Supercheap Mtb/hybrid bike build- Beginner at work!

[320touring]

Since the start of March, I've been working at getting fitter using my old mountain bike. When initially purchased 8 years ago it cost £100($150).

I used it for a while when first bought-then it was vandalised at the block of flats i stayed in, and was not used for a period of years.



Its done about 40 miles since being pressed back into service-as such, its obvious that there are some fairly major failings with the bike that need addressed-

Original off road tyres are cracked and worn, plus hard work to use on the tarmaced paths
brakes need adjusted/overhauled
rear cassette is worn or needing adjustment
possible bottom bracket worn
gearshift needs adjustment

So far i have sourced the following:
2x 26" ×1.95road tyres plus tubes for £16($24)
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...491014&alt=web

New brake blocks for £4($6) (for 4)
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...588243&alt=web

Rear cassette for £9($13.50) plus post
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...197125&alt=web

£31($46.5)plus some time spent getting the gears and brakes adjusted shoud see it much better.

I tightened up the bottom bracket again-will see how it holds up again. Worst case, a further £30 ($45)gets one supplied and fitted.

I'll update the thread as work is carried out

[320touring]

In a frenzy of shopping i've also bought a wireless computer/speedo for the bike. Cost less than£5 ($7.50) posted.

Suppose it is best if i measure what i'm doing

[Sven7]

Sounds like some standard maintenance. Is the bottom bracket cartridge or cup-and-cone? How good are you with a wrench?

Be careful with tires. What usually makes them roll slowly is a thick casing, not an off-road tread design. Go to a bike shop, and get a nice pliable tire. It will conform to the road better instead of resisting, resulting in reduced rolling resistance.

My mountain bike is on these right now. They are very nice, pliable tires that roll well on and off road.

And, definitely tune that derailleur before you go buying parts for it.

Good to see a bike back on the road! I hope it all goes well for you.

[320touring]

Originally Posted by Sven7

Sounds like some standard maintenance. Is the bottom bracket cartridge or cup-and-cone? How good are you with a wrench?

Be careful with tires. What usually makes them roll slowly is a thick casing, not an off-road tread design. Go to a bike shop, and get a nice pliable tire. It will conform to the road better instead of resisting, resulting in reduced rolling resistance.

My mountain bike is on these right now. They are very nice, pliable tires that roll well on and off road.

And, definitely tune that derailleur before you go buying parts for it.

Good to see a bike back on the road! I hope it all goes well for you.

I'm happy enough to buy the tool and bottom bracket, will see how the current one lasts after another week or so.

The tyres fulfil 2 criteria at the moment- a cheap way to reace the worn out ones, and a way to get new tubes and more road biased tyres. Fair comment re sidewall stiffness, although i've dropped from 2.05 to 1.95 width so footprint should be smaller. I'll try them out and see how i go

I'm not going to purchase a rear cassette until i have the gears set up properpy to assess how bad it is.

Cheers for the info qnd encouragement-much appreciated!

[320touring]

Worryingly, having been out on the bike in the shed this evening (on the resistance stand) i'm now wondering if I could design a stand that provides resistance by charging a battery..

Heh, something else to consider!

[Frank Lee]

When I went from knobbies to slicks very similar to yours I was then able to pull top gear far, far more often. Same nominal size, same psi, and certainly not thinner.

[rumdog]

Yes slicks are they way to go, i like 2 inch for riding round town, to give some cush... and for riding down kerbs etc. Depending on your riding style, ie comfort or crouching for speed, i recommend a shorter stem and bmx bars. Not so aero, but way better on the back. Good luck 320

[320touring]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

When I went from knobbies to slicks very similar to yours I was then able to pull top gear far, far more often. Same nominal size, same psi, and certainly not thinner.

Thats the kind of thing I'm wanting to hear-sounds like the thinner tyre, less aggressive tread will work to my advantage.

Originally Posted by rumdog

Yes slicks are they way to go, i like 2 inch for riding round town, to give some cush... and for riding down kerbs etc. Depending on your riding style, ie comfort or crouching for speed, i recommend a shorter stem and bmx bars. Not so aero, but way better on the back. Good luck 320

Interesting point re the seating position- issue is that the bike has gripshift gears so I'd need new shifter mechs for the handle bars if changing them. May be worth considering in the longer term.

Thanks for the info re tyres and thoughts on handlebars!

[Sven7]

Originally Posted by 320touring

Worryingly, having been out on the bike in the shed this evening (on the resistance stand) i'm now wondering if I could design a stand that provides resistance by charging a battery..

Heh, something else to consider!

K-TOR Pedal Powered Generator

That says it puts out 20 watts, which is really not much.

On the higher handlebars, if you're lucky you could go to the LBS and grab a longer shifter cable and housing. If you're adjusting the derailleur anyway, why not.

[320touring]

Originally Posted by Sven7

K-TOR Pedal Powered Generator

That says it puts out 20 watts, which is really not much.

On the higher handlebars, if you're lucky you could go to the LBS and grab a longer shifter cable and housing. If you're adjusting the derailleur anyway, why not.

I'd build my own I think- have started a thread fpr discussion here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ank-31599.html

I'll concentrate on getting it mechanically sound before turning to comfort or aesthetics-but they will be given due consideration..