from the fuel pump so it seems to be the problem.

+5 points for Geo Metro

BTW... IF I can get this running again, RELIABLY, the air dam is going to be about half the size it was. It was sticking down way too far, probably just plowing air out of the way.

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Old 01-16-2012, 02:44 PM   #162 (permalink)
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97 Geo Metro $500

only thing that bothers me:
Rusted frame -Front end needs welding or used part out

Does that mean the control arm is going to fall off?
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:15 PM   #163 (permalink)
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We would need good photos to get an idea of the rust. Since I live in michigan I KNOW cars rust out FAST. My 1990 Olds Cutlass Ciera had the rear end break loose from the body with only 101k miles on it 25mpg, great runner, and didn't drive it easy at all and was a mid sized car with a v6 3.3L known as a 3300 built by Olds, but used in several cars (my dad is a olds fan, king of torque with a lil modding).

A lot of front wheel drive cars have issues with the engine cradle where it bolts to the body of the car with either rusted out washers or the actual metal of the cradle rusts away, very very common on cars with the v6 3300 (3.3L) like my old car was and is how my dad originally picked it up for $200, fixed it in the lady's driveway (washers) and drove it home and she was scared he was going to die lol. If the actual cradle is rusted out, there isn't a lot of hope, if you can't do the work your self (pulling engine etc) then you would be better off buying another car. If it isn't too bad, but getting bad I would say keep driving it but start looking for a cheap car asap.

If you can't hear the fuel pump, then that should be what is wrong. What I would do is go under the hood, find the relay for the pump and follow wires to find what is positive and negative. Then look at the diagram on the relay to see which pins are shorted when energized (straight across I think). Then take a jumper wire and jump the power to the pump to see if it runs. If it does then it is either a fuse is blown (visual check) or the relay don't work (does it click when you turn the key on?). Some cars don't run the pump at all after the fuel system is up to pressure but engine isn't running, so crank it a little (around a second) and listen.

For a more accurate voltage meter, I would say a digital multimeter would be simple enough. Ground the black wire anywhere there is metal (seat bolt comes to mind) and the positive needs to run to a power supply wire such as for the radio or directly to the battery. Only problem is the fact it runs on battery and wont stay on for a long time. If an analog one is used, I think it could be setup to not use batteries but could be hard to get good readings since the needle tends to move easy. I think automotive ones have something to slow down that effect.


Just searched for a few different types of cars that I'm sure have plenty of room for better MPG and have a good starting spot already (30mpg+) and came up with a few under $1000. Most are closer to me (mid michigan) and further down is closer to you.

Toyota Corolla 1990

$350! - '91 Toyota Corolla

$950 for a 99 is cheap but over heats (coolent issues I bet, my Camry NEVER runs the fan driving) infact I had a 1991 corolla that I beat the snot out of in the woods and it never kicked the fans on expect when I was mudding it while rev limiting, and after a few passes blowing out the timing belt! - 99 toyota corolla

$500 camry - '93 TOYOTA CAMRY (my dad picked up a lot of them, this one screams power steering delete, but I haven't tested my own if that is a good idea or not)

Honda accord $750 - 93 honda accord


Found a honda civic within 10 miles of me for $650! Needs CV axles, I think that is my new project areo car . Good luck car hunting if you need to replace the Anal Probe .

EDIT: Dang Civic must have sold, checked listing when I got up and it is deleted now .

I reread your post above, first time I completely missed the Geo link. I don't know much about Geos, my dad said they are a built on the bit of the tin-y side and lowend engine problems are pretty common. Them links auto naming really throws me off lol.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:45 PM   #164 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sven7 View Post
97 Geo Metro $500

only thing that bothers me:
Rusted frame -Front end needs welding or used part out

Does that mean the control arm is going to fall off?

I can't find it right now but someone did a thread on welding the front end of a Metro where they usually rust out. Seems it was the strut brace.

Kirk
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:27 AM   #165 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FXSTi View Post
I can't find it right now..
Kirk
Top result from using the bloody search function with the string "weld metro":

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...here-4380.html
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:32 AM   #166 (permalink)
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The GeoMetroForum.com has loads of projects with welding, and loads of pics of them before and after.
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Old 01-17-2012, 12:06 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Point being, I can't weld and if there's rust there there's rust elsewhere. It's going to cost me money and time instead of buying a decent example. So I'll wait until I graduate and save up some money. Then search CL in the $500-$1200 range instead of $22-$700. Or just buy one out of state.

However if the fuel pump works and the car runs fine from there I won't be so set on a Metro. In fact I'd rather have a Saab Sonett V4 project than 70mpg. So if there isn't a pressing reason to get rid of the Probe it will be lower priority in the scheme of things.

Then again if the fuel pump doesn't work I'll be selling it and using the money for hookers and blow.

BTW, my parts friend got me some NGK spark plugs a step hotter than the stock ones, hopefully for better combustion (?). I'll have to make up some giant NGK logos to stencil onto the car lol

Anything else custom might wait until graduation when I have two other vehicles for backup.
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Old 01-17-2012, 02:11 PM   #168 (permalink)
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Before you have too many cars around, I would check local laws to be sure there are no requirements to keeping them. Most cities require insurance and a current plate.

Also about your skills with welding... never say can't.. welding is actually really easy and simple. My first time welding was one of them high school trips to colleges to see what field you are interested in. I was able to use a wire feed welder and the guy watching me was shocked at how good it looked. Google how to weld and play around with some scrap metal (thick!) to get an idea, then weld similar metal as what the car has.

Fixing the prob should be the cheapest way to get around and there would be an option to taking it to a shop, but ask about diag fees first and make sure the estimate isn't out of your range (i would say no more than $300-400 max, but should be ~$150-200ish).

Talked with my dad real quick, who makes a living fixing cars, about your car and he said best way to check if the pump is working and the engine is getting fuel would be to look on the top of your engine where the fuel rail is. There should be a spot with a cap similar to the valve stem caps on your tires but a bit larger. Take it off and take a small screw driver to push down on the middle pin and stay back. If fuel shoots out all over, fuel isn't your problem and I would suspect ignition (spark). Just be careful and don't try to start the car till it all dries up. If it has no pressure (after cycling the key of course) then the engine isn't getting gas, so the pump isn't getting power or the pump is shot.

For the subject on spark plugs, typically it is best to stick to the factory brand of plug, for ford it is motorcraft, but don't let that stop you from using it. However, if you see a large decline in MPG, I would blame the wrong plugs. NGK is a good brand, so it should be fine.

On the side of money, check to see if there are any metal scrap yards near you, that is if you have storage area (outside). If you do, keep an eye out for metal things out to the trash that isn't too far from your house, or if it is small enough, just pick it up. Keep in mind this stuff goes fast. Scrap metal in my area is $275 per ton, and even small things are good to pick up. I would say min weight go for at least 10 pounds ($1.37). For larger things, you will want to know someone with a small truck to hull in the collected metal in bulk. Avoid things that contain hazardous waste or things bad for the environment such as a refrigerator or AC unit, they contain freon which is illegal and ozone damaging if released. Since your surfing craigslist, there might be a few freebies on there, you never know. You could target cars too, but there is more prep work, but the work pays . Normal mid size car is about 1.5 tons ($420) + the cat, radiator, starter, alt, copper wire, etc you can pull quickly, should get easy $450-500. Of course if you don't know anyone with a way to hull this stuff, it would be a null point except to have an idea how much the probe is worth as scrap.

Good luck with the probe.
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Old 01-17-2012, 04:08 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Point being, I can't weld ...

Then again if the fuel pump doesn't work I'll be selling it and using the money for hookers and blow.
Bl@@dy students...


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Old 01-17-2012, 10:56 PM   #170 (permalink)
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ps2fixer,

My Probe is parked in the school parking ramp and my other two are plated and parked on my house in rural-ish MN. I'm not worried.

My uncle gave me a quick lesson in welding years ago but I'll have to get a job and buy a welder before anything happens.

I only have the money for the parts- that's one reason I am ecomodding: to save money. That said, I have a decent number of car friends who are willing to help me figure things out and work on stuff. Some nice drawings as thank-yous should keep the favors coming

I'm going to have someone help me look for spark before we squirt fuel everywhere. Since the pump wasn't buzzing I think it's that.

Yes, NGK is reputable. The new alt is a Mitsubishi. Good parts keep cars running.

I don't have the time or a working car to go pick up scrap metal. If I did there are plenty of abandoned buildings to pick from but I'm not going to stoop to that. I can get easy money drawing cars for people. ($20/hr) The main problem is that I'm taking 19 credits this semester and barely have enough time to be posting here and on Flickr, not to mention urban exploring, bicycling and thrift shopping.

That said, I have been researching aerodynamic motorcycles. Thinking a teardrop 49cc Honda for a summer vehicle... 200mpg would be rad. Unsure whether mopeds can be registered as full on motorcycles in MN because <49cc is restricted to <30mph. If I had a motorcycle it would have to do at least 55mph to function as a commuter or runabout.

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