Squeezing a few more mpg out of a mustang gt

[mcrews]

good post my mr A! I forgot all about this. I coast in neutral/engine ON all the time.....not on flat land but going downhill.
It did not work on a ford tarus I drove the rpms didn't drop when coasting in neutral.

[Miller88]

The rolling hills at 55 MPH are probably a better bet.

Obviously different vehicles, but my Focus ALWAYS does better on rolling hills than on the flat. DFCO down, build up a bit of speed on the way down, then lose some on the way back up.

Also not going above 55 will help.

[Arragonis]

Another suggestion - review the "going at 75" decision.

If you need to use the flat and faster road at say 60-65 instead of the 55 side road then find a truck (as in SEMI) and follow it, then use P&G technique is illustrated here by Vekke very effectively over 2 videos.

Please feel free to film your trips and post a vid, that can sometimes generate more tips from others.

[gk_ghig14]

I can pulse and glide however it can be very "notchy" depending on the terrain and rpm. Seems to take a couple seconds for it to lock into drive.

Took coasting to an extreme just now, one road(rolling "hills") I coasted in neutral for a little over a mile and my lowest speed was 35ish(started between 55 and 60) then another road I coasted from about 60 till I was about 10 mph(this road seems to be mostly uphill after a small downhill). So depending on traffic levels during my commute(and time) I could possibly coast for a total of a couple miles

[Arragonis]

Happy new year!

The notchiness is normal, mine does that too.

On rolling hills you can also ride the terrain a little in gear - allow speed to build up on the downhills and carry that momentum on the next climb all in gear. Coasting is best when coming to a junction or riding a long descent.

That tapped of course you probably have more long straights that we do in North Britiain.

[wheelbender6]

I love these threads on getting more mpg from muscle cars and big pickups. It's quite a challenge.
-One member recommended changing gear ratios in the rear axle. You can also accomplish that by mounting taller tires on the rear. It will introduce speedometer error. It worked well on one of my pickups.
-Changing driving habits is the cheapest mod. if you have a long daily commute, reducing speed could be a real bummer.

[mcrews]

[quote[/U]wheelbender6;405152]i love these threads on getting more mpg from muscle cars and big pickups. It's quite a challenge.
-one member recommended changing gear ratios in the rear axle. You can also accomplish that by mounting taller tires on the rear.

Read post #17 then his response in #18

it will introduce speedometer error. It worked well on one of my pickups.
-changing driving habits is the cheapest mod. If you have a long daily commute, reducing speed could be a real bummer.[/quote]

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[gk_ghig14]

As far as gear ratio, I have 3.15 and the next tallest is 2.73 from a v6 mustang but gear changes are $500+ easy cause of labor

Tires, after hanging out with a buddy last night, found out technically I can go taller(as in I have wheel well space) but it may be tricky to find the tires. But I may look into it

Also dropped about 10 pounds off the front of the car(strut tower brace removed, sound tube removed, engine cover removed). Then I'll be dropping about 35 pounds off the rear when I take off the mufflers and install deletes

[gk_ghig14]

Just checked tire pressure all were at 40 but my driver front which was at 55(tires rated for 51) so I let air out until it got to about 40

[gk_ghig14]

Well found my next set of tires thanks to you guys. I will be going with 235/55/18 nitto 420s or 421q. While not a lrr tire or a true car tire, they weigh about the same as my current tires(31ish pounds), are narrower by 10-40 mm, bigger sidewall for more personal comfort, a few tenths of an inch taller for lower rpm, and I know how they handle(had them on my trucks) which means greater safety for me. Also since they are for 18" wheels I can easily cut down 5 pounds each wheel of rotational mass