Replacing Mom's window trim with dry rot

[Xist]

Originally Posted by Xist

I think that I will measure it, add 1/8", make sure that everything is square, nail the corners together, and then saw both pieces at the same time.

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

Only problem with your nail in place and cut it trick is that you will leave a kerf the width of the saw blade and thus have a gap in your trim in the very corners you are trying to hide the gaps.

An eighth of an inch isn't enough to compensate?

[freebeard]

Width of the kerf depends on the set of the teeth. I used to build entire (geodesic dome) houses to 1/32".

[Cd]

@Xist - Why are you replacing your mom's window trim with dry rot ?
An April fools joke perhaps ?
Why not use wood instead ? Wood will last longer than dry rot.


( *joking ! )

I actually read the title that way though.

[Xist]

Yes, when I found the thread I realized the phrasing was weird.

[livewire516]

Originally Posted by Cd

@Xist - Why are you replacing your mom's window trim with dry rot ?
An April fools joke perhaps ?
Why not use wood instead ? Wood will last longer than dry rot.


( *joking ! )

I actually read the title that way though.

That's totally how I read the title first as well; I thought "hey, this guy seems funny."
It was only about halfway down the thread when I realized it wasn't what the OP meant [facepalm]

[Piotrsko]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Width of the kerf depends on the set of the teeth. I used to build entire (geodesic dome) houses to 1/32".

Well he said he was nailing in place then cutting, he didn't say he was removing and reinstalling. Tooth thickness creates a minimum kerf, set increases it

How do you hold 1/32 over a couple of foot in wood in Oregon during a wet summer? Not critical, just amazed it could be done. I can't measure that accurate on a standard tape measure.

[freebeard]

35ft geodesic dome. The shell was to that tolerance. The interior framing was regular carpentry so there was a questionable layer between the shell and the window trim.

I did the calculations to 1/100th inch, built the jig to 1/64th and produced panels to 1/32nd. We put the first one off the line up in the parking lot. I was very careful with leveling the plate and when the first ring of panels came together the tips of the triangles fell within 1/8 inch over 35ft.

Also it was kiln-dried lumber and we could go from a green field to done in 30 days. Flat concrete slab to erect shell in one working day, closed to weather in 2-3.

A lot of construction here proceeds through the rainy season and new houses get torn down because of black mold.

[Xist]

It sounds like they could use one of those fumigation tents to keep the rain off of the materials.

[freebeard]

They could put a geodesic dome over the whole site and build their cramped little box underneath.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

Well he said he was nailing in place then cutting, he didn't say he was removing and reinstalling. Tooth thickness creates a minimum kerf, set increases it

How do you hold 1/32 over a couple of foot in wood in Oregon during a wet summer? Not critical, just amazed it could be done. I can't measure that accurate on a standard tape measure.

My wife complains that all my projects take too long because I try to hold machining tolerances with wood (which is true). I use a very fine tip sharpie for marking and generally measure once but cut 2 - 3 times. The first cut is intentionally long and then I "sneak up" on the dimensions with a test fit between each cut.

We don't have wet summers in Oregon. The wet season is Oct - April and the dry season is May - September.

You do have to be careful not to build things too tight in the summer and then watch them swell and buckle in the wet season. I had to buy a dehumidifier this winter because my bamboo floor I laid down 6 years ago was starting to buckle when the sun hit it through the sliding door. It is a floating floor with the correct spacing around the perimeter. However, it has shifted over the years and touches the walls in some places. I would never do a floating floor over a wood subfloor again - nothing but problems with this one. I did the same floor on a concrete slab in Alabama with no issues.