Reducing ride height by "resetting" coil springs

[user removed]

Cutting a part of the coil off with a die grinder works great if you want it lower and slightly stiffer. Think of the spring stretched out straight like a torsion bar. AS you make it shorter it gets harder to twist it the same amount.

regards
Mech

[Ladogaboy]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

Why's that? All the suspensions I've seen have rubber bumpers for cushioning any bottoming out. I'd think at the worst, you'd be hitting them more often than desired.

I used stock gas charged struts for my lowering job. It's been so long since I've dropped that car (about 2") I can't remember how old they are... must be going on 8 years or so with no issues.

As I understand it, by shortening the spring, the shock/damper stays at a more compressed state than it is designed for. And even under ideal operating conditions, shocks/dampers will eventually need to be rebuilt or replaced. Of course, maybe I'm just too used to dealing with performance cars. Regardless, as they say, YMMV.

[mwebb]

it is very common
for me
to see lowered cars with smoked tires , smoked on the inside , due to the camber change caused by those
"professional" springs that have been installed in VWs without the follow up of correctly adjusting the camber back to where the specification shows that it belongs

FRONT camber in later VWs is very much UN adjustable on otherwise stock cars.

as a rule
the aftermarket performance springs are pure crap , and sag more after a short amount of use. rendering the car not usable for many normal activities

, yes
it seems like a good idea , but there is more to it than shorter springs

[Ladogaboy]

Originally Posted by mwebb

as a rule
the aftermarket performance springs are pure crap , and sag more after a short amount of use. rendering the car not usable for many normal activities

I would hate to say "as a rule" in this case. Most aftermarket springs are crap and will sag over time, but some aftermarket spring manufacturers do put a lot of effort and engineering into their springs.

[Frank Lee]

I did have the alignment checked after the drop... all was within spec- camber in front just barely, but still in; camber out back just barely out, but equal side to side! Tires and everything wearing nicely even.

[Sven7]

Originally Posted by mwebb

it is very common
for me
to see lowered cars with smoked tires , smoked on the inside , due to the camber change caused by those
"professional" springs that have been installed in VWs without the follow up of correctly adjusting the camber back to where the specification shows that it belongs

FRONT camber in later VWs is very much UN adjustable on otherwise stock cars.

as a rule
the aftermarket performance springs are pure crap , and sag more after a short amount of use. rendering the car not usable for many normal activities

, yes
it seems like a good idea , but there is more to it than shorter springs

People who don't get alignments after lowering are just plain neglecting their cars. I got the cheapest coilovers available for my Rabbit, dropped it within 4" of the ground, and haven't had a real problem (It blew out new OEM strut bearings within a week or so but doesn't ride any worse). The suspension "settles" within a few days or so, resulting in about an inch lower than you set it, but after a year (including quite a bit of full-on racing), I haven't noticed "sag". Where have you seen this? Personal experience?

I don't imagine paying someone to reheat your springs would exactly be economical. Why not just get, for instance, Suzuki Swift GTi suspension for your Metro? I'm sure it's available, and not at an exorbitant cost. My Rabbit's coils were $260 with free shipping and a two year warranty.

('81 Rabbit Convertible 1.7L with TuningArt adjustable coilover suspension)

[user removed]

On my Maxima the rear axle is a beam, so no camber change would occur. The fronts are struts and to the best of my knowledge you would have to enlarge the upper strut to spindle mounting hole to change the camber setting if that was necessary. AS long as you did not lower the car more than it would be lowered carrying it's maximum rated capacity then you should stay within specs on camber, but that is not guaranteed.

Again mwebb gives you good information which should be seriously considered before beginning any modification. You should also consider the load capacity of the vehicle to be much less weight after such a modification.

regards
Mech

[jime57]

Originally Posted by Old Mechanic

Cutting a part of the coil off with a die grinder works great if you want it lower and slightly stiffer. Think of the spring stretched out straight like a torsion bar. AS you make it shorter it gets harder to twist it the same amount.

regards
Mech

This is exactly right!

My own experience with shortening the springs with a torch has all been bad. You change the temper in the metal so badly that the spring is quite likely to break - several of mine did. I found that a cut-off wheel on a small grinder worked best.

[Frank Lee]

I used a chop saw.

[jime57]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

I used a chop saw.

That works also, but one should not expect to do it with a hack saw. The metal is very hard!