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Old 10-20-2015, 10:36 AM   #31 (permalink)
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If the weight ratio F/R is 55/45 this is acceptable. Wheel base is typically twice front track width. Take into consideration cold starting a diesel engine in our region. A circulating block heater is what they use on the snow plow trucks. The only issue I have with the XR3 is the use of fiberglass interior panels. ABS or aluminum honeycomb is friendlier in a crash. A trike frame from 1 inch square tubing could be done at a shop in a few days. The electrical harness might take a bit longer depending on experience. Foam and fiberglass are the most labor intensive aspects. I would love to build a trike using the paper model skin for the Mercedes Benz C-111 and add the long Mk III tail.

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Old 10-20-2015, 02:09 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecoboy View Post
Thanks. How far back should it be from the front axle?
If you would use a longitudinal engine, mounting it behind the transmission like it was done in some French cars would help. With a transverse engine, slanting it a little backwards would be the best option, and it would also allow a more aerodynamic design.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:18 PM   #33 (permalink)
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RE: Why a 100 mpg reverse trike

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Originally Posted by HydroJim View Post
Check out some of my old threads. Keep in mind these are 3 years old and from my high school days. I was full of hopes and dreams back then. I think a lot of it is still good information though.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...age-24039.html

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ike-25266.html

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ike-23955.html

Not Yet Named Reverse Trike | Reverse Trike

I'm hoping to revive this project for my senior design project in a few years. Hopefully you can use what I've learned so far and put it to good use. In my opinion, I think the most cost effective option is to buy a cheap geo metro, chop everything off behind the B pillar, weld up a custom tubular steel frame, attach a rear wheel and suspension, drop in a gas tank, and start driving. You have to be super cognizant of your center of gravity and weight distribution but it can be done.
HydroJim,

Thanks for posting up those links. It looks like you have put alot of thought into this. I would have to agree with the you on the Metro karate chop is the fastest way to get a fwd reverse trike going.

Also, you are way to young to give up on your high school dreams. Don't get discouraged by failed attempts or road blocks just keep at it. Eventually you will get there.

In order to see something like this happen there has to be a compelling reason.


In other words why do we want a FWD reverse trike that can get 100 MPG?

Watch this video about why apple products work

TED Talk: Why Do People Buy Apple Products

Next ask yourself how you can apply that same thinking to a fdw reverse trike.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:39 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr View Post
If you would use a longitudinal engine, mounting it behind the transmission like it was done in some French cars would help. With a transverse engine, slanting it a little backwards would be the best option, and it would also allow a more aerodynamic design.
Does any trike have that layout? Is it needed?
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Old 10-20-2015, 11:03 PM   #35 (permalink)
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RE: How much does that Honeycomb Aluminum weight per sq ft

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Originally Posted by Grant-53 View Post
If the weight ratio F/R is 55/45 this is acceptable. Wheel base is typically twice front track width. Take into consideration cold starting a diesel engine in our region. A circulating block heater is what they use on the snow plow trucks. The only issue I have with the XR3 is the use of fiberglass interior panels. ABS or aluminum honeycomb is friendlier in a crash. A trike frame from 1 inch square tubing could be done at a shop in a few days. The electrical harness might take a bit longer depending on experience. Foam and fiberglass are the most labor intensive aspects. I would love to build a trike using the paper model skin for the Mercedes Benz C-111 and add the long Mk III tail.

I think you got a good idea with the Honeycomb Aluminum and square tube looked it up today good stuff. Any idea how much it weighs per sq ft?

Also what size tube for the main chasis and wall thickness?
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:20 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Since materials come in various thicknesses you would need to get information from the supplier. The sheets I have are 0.355" thick and one person could handle the 5x10 foot panel. Figure half the weight of plywood. Same applies to tubing alloy and wall thickness. Racing organizations (NHRA, NASCAR, SCCA) have their rules for frame safety and roll cages. Federal auto standards call for a static load on the roof of three times vehicle weight.
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:20 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Lee View Post
Does any trike have that layout? Is it needed?
The only trikes with longitudinally-mounted engines that I've ever seen had the engine at the rear. Anyway, having the engine weight closer to the center of the wheelbase would make it safer in hilly roads.
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Old 11-05-2015, 02:16 PM   #38 (permalink)
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The two plans from Robert Riley are the older RWD motorcycle engine and the XR3 FWD 3 cyl. diesel. If I read right the XR3 uses a VW type I gear box which can be run either way depending on the ring gear position. Subaru and Chrysler also use inline FWD trans-axles. Make sure there is enough crush space and working room between the front bumper and the passenger cell.
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:06 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:17 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant-53 View Post
If I read right the XR3 uses a VW type I gear box which can be run either way depending on the ring gear position.
That would be my choice if I were going to make a custom FWD tricycle with longitudinal engine too.


Quote:
Subaru and Chrysler also use inline FWD trans-axles.
I can't remember any longitudinally-engined FWD Chrysler right now.

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