Terrible mpg's = new interest in old ideas.

[mhmitszach]

Originally Posted by Tygen1

Got any codes???

I hope you put in Motorcraft Plugs, Autolite is acceptable, but the Zetec realllllly likes the Motorcraft plugs. Bosch will just cause it to misfire/shake.

If both of the above are good, then don't worry about adding chemicals to make your car run right, just get the basics right, and start working on specifics from there. Pull your MAF and clean it with non residue contact cleaner (read up on it, don't just clean it without understanding how to), pull the TB and scrub it with a tooth brush and brake clean, pull the PVC valve and check it for proper opperation and clean it if it is good, thank Ford the ZX2 does not have an egr system, check your wires/coil pack for arcing, corrosion, damage, etc..., air filter, vacuum leaks.... I could go on and on. Use your scan gauge to monitor your sensors to see if any of them are acting funny, like a slow O2 sensor, coolant temp or air temp sensor that is off, etc.... You'll find it, you just have to be persistant and understand that the difficult job of finding these problems is what will make you a better ZX2 mechanic, then your mechanic will ever be.

BTW, Scangauge II is on it's way to my house JCWhitney, $127 with 20% off coupon and free shipping

Yes, motorcraft plugs.

I added the little bit of seafoam I had to the crankcase any how. (Recommended by ford mechanic for the burnt cam lobes)

I'll have to check all of those things. I can probably have the ford mechanic do all of it for like 50 dollars though.

I'm excited for you to get the scan guage. I really want to know what your TPS is with cruise control at 55. On a good day mine runs around 21, with a low of 19 and a high of 23.

I also want to know what your water temp runs around.

[Tygen1]

Ok, got the SG last night. Here's some observations from this mornings drive to work. (be aware this is not calibrated, just inputed engine size and fuel tank size and drove)
TPS at 55 mph is between 19-21, water temp was between 209-218, IAT between 103-113, GPH at idle between 13-19 but usually 15-16, MPG during the pulse is around 25 and coasting between 200-500mpg. It was pretty cool out this morning, so we will see what tonight is....

[mhmitszach]

Originally Posted by Tygen1

Ok, got the SG last night. Here's some observations from this mornings drive to work. (be aware this is not calibrated, just inputed engine size and fuel tank size and drove)
TPS at 55 mph is between 19-21, water temp was between 209-218, IAT between 103-113, GPH at idle between 13-19 but usually 15-16, MPG during the pulse is around 25 and coasting between 200-500mpg. It was pretty cool out this morning, so we will see what tonight is....

The TPS is still usually pretty close even if its not calibrated. If you never saw 22 or 23 at 55 mph, your car is definitely running better.

My water temp, since removing ac and the partial under tray blowing away, has only ever peaked at 190. I just haven't had the time or resources to make a new under tray.

Hmm. I hardly try the pulse and glide technique.


My parents keep needing my car to run to down for random things, and they just can't seem to even pull 30 mpg. 0_0

[Tygen1]

Ok, more observations. My full grill block and HD lip definatly stop the radiator from cooling as it should. My water temp climbs to 225, then drops to 200 when the fan kicks in every five minutes or so. I'm going to program in the high/low speed fan Xgauge to see exactly what's happening. Whats interesting is that I've watched my IAt during this, it climbs about 20 degrees when the fan kicks on, IAt is usually around 100, but has gone as high as 150 (no need for a WAI). My trans temp hangs around 200, peaking at 211. There really aren't any flat roads around here, but on the very short sections that seem flat, my TPS is at 19-20 at 55. However I often see 23 when climbing slight grades at 55. My mpg while pulseing drops down to around 12 and my TPS is around 35. My TPS at idle is 17 and GPH while coasting sits around 0.19.
I don't mind my car running hot, as long as the fan keeps it under control. Although now that I have a SG, I'd like to test normal operating temps vs. high temps to see what (if any) benefit there is. Same with WAI. I did cut my intake box back to allow warm engine bay air in vs. thru the fender.
After one week with the SG, I think I see the reason our mpg's are so different. Pulse and Coast. I've noticed that if I drive with out coasting, my mpg is pretty much the same as yours. I can't say coasting is the best option if you trans is already in questionable condition.
I try and update tonight with some mpg numbers to see how the SG changed my results this week.

[Christ]

I wouldn't really be comfortable with a constant engine temp much over 225*F.

If the fan is kicking on, it's draining MPG - keep it from kicking on, and you might even get another mippig out of your engine. (Electrical load on the alternator. Even if you're running w/o alt, it's taking juice away from your other engine components from the battery, which only has so much current to supply, and usually not enough.)

For both of you, I suggest deep cycle batteries, volt meters, and alt kill switches. Don't replace your original battery right away, but if you need a battery for ANYTHING, it's a good excuse to get a deep cycle for your car, and put your current battery in whatever needs one.

I also have to suggest LED lighting options, and "lightening the load", electrically speaking. If either of you have DRL, ground your parking brake wire to stop it from coming on during the day, or if you're good at wiring, rewire the circuit into LED's instead of the high-beam lights.

I believe your headlights are 55W low and 75W high... consider some driving lights that are around 30W for when you don't need much light, like just after dusk.

I'm not sure what to do for any serious gains in weight reduction for your cars, so no advice there. I do know that the 1.9 1st/2nd gen engine fits your Zetec transmission, as well as other (longer geared) transmissions fitting on your Zetec blocks, which might help.

Since the 1.9 block will fit, that means the 1.6 block will also fit. You can go smaller, as long as it's something you're comfortable with. You'll need to modify several things to get either engine to pass emissions inspections, though, since you're both OBD-II compliant. You'll need to make sure that all of your current emissions equipment is installed on the new engine, and that your ECU is reprogrammed (with a CARB compliant tune) to run the smaller displacement.

[Tygen1]

Ok, This tank was my best commute yet. 43.28mpg and this is with much worse traffic than last week. The uncalibrated SG reported 42.4, so it's not to far off. What disapointing was that when I left work it was at 49mpg, the crazy shore traffic on friday left me with a 38mpg avg. on the way home.
On the issue of the fan coming on so much, I figured it will hurt the mpg, but the SG doesn't show any real change???? I'm still trying to get things figured out though...
Good suggestions, Alt. kill is on the menu for next year. My battery will proably not make it thru the winter, so a deep cycle will replace it. As far as motor replacement goes....I've done the math and 1.6L would be just about right and ought to yeild a 20%mpg improvement....theoretically....but I'm just not into that. I like to go down the 1/4 mile on occasion and going with a smaller motor just isn't nessesary. Besides, I'm angling for a MTX swap and going lean burn next year also. Have you read about COZX2 over on gassavers, 109mpg ZX2. I'm roughly following the path he blazed. On flat ground at 60mph he was running about 80mpg, if memory serves me correct. I'm saving next year for the big mods. Just gonna try and finish this year up with some light wieght wheels, front undertray and rear diffuser and some other small mods. Just trying to push it up to 45mpg on the commute, then next year go for 50+.... I've already hit 54mpg on the highway, so I know there is some room to grow. Wanna talk radical changes...if I were going for smaller displacement, I'd just remove cylinders 1&4 then have a 1L for a 27% increase in mpg and only 75hp

[Christ]

Nice work on the research. I've briefly heard tell of the COZX2, but haven't read up on it yet. Escorts (for mileage) aren't really my thing. I'd rather do a 3.0/3.2 Vulcan swap into one.

I'm still waiting to see a '97ish Escort Wagon cheap (like around $200) with minimal visual rust (don't care about strut towers and such) so I can do that swap. I have a 3.0 in the garage from a Ranger that will work nicely.

Oh - the 1.6 also came in a MHO Turbo version (Methanol High Output). Might be worth looking into if you ever go for a project car. I'd be amazed to find one though.

[mhmitszach]

If I find tools over and my girlfriends house, I might go to the junkyard tomorrow to get air dam.

My idle tps is 16.

You still have a lower tps than I do. On a flat road at 55, it is at least 21. Sometimes, when it's running good, it will stay around 19-20 though.

I really need to remake under tray. I just haven't had time.

My water temp used to run the exact same way pre a/c removal.

I'm going to try coasting more. That is definitely the hardest technique to make stick. It makes driving places a lot longer.

My belt squeel is slowly getting worse. Any ideas to make it tighter? I mean, my belt tensioner is pretty much shot.

Also, adding seafoam to crankcase seems to have helped with the rough idle. It doesn't shake nearly as bad.

[Tygen1]

ChrisT, you always amaze me with your depth of knowledge I believe Escorts are the real unsung heros of our car culture. The Hondas and the Toyotas get all the press, but we get just as good of mpg, with lower costs to buy a good used one and cheaper parts. When I go to the junk yard the Hondas and Toyotas are picked clean, the Escorts are ripe with sweet parts. Why buy a Civic for 3K when you can get an escort for the same options in an Escort for 1.5K and have lower miles and get cheaper parts. Just my two cents....My grandfather bought a model T when they first came out and my family has bought Ford ever since...it's in my blood....

Zach, I don't focus too much on TPS when I drive, because I am constanly Pulsing and Coasting. My TPS when pulsing is up to 36. I'd say our 55mph tps is within a reasonable percentage of each other, I wouldn't say mine is so much better than yours. One year ago you were turning in 42mpg tanks without the Pulse and Coast, so your car is cabable, you just don't have the oppertunities to repeat those successes. Just advance what you can right now, don't focus on the big numbers (as if it were winter) and make some progress with what you can.
You got me interested in the SeaFoam, I'm gonna try it also. Replace that tensioner, if you know it to be the probelm, before it causes some real issues. While it's off, spin the other idlers to see if any of them have rough bearings that may be on the way out.

[mhmitszach]

I still think my highway tps is just that bit higher. It was 22/23. I barely pulled 38mpg on a highway trip of 35 miles. I used to easily pull 40+.


Since I'm going away 4 hours south for college in about a month and a few weeks and taking my car with I'm getting some minor things done.

I'm hoping I can get all this done over the weekend.

Front rotors are apparently shot (according to dad). But then again, I feel it too when I brake above 30 mph.

Tensioner. We broke that. I'm hoping if I have the mechanic replace it, he can figure how to get the belt to fit a little tighter. 61.5 inch belt + bigger idler pulley on the tensioner. Still squeals on start up.

Fuel Filter. Cheap part, it's probably original. Maintenance item.

PCV Valve. Cheap part, etc. Could help with idle.

Then possibly clean throttle body, air flow sensor.

Also, if it's the problem. Replace parking brake cable. The parking/ebrake doesn't work and never has.