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Old 12-23-2017, 01:07 PM   #21 (permalink)
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So, Shouty Kilmer went full Shouty.

Never go full Shouty.

RedPoint, why did you link the image of a video? Fortunately, Brave allowed me to search for the image (Hey! It saved me a few steps!), but for some bizarre reason, that led me to a completely unrelated video on the same channel about finding and destroying knocks. Here is the correct video:

I was still trying to find that when Shouty did his live chat, so I gave that a try. I e-mailed him, he ignored me, and when it ended I asked on his website. He responded!

Unfortunately, he went full Shouty: "heck, cut the wires feeding the driver's low beam and splice those wires into the other side that's working. I do that All the time and bypass computer crap that breaks them."

1. Bypass wires
2. ????
3. Profit!

I am going to set my multimeter to stun and try something less dramatic.


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Old 12-23-2017, 04:02 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I did that back on my 89 Accord. The connector for one side headlamp was badly corroded, so I dug three wires out of the junk drawer in the kitchen, tucked the ends in at the other lamp's plug and ran them over to the side with the bad connector. Bam! Back up to 2 headlights at the cost of some scrap wire and electrical tape, without having to resort to learning anything about electricity.
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Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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Old 12-23-2017, 04:03 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Shouty and I are having a similar thought. Does the car have DRLs (daytime running lights)? If so it could be something in the circuit/brains that control that. If so he's right -- just wire the left one up to the right one and declare success.
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Old 12-23-2017, 04:05 PM   #24 (permalink)
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The real question is: Do you want All To Be Right, or do you just want to have the right number of lamps working?
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Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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Old 12-23-2017, 04:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Hey guys! ChrisFix here!

Okay, Red Green, let me at least try to do it right first, all right?

Another celebrity gave me his opinion:
Quote:
Cutting and splicing the wires wont work, that will just cause a fuse to blow. Check to see if the connection to the pigtail is bad.
Shouty's way may work fine, but I know that when people on here talk about adding fan indicator lights and other things, they always talk about installing a fuse.

So, set the gizmo to ṽ, and use the two plugs on the right side?
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Old 12-25-2017, 03:58 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Merry Christmas everyone! :)

Don't drink too much eggnog!
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Old 12-25-2017, 05:02 PM   #27 (permalink)
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My present came on the Solstice, with the declaration of a Global Corruption National Emergency.
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Old 12-26-2017, 05:25 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas! I finally tried to figure out which end of the multimeter to probe. Mom's battery was at 12.4v with the engine and battery off, 12v with the engine off and lights on, the fuse socket of the working headlight received 12.25v, the socket of the problematic light was only 10v, and the headlight socket received 0v. The guy from Ratchets and Wrenches said a relay should only have 50 ohms. Mom's shows 168 ohms. I do not have any idea if that is significant or how the relay could be responsible for one light working and one being out. I tried figuring out the wiring diagram, but the pages I found about reading circuit diagrams were not helpful to me. The very first thing was apparently the circuit is called HRLY and I did not have any idea what that meant and I felt I needed to understand the terminology, but I could not find that acronym anywhere.
Someone on reddit said it was Headlight ReLaY.
K
Someone else on reddit said AutoZone had an incomplete wiring diagram. This one looked just like AutoZone's at first, but it shows more:


I found a factory guide for troubleshooting the Prius headlights, but not the Camry, and a wiring manual for the 2007 Camry, but not the 2006. One manual said that if you are troubleshooting a wiring harness, unplug both ends, and checking for continuity and... the other thing. The other end goes under the fuse box, so to check the wiring, I would need to remove the battery, battery tray, and fuse box.
I finally take the GRE on Saturday. I am going to attempt to ignore this until then, but I would be indebted to anyone that could help me approach it when I have time again.
Thanks everyone!
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Old 12-26-2017, 12:46 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I read through this thread again and I see you have no resolution yet. So here goes: does everything else work? I will assume all other exterior lighting works since you did not mention any other problem. Does this car have daytime running lights and if so do they work correctly? On my 4 headlight Saturn the daytime running lights are a function of the high beams. So I am only going to concern myself with the regular headlights. Does the dimmer switch seem to work correctly? However it works, push forward and back or ratchet back to change. Probably still has pull back to flash to pass function. If all this works except the driver’s side low beam now we can start. These checks only take a few seconds if you can see the light pattern on a wall. I check all light functions of everything I work on each time I have one in the shop.
Remove both low beams since one side works and one doesn’t. You have a “good” side to compare readings. Check both wires on the good side. Check + and - on the connector. Now check the + on the connector and ground the black test wire to a good chassis ground. Check both sides of the car this should tell you if you have power to both plugs and compare ground connections. Let us know what you find.
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Old 12-26-2017, 01:26 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I've always wondered about why seemingly new cars drive around with one headlight out. I think I'm beginning to understand.

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