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Old 04-01-2021, 01:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I think that I will measure it, add 1/8", make sure that everything is square, nail the corners together, and then saw both pieces at the same time.
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Originally Posted by Piotrsko View Post
Only problem with your nail in place and cut it trick is that you will leave a kerf the width of the saw blade and thus have a gap in your trim in the very corners you are trying to hide the gaps.
An eighth of an inch isn't enough to compensate?

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Old 04-01-2021, 01:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Width of the kerf depends on the set of the teeth. I used to build entire (geodesic dome) houses to 1/32".
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Old 04-01-2021, 02:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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@Xist - Why are you replacing your mom's window trim with dry rot ?
An April fools joke perhaps ?
Why not use wood instead ? Wood will last longer than dry rot.


( *joking ! )

I actually read the title that way though.
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Old 04-01-2021, 03:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes, when I found the thread I realized the phrasing was weird.
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Old 04-02-2021, 10:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cd View Post
@Xist - Why are you replacing your mom's window trim with dry rot ?
An April fools joke perhaps ?
Why not use wood instead ? Wood will last longer than dry rot.


( *joking ! )

I actually read the title that way though.
That's totally how I read the title first as well; I thought "hey, this guy seems funny."
It was only about halfway down the thread when I realized it wasn't what the OP meant [facepalm]
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Old 04-02-2021, 10:23 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Width of the kerf depends on the set of the teeth. I used to build entire (geodesic dome) houses to 1/32".
Well he said he was nailing in place then cutting, he didn't say he was removing and reinstalling. Tooth thickness creates a minimum kerf, set increases it

How do you hold 1/32 over a couple of foot in wood in Oregon during a wet summer? Not critical, just amazed it could be done. I can't measure that accurate on a standard tape measure.
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Old 04-02-2021, 12:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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35ft geodesic dome. The shell was to that tolerance. The interior framing was regular carpentry so there was a questionable layer between the shell and the window trim.

I did the calculations to 1/100th inch, built the jig to 1/64th and produced panels to 1/32nd. We put the first one off the line up in the parking lot. I was very careful with leveling the plate and when the first ring of panels came together the tips of the triangles fell within 1/8 inch over 35ft.

Also it was kiln-dried lumber and we could go from a green field to done in 30 days. Flat concrete slab to erect shell in one working day, closed to weather in 2-3.

A lot of construction here proceeds through the rainy season and new houses get torn down because of black mold.
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Old 04-02-2021, 01:12 PM   #18 (permalink)
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It sounds like they could use one of those fumigation tents to keep the rain off of the materials.
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Old 04-02-2021, 01:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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They could put a geodesic dome over the whole site and build their cramped little box underneath.
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Old 04-02-2021, 01:50 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piotrsko View Post
Well he said he was nailing in place then cutting, he didn't say he was removing and reinstalling. Tooth thickness creates a minimum kerf, set increases it

How do you hold 1/32 over a couple of foot in wood in Oregon during a wet summer? Not critical, just amazed it could be done. I can't measure that accurate on a standard tape measure.
My wife complains that all my projects take too long because I try to hold machining tolerances with wood (which is true). I use a very fine tip sharpie for marking and generally measure once but cut 2 - 3 times. The first cut is intentionally long and then I "sneak up" on the dimensions with a test fit between each cut.

We don't have wet summers in Oregon. The wet season is Oct - April and the dry season is May - September.

You do have to be careful not to build things too tight in the summer and then watch them swell and buckle in the wet season. I had to buy a dehumidifier this winter because my bamboo floor I laid down 6 years ago was starting to buckle when the sun hit it through the sliding door. It is a floating floor with the correct spacing around the perimeter. However, it has shifted over the years and touches the walls in some places. I would never do a floating floor over a wood subfloor again - nothing but problems with this one. I did the same floor on a concrete slab in Alabama with no issues.

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