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Old 05-18-2014, 05:14 PM   #291 (permalink)
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O'Mech...it is coming along so nicely Sir, What an awesome job. Excellent choice in the CBR250R motor setup too. Along with everyone else, I am waiting with baited-breath to see the first "Drive" with it! Many Blessings to you and yours. :{)

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Old 05-19-2014, 01:32 AM   #292 (permalink)
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I plan to put a single wide angle rear view mirror in the center top between the connecting tubes of the two semicircular roll tubes.
That could work. Inside or outside the body? If it is back closer to your eyes it could be canted over at 45.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:36 AM   #293 (permalink)
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Va. law says one outside mirror. This is the one I am thinking about. The 14 inches wide version should fit perfectly between the longitudal connectors to the dual roll bars. Just above the bars which passes the "outside" test.

Panoramic Rear View Mirror Clip on 180 Degrees Wide View | eBay

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Old 05-19-2014, 08:47 AM   #294 (permalink)
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On the subject of crosswind instability, my idea is to have a group of "gills" in the remaining part of the rear end, the opposite of louvers you see on hoods of the hot rods that protrude above the level of the sheet metal, I think they should protrude below the surface of the sheet metal. Air intake for the radiator probably from the bottom right in front of the engine, with a baffle to deflect water and debris down and away from the radiator opening. I'm still open to thoughts and suggestions about this. The bike had a temperature gauge so I should be able to monitor cooling system temperatures and control the cooling air inlet size to minimize air flow disruption while not risking overheating. Radiator heat will also be utilized for cabin heat in cold temperatures, while Catalytic converter heat will provide preheating of the engines intake air.

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Old 05-19-2014, 10:57 AM   #295 (permalink)
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Lexan's coefficient of thermal expansion is quite high. Whatever system you devise, remember that the windshield will grow more than it's frame. Generally screws are bad, at least without large holes to let the windshield move around.
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Old 05-19-2014, 04:22 PM   #296 (permalink)
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crosswind

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Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
On the subject of crosswind instability, my idea is to have a group of "gills" in the remaining part of the rear end, the opposite of louvers you see on hoods of the hot rods that protrude above the level of the sheet metal, I think they should protrude below the surface of the sheet metal. Air intake for the radiator probably from the bottom right in front of the engine, with a baffle to deflect water and debris down and away from the radiator opening. I'm still open to thoughts and suggestions about this. The bike had a temperature gauge so I should be able to monitor cooling system temperatures and control the cooling air inlet size to minimize air flow disruption while not risking overheating. Radiator heat will also be utilized for cabin heat in cold temperatures, while Catalytic converter heat will provide preheating of the engines intake air.

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Mech
In 'The Leading Edge,' Goro Tamai commented on tests MIT did in their solar racing car program.
*He said that a streamline body in free flight is incapable of producing lift.
*As a half-body,simple attention to body inclination is all that's necessary to produce a zero-lift body within ground proximity.
*Fins/rear wheel fairings can be utilized to move the center of pressure aft of the center of gravity to balance or bias yaw moments.(The GM/AeroVironment Sunraycer used a series of fins for this)
*In crosswind and especially gusts,a simple spine down the roof/aft-body centerline,is effective in killing any crosswind lift.
I feel like the tadpole will be very stable.We've had pretty horrific winds around here and the T-100 is very manageable.Nothing squirrely,no surprises.
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Old 05-19-2014, 04:44 PM   #297 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ennored View Post
Lexan's coefficient of thermal expansion is quite high. Whatever system you devise, remember that the windshield will grow more than it's frame. Generally screws are bad, at least without large holes to let the windshield move around.
That sounds complicated, considering that you want it tight at all temperatures.
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:09 PM   #298 (permalink)
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OMG. I MUST see this in person. Must. Must. Now.
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:20 PM   #299 (permalink)
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OMG. I MUST see this in person. Must. Must. Now.
Wednesday afternoon would be fine, wifey has a stress test at the hospital Wednesday morning early. Nothing serious, just a follow up from a stint 2.5 years ago. PM me if you wish.

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Old 05-19-2014, 05:31 PM   #300 (permalink)
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It's (the windshield) polycarbonate and it is used in racing cars. It's also surrounded by aluminum which expands much more rapidly than steel . I'll probably (at this point) use clips to hold it in place and adhesive sealant to weatherproof. The surrounding aluminum is not super strong and I can easily flex it with my hands. I don't see the windshield as an issue, but if it becomes one then I'll change strategies.

Thanks for a advice on the "gills" aerohead. I need to provide an exit for cooling air for the radiator. Not a lot but some. My alternative concept was to have the exit combined with the rear lights, turn signals and license plate mount. After reading your post I think I'll stick with that. I just realized today I have another full sheet of the stainless (3 feet by 8 feet) and another half sheet to work with. Should be enough for the front wheel skirts and the engine canopy covering as well as the rest of the rear body.

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