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Old 11-27-2009, 05:52 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Nice work! Just getting caught up on your thread, I must say I'm quite jealous. Interested to see what kind of numbers you'll pump out come summer.

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Old 11-27-2009, 07:07 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Thermostat stuck open, maybe?
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:13 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I get 4 bars in .5 mile and 6 bars in .7 mile.

Needs a thermostat.

Nissan thermostats fail open, I would guess yours is similar.

Seriously consider OE as they seem to warm up much faster than a lot of aftermarket, and I particularly like a thermostat that fails open instead of closed.

Should help your mileage a lot, if it was not warming up properly.

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Old 11-27-2009, 11:19 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
I get 4 bars in .5 mile and 6 bars in .7 mile.


That's an amazingly fast warm-up. If I could warm up that fast, I bet I could get 70mpg on the way to work. Currently, the first half of my commute is at 50mpg, and the second half is at 80mpg. I'll have to get a thermostat on Monday.

SVOBoy, shouldn't you be getting the IRX on the road instead of reading my thread? By the way, when you deleted your rear wiper, where did you get the plug to plug the hole in the glass?
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:59 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Hope it helps. From your description I would think it would make a difference in the whole trip, especially if your t-stat is never allowing the car to get to its designed operating temperature.

My drive is .3 miles out of my neighborhood, then a left on a 55 MPH highway.

All 3 of my cars are warm within .2 miles of the same place.

I start and go, no waiting. My original 37 Ford that still had the 6 volt system with a starter cranking speed of 100 RPM, would produce 60 PSI oil pressure in less than 5 seconds cranking. That was with the ignition off. It had a starter button that did not require the ignition to be on to work. I like to crank it until it got pressure before I fired it up, since it sat for at least a week between drives.

Also I like to keep a load on the engine when it's warming up. I get the Echo in 4th or 5th gears going 25 in the .3 mile neighborhood leg. Keeping the revs low gets it warm faster with less fuel. It will actually go 25 in 5th with my foot off the gas at fast idle.

I have seen the auto stop on the Insight function within .3 miles of my house, at the stop sign where I turn left on the main highway.

I love your resurrection, enjoy mega mileage.

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Old 11-28-2009, 11:13 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Have you "burped" the cooling system per the book?
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Old 11-29-2009, 07:46 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Have you "burped" the cooling system per the book?
No, I just poured it in through the upper rad hose, and filled the radiator. I also didn't burp after I fixed the coolant leak at the IACV.

My parts should arrive on Tuesday or Wednesday.
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:25 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
My original 37 Ford that still had the 6 volt system with a starter cranking speed of 100 RPM, would produce 60 PSI oil pressure in less than 5 seconds cranking. That was with the ignition off. It had a starter button that did not require the ignition to be on to work. I like to crank it until it got pressure before I fired it up, since it sat for at least a week between drives.
I really ought to do that with my car since it also often sits weeks at a time. I can crank and prevent ignition by holding my kill switch. Thanks for the idea.

Robert: hope your t-stat fixes the problem. You're going to see a nice efficiency boost.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:03 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Burping the cooling system is easy. Fill rad to top and overflow jug to midway between cold and hot marks.

Start engine and crack the bleeder open while it is warming up. When you get no more air out of the bleeder, let it cool down and repeat the process again when its cold.

I have seen dealers not do this properly because they are not willing to wait for the cool down for the second bleed.

When its properly bled the overflow jug level will rise and drop when its warm and cold respectively. If you are not sure it is completely purged, just crack the bleeder again until no air or bubbles come out.

regards
Mech
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Old 12-02-2009, 02:42 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Thanks, OldMech. Since it's easy, I'll do that.

I'm just about ready to start refurbishing the IMA battery. My battery charger/discharger/analyzer is supposed to arrive early next week, and I already got a spare IMA battery (for $15!!), so the car should have no interruption to its hybridness while I work on the battery.

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