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Old 03-16-2011, 05:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Cool Top Ten Moving Truck Tips!

- Moving -

I know this isn't really something that many people like to do too often (some never do), I have the (mis)fortune of performing this graceful ballet about once every year or so. I'm refering to packing all of my stuff into a moving van and driving to my new place of employment ala the military. I've been doing my research online and physically going to the different rental locations (Uhaul, Penske, Budget, etc) to inspect their current fleet and gather numbers and info. I'm going to attempt to write this list as objectively as possible and not try to cater to any specific company. I will note that I have moved many times in the past, and can confirm all of the numbers quoted herein.

First a little about my own situation (I will use it later as a point of reference): 4 bedroom house, Jeep (24 freeway mpg) and minivan (26 freeway mpg)

1. Take your time and do not rush! Even though that flying box is capable of 70mph or better, 60 or even 55mph will net you 10-40% better fuel economy.

2. Plan you load accordingly, get rid of the excess before you move and get only the lowest capacity truck large enough to carry your belongings properly.

3. Most moving trucks are optimally geared with 55mph as optimal crusing speed because above that the air resistance becomes much greater as proven in other posts. Again - flying box, not the Aerocivic (thank you in advance Basjoos)

4. With rising fuel prices, 2 mpg difference from 7 to 9 for a 2000 mile trip would cost you an additional $256. You would only be saving about an hour a day over four days (assuming you drive around 500 miles per day). Is that one hour of your time worth $64?

5. Always go for the same size truck in a diesel if you have the choice! The cost of the fuel tends to be about %15-20 more but the MPG return is 60-80% better.
(gasoline 26ft boxtruck = 5-7MPG) (diesel 26ft boxtruck = 8-12MPG)

6. Rent from newer fleets. Most of the newer moving vans are benefiting from aerodynamic upgrades from the trucking industry and chances are that the vehicle is in better running order.

7. Plan your overnight stays to leave only about 1/4 capacity in your fuel tank. Moving trucks are an easy target for gas thieves and traveling 0 miles on 50 gallons of fuel is really depressing (and your out $200)

8. If you are traveling with multiple vehicles (for example, I will have my Jeep on the trailer behind the moving truck and my wife will drive the minivan), the alternate driven vehicle should only contain the bare essentials for the occupants. The moving van or towed vehicle is far more efficiant at carrying all of your overnight bags, extra clothes, vehicle repair parts and your trip supply of water.

9. Check your tire pressure at least every morning, if you are going any great distance you will probably travel through different tempreture regions and the pressure may change from one location to the next. It's also a good idea to check at each rest stop, plus it gets you out of the car and loosens you up.

10. Consider transporting a small shipment of boxes from an individual or taking a second rider by checking sites like uship.com or the local craigslist. This can help offset your fuel costs and having company instead of driving alone and can make the drive smoother.

Good ecomodder driving habits like avoiding usage of the brakes, using your energy coming down one hill to propel you up the next (local speed limit, road safety and law enforcement provided) and keeping the nut adjusted will always pay you dividends but it really shows through when you are flying a box down the assphalt barely breaking out of the single digits on the MPG scale.

Please feel free to comment or add other things to my list. It's not all inclusive and is meant to be grown on. I didn't actually intend for there to be ten items, but it worked out that way and gave me a cool title!

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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to JeepNmpg2 For This Useful Post:
cfguy2000 (03-18-2011), redpoint5 (02-11-2013), skyl4rk (04-27-2011)
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That's one hell of a list and a lot of good advice Just hope I remember where to find it when I move in 5-7 years.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I just moved 500 miles about 6 months ago using a new 24ft Budget truck with a diesel engine. Running approximately 65 mph fully loaded I netted about 10 mpg. I hope I never have to do this again!!!
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I will be moving 2,300 miles next month which is why all of this is on my mind. I'll keep you guys posted with my status and such in a different thread (I'll link it in here once I've started it).
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I will be moving from Dallas, TX to Asheville, NC (1000 miles) with my Fiancee at the beginning of June. We do not have very much to move as we currently live in a 1 br apartment. We have 2 cars, so 1 will need to be towed by the moving truck.

Which brings me to my main question: Should I go with the Diesel moving truck?

The Diesel trucks are much bigger which means it will mostly be empty, but I am also considering the effects of towing a vehicle behind the truck. Vehicle 1 is a 1997 Toyota Corolla (2400 lbs). Vehicle 2 is a 2003 Honda Accord (3000 lbs).

The rental cost of the diesel is very close to the cost of the smaller gas trucks. Will a large empty diesel truck get better or worse mileage than a small gas truck? (When towing a car)
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Old 03-18-2011, 01:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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To pull or not to pull (a trailer), is that the question?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cfguy2000 View Post
The rental cost of the diesel is very close to the cost of the smaller gas trucks. Will a large empty diesel truck get better or worse mileage than a small gas truck? (When towing a car)
Thanks for the reply and the great question! I hate to say it but yes, the large empty diesel truck will brow beat the smaller gasoline truck for FE while towing a trailer all day long. I've had a smaller diesel truck that I averaged 12-13 mpg for the entire trip from LA to Seattle area, with 5,500lbs of household goods and a 3,600lb car on a trailer behind it. Don't get me wrong, this vehicle was pretty overloaded, but even with that amount of weight, the diesel engine is extremely efficient when "pushed".

Just to put the data out there for everyone:

The smallest Diesel truck is usually in the 17-22 ft box range, which is equiped to move 3-5 bedrooms but that might only be in my area. However I believe there are 12 ft and perhaps smaller gasoline trucks that are fully capable of towing a second vehicle, but they are only rated for 6-10 mpg. The key to the situation is whether or not the vehicle is towing because of the additional drag induced by two more axles worth of machinery and the sheer weight of an automobile. Ever noticed how the 1/2 ton pickups nowadays are rated for 10,000lb towing, but they can only hold 1,000ish lbs in the box? It's less of an extreme difference with moving trucks, but it still is applicable. The MPG's said gasoline trucks get while under larger loads is simply abyssmal though (single digits, sometimes not much more than 5-7).

Quote:
Originally Posted by cfguy2000 View Post
Which brings me to my main question: Should I go with the Diesel moving truck?
From what you've stated, I'd say you're nearly at a draw based on the following math. The diesel vehicle slightly edges out the gasoline model, but I'll get into this more later. This is assuming that all other cost factors are equal and we're only going off of the price of fuel for the whole trip:

12 ft gasoline box truck: (1000 miles / 6-10 MPG) X $3.65/gal = $365.00 - 608.33
22 ft diesel box truck: (1000 miles / 8-12 MPG) X $4.11/gal = $342.50 - 513.75

I would look into the option of pulling a trailer behind your accord. Even the 4 cylinder model should be capable of pulling 2,000 lbs (based off of the 3,200lb curb weight) safely. A 4x8 or 5x8 enclosed trailer weigh around 800lbs alone. If you have less than 1,200 lbs of items try this option as it will be cheaper than the truck option almost always.

Below are some links to a company that I've used for years for towing parts, they have really competative prices too:

Tow hitch: Honda Accord Trailer Hitch - 2003 | etrailer.com
Wiring: Honda Accord Trailer Wiring Harness - 2003 | etrailer.com
Ball mount: 5 Inch Rise Fits 1-1/4 Inch Hitch Ball Mounts | etrailer.com
Ball: Hitch Ball Standard Ball 2 Inch Diameter Ball 3/4 Inch Diameter Shank Balls | etrailer.com

This is drawn up specifically for your vehicle (the 2003 Honda Accord), any of the eqiupment shown will meet your needs. Bottom line is that for around $200 shipped (and about two hours with a wrench in your driveway), you can pull a trailer with your own vehicle safely and it should be cheaper both with fuel economy and equipment rental cost.

If you must take a truck, I personally would still go for the diesel for this one reason: you still can get the trucks optimum fuel efficiency even with a heavy trailer behind it while with gasoline you simply will not. Especially when the diesel is rated for so much more weight to begin with.
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Old 03-19-2011, 12:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thank you so much for your detailed answer. Right now I am looking at Penske Truck rentals. I got a quote for $506 for a 22' Diesel Truck, Car Carrier and Appliance Dolly with Unlimited mileage. U-Haul came in at close to $1000 for a smaller Gas truck. Budget came in at about $600 for a 24' Gas Truck.

Re: the car carrier. What difference does it make to me if I use the cheaper car tower (where only the front wheels are on the carrier) versus the full car carrier. I have never towed a car behind a moving truck before. It seems like the full car carrier would be easier to drive and safer?
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Old 03-19-2011, 01:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The tow dolley has the advantage of less weight by about half as much as the full carrier, and there is no real difference in the PULL aspect of operating either trailer. However the real pain lies if you ever have to back the tow dolley up because it allows the front axle of your car to pivot kind of like a "radio flyer" era wagon, thus you are essentially towing two very short trailers in a doubles configuration. I did some more research, and found that penske uses a medium grade car carrier that isn't as heavy as uhaul's but only supports up to around 4,100 lbs so hauling a minivan or larger vehicle wouldn't be practical. Sounds like you've got a good combination going for yourself.

Last edited by JeepNmpg2; 03-19-2011 at 01:54 PM.. Reason: miss labeled something
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Weigh stations

I was just informed that I will have to stop at weigh stations along my route. I have never done this. What is the procedure? Is there a fee?
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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weigh stations

Quote:
Originally Posted by cfguy2000 View Post
Weigh stations

I was just informed that I will have to stop at weigh stations along my route. I have never done this. What is the procedure? Is there a fee?
Check over your instructions from your employer or sponsering agency regarding this. In general, most weigh stations do not require you to stop unless you are over 26,000 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) as this is the maximum for a normal license. In my drive from WA to TX a week or so ago there were only three that I had to stop for. One because I had a trailer and two because I was over 10,000 lbs (Utah and Colorado I think).

Sorry, I got sidetracked - there is no cost for mandatory highway controled weigh stations! The only costs you may incur is if your employer asks for an empty and full weight tickets, which you should procure at your origin (at least if you work for the DOD).

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