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Old 06-22-2015, 09:15 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Location: Chicago area
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sc1 - '98 saturn sc1
Team Saturn
90 day: 43.17 mpg (US)

Airplane Bike - '11 home built Carp line Tour

rans - '97 rans tailwind

tractor - '66 International Cub cadet 129

2002 Space Odyssey - '02 Honda Odyssey EX-L
90 day: 28.25 mpg (US)

red bug - '00 VW beetle TDI

big tractor - '66 ford 3400

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90 day: 58.42 mpg (US)
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Just build it, the 1.25 inch tube is too small, use 2.0x.035 cr-mo tube

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Old 06-23-2015, 10:09 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Location: Warren, MI
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Boo Radley - '65 Ford F100
90 day: 13.28 mpg (US)
Thanks: 782
Thanked 664 Times in 407 Posts
1.25" is too small, even with all those gussets (I've been planning on this size since October)? I'd rather not redraw the entire blueprint; could I just use thicker tubing of the same diameter?
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Old 06-27-2015, 12:59 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Location: Coastal Southern California
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Black and Green - '98 Honda Civic DX Coupe
Team Honda
90 day: 64.33 mpg (US)

Black and Red - '00 Nashbar Custom built eBike
90 day: 3671.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 1,855
Thanked 1,552 Times in 1,056 Posts
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.

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Old 04-17-2016, 09:31 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Location: Warren, MI
Posts: 2,456

Boo Radley - '65 Ford F100
90 day: 13.28 mpg (US)
Thanks: 782
Thanked 664 Times in 407 Posts
So much time has passed.

I apparently lost the pink bike's headset. I think it went out with the recycling at some point. Shooooot. So I sourced a Raleigh Grand Prix frame with bent seat stay for free from a friend. I chopped it apart and realized the top and down tubes are the same size I'd been planning on using, so I no longer have to buy tube stock.

With a new angle grinder in my hands, I cleaned the lugs off the Raleigh's head tube and with a hole saw got 90% done fishmouthing the new down tube. Next is to work on the down tube to "top" (bottom?) tube junction and to work the second (free spirit-sourced) head tube into that. And cut a couple gussets for my friend to weld in when he does the other stuff. At this point, the split-apart folding frame idea is off the table. It's too much complexity for little benefit.

My new push is to get this made into a frame (probably not even really painted) by a week and a half from now, if that is possible, so I can show it with my trailers and fatbike at the "Maker Fest" at work on the 28th IIRC. A long shot is to get it rideable and ride it to the MHPVA race at Waterford Hills in June. I don't know if I'll make that, but it's a good goal to am for.

Updated price/cost list:
Wheels
Front hub (Sturmey Archer XRD-8(W)) and 20T cog-....$166, Bikeparts.com
Rear hub (Shimano Deore disc front)-........................$21, Universal Cycles (UC)
Chrome 36h rims.............................................. .....$40, Calhoun Cycles
Spokes, store bought + nipples.................................$40, UC
Custom-cut front spokes.........................................$36 , Brooklyn Bike Doctor
Tires (Maxxis Hookworm)......................................... $40, UC
Rim strips and tubes............................................. ..$12, UC

Brakes
Rear caliper (Hayes MX5 cable disc from a friend's bike)..$30
Rear rotor (Tektro 160mm)........................................$20, UC
Levers............................................ .......................$free/parts bin
Front brake is a drum, included in hub price

Donor Bikes
Huffy [Granite?] (former winter commuter)....................$25/parts bin
-BB and frame segments
-Threaded steer tube

70's Schwinn Exerciser......................................... ....$10/parts bin
-65T chainring
-Minty Schwinn oval head badge
-Assorted tubing
-Minty BB bearings

80s Free Spirit Dynasty 10spd...................................free
-headset for under seat steering
-(the rest of the bike will be donated to the LBS)

Raleigh Grand Prix.............................................. ......free
-head tube
-frame tubing
-stem, maybe

Other
Crank, one piece (Schwinn Stingray or similar).............$5, East Side Bike Shop
Pedals (Shimano SPD).............................................$ free from a friend
Trek forks (2) to use for rear fork...............................$free from a friend

Welding
Front fork.............................................. ...............traded for snow tires

Frame welding jig
MDF 4x8............................................... .................$28, Menards
1/2 pint funnel x4 (to center headsets)......................$2



TOTAL
$477

22 April: Price list updated to reflect jig building costs.
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He gave me a dollar. A blood-soaked dollar.
I cannot get the spot out but it's okay; It still works in the store

Last edited by Sven7; 04-22-2016 at 08:06 PM..
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Old 04-24-2016, 05:04 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Warren, MI
Posts: 2,456

Boo Radley - '65 Ford F100
90 day: 13.28 mpg (US)
Thanks: 782
Thanked 664 Times in 407 Posts
Wooooo! I got it welded! After working for 15+ hours this week I got a jig made of 3/4" MDF and leftover 2x4 scraps. I did my best with the tools I had; the miter saw was very useful! I then prepped the rest of the tubing, with a few different options for alternate welding strategies. I am not a welder, so I wasn't sure which would work best.

I took it over to a friend's house and he worked for three hours to get it put together while I made inconsequential design decisions. There were quite a few loose ends to tie up but it's together now. I'm gaining tons of experience that I'll be able to use on a hypothetical version 2.

When I got the bearing races pressed back in at the LBS I had them weigh the bare frame without fork. 3 lbs, 14 ounces. Not bad for a steel frame.

If this is all the further I get before the show at work, that's okay. I'm tired and broke, haha.





Next on the list:
-Get bearings and a stem that fit the rear steer tube; install.
-Center the crankset to get the chainline reasonable.
-Grind the front dropouts longer to have a little chain tensioning capability.
-Mock up rear brake mount.
-Start to build seat.
-Acquire heim joints, etc to hook up the remote steering.
-Add cable stops and other cable routing hardware
-Install shifter/brake levers/chain

At that point the bike should be rideable around the block.

Updated list. Welding cost more than I had hoped, but I could have planned the thing better so it took a lot of time. Live and learn.
------------------

Wheels
Front hub (Sturmey Archer XRD-8(W)) and 20T cog-....$166, Bikeparts.com
Rear hub (Shimano Deore disc front)-........................$21, Universal Cycles (UC)
Chrome 36h rims.............................................. .....$40, Calhoun Cycles
Spokes, store bought + nipples.................................$40, UC
Custom-cut front spokes.........................................$36 , Brooklyn Bike Doctor
Tires (Maxxis Hookworm)......................................... $40, UC
Rim strips and tubes............................................. ..$12, UC

Brakes
Rear caliper (Avid BB5 cable disc from my fatbike).....$free
Rear rotor (Tektro 160mm)........................................$20, UC
Levers, Avid.................................... .......................$free/parts bin
Front brake is a drum, included in hub price

Donor Bikes
Huffy [Granite?] (former winter commuter)....................$25/parts bin
-BB and frame segments
-Threaded steer tube

70's Schwinn Exerciser......................................... ....$10/parts bin
-65T chainring
-Minty Schwinn oval head badge
-Assorted tubing
-Minty BB bearings & cups

80s Free Spirit Dynasty 10spd...................................free
-headset for under seat steering
-(the rest of the bike will be donated to the LBS)

Raleigh Grand Prix.............................................. ......free
-head tube
-frame tubing
-stem, maybe

Steering
Rear headset cups, incl installation.............................traded for parts
SR aluminum stem.............................................. ......traded for parts
Bar ends (not sure if I'll use them)...............................$25


Other
Crank, one piece (Schwinn Stingray or similar).............$5, East Side Bike Shop
Pedals (Shimano SPD).............................................. $ free from a friend
Trek forks (2) to use for rear fork................................$free from a friend

Welding
Front fork.............................................. ...............traded for snow tires
Frame............................................. ......................$200

Frame welding jig
MDF 4x8............................................... .................$28, Menards
1/2 pint funnel x4 (to center headsets)......................$2


TOTAL
$672
__________________
He gave me a dollar. A blood-soaked dollar.
I cannot get the spot out but it's okay; It still works in the store

Last edited by Sven7; 05-01-2016 at 10:07 PM.. Reason: Updated day 122
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:48 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Location: Warren, MI
Posts: 2,456

Boo Radley - '65 Ford F100
90 day: 13.28 mpg (US)
Thanks: 782
Thanked 664 Times in 407 Posts
Quick update.

The 'bent drew quite a few interested visitors at the Maker Fest! It was a good time.

I wasn't planning on painting the fork for a while, but had the bottom bracket cups out so figured why not. It's a nice light blue now, but you'll see pictures eventually when something more interesting happens.

I threw in a spacer washer to move the crankset to the drive side just a few mils but that turned out to be both too little to straighten out the chain line and too much for the washer/nut stackup on the non drive side. So that idea's out the window.

What I'm figuring on doing to solve that is to mount the chainring normally without a spacer, then to create a two-piece chainring system. I'll cut the outside part off the chainring that's mounted to the crank, and that'll act as a carrier. Then I'll cut the inside out of another chainring and bolt that to the carrier via the 6 holes they all have. That should give me the opportunity to space it as little or as much as I need to straighten the chain line, but still have proper BB adjustment and crankarm clearance.

Lastly, I got new rear headset bearing cups at the LBS, so the rear steer tube is installed. Finding a good stem/handlebar combo to fit the 10-spd steer tube is the next challenge. I can file down the stem I have to fit the just-barely-larger-diameter handlebars, or find a stem that fits correctly. Money versus time. Stay tuned!

link for personal reference
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...FQ6maQod2KwGKg
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He gave me a dollar. A blood-soaked dollar.
I cannot get the spot out but it's okay; It still works in the store

Last edited by Sven7; 05-01-2016 at 09:59 PM..
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Old 06-14-2017, 01:25 AM   #77 (permalink)
Cyborg ECU
 
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
Posts: 5,213

Black and Green - '98 Honda Civic DX Coupe
Team Honda
90 day: 64.33 mpg (US)

Black and Red - '00 Nashbar Custom built eBike
90 day: 3671.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 1,855
Thanked 1,552 Times in 1,056 Posts
Any update on this project?

__________________


See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.

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