Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% MPG gain @ 70 km/h

[brucepick]

Originally Posted by dipstick

How are you going to replace the benefits of the water pump?

Can be replaced by electric, though was not yet brought up in this thread.

Many Hondas have their water pump gear-driven off an engine shaft so for those cars it would be more involved than just removing a belt.

[AndrzejM]

I'm thinking... If water pump will be electric, and the water flow should be the same there's no point in this because power that mechanic pump will use will be less than electric. Due to alternator efficiency and the pump itself. Unless you're running deep cycle battery. Electric pump I presume should have some serious wattage so it's useless for any longer trip, because it will drain deep cycle battery to quickly.

It's not the best idea in my opinion to get rid off mechanic pump.

[Piwoslaw]

Originally Posted by AndrzejM

I'm thinking... If water pump will be electric, and the water flow should be the same there's no point in this because power that mechanic pump will use will be less than electric.

But the pump's flow doesn't have to be the same, in fact most of the time it can be less, for example during warmup. Also, at higher engine rpms the water flow isn't greater, since the pump just starts cavitating, losing energy with no gains.

The speed of an electric pump can be regulated as needed - it depends on engine load & temperature, not rpms.

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by AndrzejM

I'm thinking... If water pump will be electric, and the water flow should be the same there's no point in this because power that mechanic pump will use will be less than electric. Due to alternator efficiency and the pump itself. Unless you're running deep cycle battery. Electric pump I presume should have some serious wattage so it's useless for any longer trip, because it will drain deep cycle battery to quickly.

It's not the best idea in my opinion to get rid off mechanic pump.

I have a 55gpm pump on the diesel and it only draws 70 or 80 watts.

[AndrzejM]

Originally Posted by Piwoslaw

But the pump's flow doesn't have to be the same, in fact most of the time it can be less, for example during warmup. Also, at higher engine rpms the water flow isn't greater, since the pump just starts cavitating, losing energy with no gains.

The speed of an electric pump can be regulated as needed - it depends on engine load & temperature, not rpms.

I wasn't talking that flow have to be constant, I was saying that it should be similar to original flow.
I agree that electric pump has advantages over mechanical one, but I'm sure that factory, regardles of the car make spent enough money to do it right.
I can't agree that limited flow during warmup is a good idea though. It's best in my opinion to warm up engine as even as it's possible and limited flow works against it. I think that higher flow would be better to warm up engine more evenly.

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

I have a 55gpm pump on the diesel and it only draws 70 or 80 watts.

That's less than I thought, thanks for sharing.

[Nerys]

the pump I plan to use will draw 6amps stock. I plan to cut that in half since its designed to cool a racing V8 sized engine.

but its rated for a continuous duty cycle which is what I need. I plan to cut power to it to "slow it down" quite a bit. once the pump is at the minimum needed speed the pump stops actually "doing" anything more. your thermostat takes over at that point opening and closing as needed.

what I would LOVE is to have a "clutch" on the main drive pulley so I can just push a button to "stop" the alternator and water pump all together without having to remove them. THAT would be ideal. then just push a button to re engage them. I could even make it automatic. every time I start the engine engage the clutch for say 60 second then turn it off. this way keeps things lubed and rust free etc..

[AndrzejM]

Originally Posted by Nerys

what I would LOVE is to have a "clutch" on the main drive pulley so I can just push a button to "stop" the alternator and water pump all together without having to remove them. THAT would be ideal. then just push a button to re engage them. I could even make it automatic. every time I start the engine engage the clutch for say 60 second then turn it off. this way keeps things lubed and rust free etc..

That can be done.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ing-14952.html

[Uncle Dave]

Some times different approaches each have advantage. When it is Cold, you may want the engine to warm up Fast. If you park in the yard, a block heater might be good. But if you want to go Fast - Now! I used to have a VW Rabbit Diesel. As soon as the engine caught, I was riding the clutch. I was going to get Cold and Wet when I got to the Fire.

I have personally seen an answer to the water pump question. Teakettle. Put the radiator up Higher than the engine. Let the engine boil into the Radiator, and the condensate drop back into the engine. Saw this in 1930's Chevy? Guys were looking at it, and could not fine any water pump.

Keep It Simple Stupid. KISS

[oil pan 4]

Power steering delete - EcoModder

Its a P/S delete wiki with some info I added on P/S clutching.

[Cobb]

I disconnected the ps on the insight which is electric and gained 3 mpg. It wasnt too much difficult to steer than before.

As for water, you dont want to do that as it will generate hot spots and maybe even stress. Frankly, not sure you can guess when it should be off or on.

An insight owner did away with his mechanic pump for water and used a solar hot water one on electric. It ran at a lower volume and I understand it worked well with the cooling system and antifreeze in it.