Running thinner oil raised temps?

[SmellyCat]

On the high temp with different weight oil, If you have too much oil it gets whipped up and air bubbles don't pump. You run hot and the valves get chattery. Does not sound like your issue but I like talk . SC

[XYZ]

Old Mechanic said:

I didn't think it was related to the change in oil viscosity alone. In fact I don't think the oil viscosity has anything to do with it , which is why I asked about the radiator. Radiator degradation is very common and the processis so gradual many people miss the symptoms and loose a good car to a $120 radiator.

Agreed. The oil viscosity is unrelated to the problem.

Originally Posted by Baltothewolf

Also, I live in the high desert. 90+ degree summer days but the nights I know where it ran cooler it was within 5 degrees the same.

Then you don't need a low viscosity oil. 10W-40 should work fine.

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by digital rules

Yes, that is strange. Been using Mobil 1 0w-20 all winter in my 1ZZ-FE with no consumption issues. How many miles on your engine?

It's a 2000 with 142k miles, pre-2003 engines all had oil consumption issues though (which leads to blown precats and blown oil rings, very common cause of death). I've only had 3 different batches of oil in there but the oil consumption rate seems to be highly variable, the current mix is being consumed at about 1 quart per 1500 miles which is "acceptable" according to Toyota. Looking through the service logs that the previous owner gave me, it's probably been worse before; He went through 2 post-cat O2 sensors in 2 years, and I had to change the O2 sensors again shortly after buying the car. Exhaust pipes and sensors were coated in a thick layer of soot. When I bought the car the sump was nearly dry, the engine having burned over 1 quart per 1000 miles for 3000 miles.

Since I drive slowly and don't go much over 3000rpm most of the time it doesn't burn too much oil, but you can see puffs of smoke coming out the exhaust when the engine is revved to 4000 or higher. Coincidentally, the O2 sensor died on the fastest highway trip I ever took (70mph avg at 3700rpm).

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by Old Mechanic

Radiators are like arteries in humans, they clog up over time. An easy check is put your hand on the top and bottom radiator hoses. If the temp of both hoses is similar that indicates your radiator is not removing enough heat. The difference in temperature needs to be about 60 degrees. At the point where overheating occurs the grunge in your radiator has reached a critical point and the radiator should be replaced. You are there due to age, I'm surprized it is not leaking at almost 20 years age, and replacements are not that expensive.

The symptoms ususally occur in springtime when ambient temps are on the rise. The cooling fan issue needs to be resolved, or unplug the compressor and see if the fans come on with the compressor unplugged.

A decent low milegae car like yours can be destroyed by serious overheating and engine damage. I didn't think it was related to the change in oil viscosity alone. In fact I don't think the oil viscosity has anything to do with it , which is why I asked about the radiator. Radiator degradation is very common and the processis so gradual many people miss the symptoms and loose a good car to a $120 radiator.

I think your cooling fan temp sensor is bad as well if I understand your last post. Fix that and the radiator and SAVE that old Camry. Make sure the cooling system is properly bled to get rid of air pockets when you replace the radiator.

regards
Mech

Problem is I work 2 jobs and I work everyday... I don't have the time to go and get it fixed. I just need something I can do to get my fans to come on and stay on. At this point I don't care about MPG, I just need my car to last through the month so I can get a couple days off.

Anyway, to clarify more, when I used to unplug the greed plug (see pic below) the fans would kick on. Period, from the moment I started the car, to the moment I turned it off, now it doesn't do it. However, the fans DO kick on if I turn on the A/C but that obviously counteracts and cooling effect the rad fans would have due to the extra engine load of the A/C...

[nemo]

Balto, Some questions and considerations. How do you know the temperature is reaching 235? From your garage entry you have an added temperature gauge. Have you verified that against another method of measurement? If your gauge is electronic it only reports the information received from the sender. Bad sender? If you temperature is climbing that high at a steady 45 MPH you need to be looking at some other issue other than just fans.

As recommended in other threads you could try pulsing your heater or a continuous partial heat setting to reduce the temperature until you can get it repaired. Grill bock removed?

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by nemo

Balto, Some questions and considerations. How do you know the temperature is reaching 235? From your garage entry you have an added temperature gauge. Have you verified that against another method of measurement? If your gauge is electronic it only reports the information received from the sender. Bad sender? If you temperature is climbing that high at a steady 45 MPH you need to be looking at some other issue other than just fans.

As recommended in other threads you could try pulsing your heater or a continuous partial heat setting to reduce the temperature until you can get it repaired. Grill bock removed?

Yes I have an aftermarket gauge, I don't have any other way of knowing other then that sensor. I'll try it at 45MPH and see if it surpasses 210. Yes my grill block is removed. I hope my gauge isn't broken it costed me a lot to have the damn thing put in.

[Baltothewolf]

Ok well I just got to work. The upper rad hose is noticeably hotter then the lower, and even doing 45 I still see temps at 235. I can't even idle or it will go up to 250...

[user removed]

Make the AC fans run. At 250 that engine won't last long. Turn on the AC and set the temp to max warm. The compressor will not cycle much at all at max hot temp, but if the fans run continuously then it should get cooler. Also check the coolant level next time she is cold both the radiator itself and recovery bottle.

Not sure what to tell you with the temp difference in the radiator hoses and engine temp ashigh as 250.

1.Low coolant
2.Thermostat broken shut
3.Not enough antifreeze, pure water boiling
4.Not sure on a 95 Camry check online to see if the cooling system needs to be bled. Air pocket could be you primary problem.
5.It could be ahead gasket is giving out, have you lost coolant when it gets that hot?
Ride with the windows down and heat on max fresh air.

Bottom line is find away to make it run cooler or you will soon be faced with major engine work.

Of course all of this assumes your temp readings are correct. When I was working on cars daily I could hold my hand on a 180 degree top hose for about 5 seconds before I had to take it off or risk burning, at 250 my hand would be off in less than a second.

regards
Mech

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by Old Mechanic

Make the AC fans run. At 250 that engine won't last long. Turn on the AC and set the temp to max warm. The compressor will not cycle much at all at max hot temp, but if the fans run continuously then it should get cooler. Also check the coolant level next time she is cold both the radiator itself and recovery bottle.

Not sure what to tell you with the temp difference in the radiator hoses and engine temp ashigh as 250.

1.Low coolant
2.Thermostat broken shut
3.Not enough antifreeze, pure water boiling
4.Not sure on a 95 Camry check online to see if the cooling system needs to be bled. Air pocket could be you primary problem.
5.It could be ahead gasket is giving out, have you lost coolant when it gets that hot?
Ride with the windows down and heat on max fresh air.

Bottom line is find away to make it run cooler or you will soon be faced with major engine work.

Of course all of this assumes your temp readings are correct. When I was working on cars daily I could hold my hand on a 180 degree top hose for about 5 seconds before I had to take it off or risk burning, at 250 my hand would be off in less than a second.

regards
Mech

Thank you for all your help mechanic, I do appreciate it. When she is cold I don't think there is any coolant in the little reservoir tank, I added distilled water a while back but it's gone now. As for the A/C, I have to drive to Long Beach (80 mile drive) so I'll let you know if it works. Will right back when I get there.

[SmellyCat]

Sometimes folks pour radiator stop leak and the radiator veins get all clogged up. . Then new radiator time.


Also try running around with the rad cap half loose. It will steam a little but will burp the system good