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Old 10-18-2018, 01:02 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I'd get a commuter car, unless you're commuting to a construction site.

Might consider getting dedicated highway tires on some cheapo wheels and swap between traction/efficiency. That would get old real fast if you needed to do that often though.

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Old 10-18-2018, 04:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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WHAT???? what kinda talk is that? lol Getting into the 23's was awesome, 22 all winter would also be awesome. That is my current goal, to keep mpg's up there. If my truck was getting the mid teens... then yeah I'd get a commuter.
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Old 10-18-2018, 05:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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It's not just the cost of fuel, it's also the ongoing maintenance of everything else that needs attention due to putting miles on the chassis. When I bought my 1998.5 from DOT auction, I requested and received the full service history, which was nearly a ream of paper.

When do (quality) cars need front end rebuilds, U-joint greasing, $1000+ tire replacements, 12 quart oil changes, fuel filter changes, etc, etc.

Whenever I spend a lot of time in my sedan, it feels neat to be up high looking over traffic in the truck... and whenever I spend a lot of time in the truck, it feels neat to be down low in what feels like my sports sedan.

I'm saying that long distance commuting in a truck and asking about truck tires (still don't know if that's what you're doing, just sayin') is like asking how to better hammer nails with a shovel. It's worthwhile learning how best to hammer nails with a shovel if you're determined to do so, but it's not the prudent way to do the job.

If you're a single guy, then I get the appeal of a truck. Especially bench seats
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Its not the cost... its the challenge of it all and what I learn from it... If it were all about $, I would not keep it.
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Old 10-19-2018, 12:07 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve05ram360 View Post
Update + question...
These tires have a 2 ply sidewall, 75 series tire, new to the market. Any issue running this tire with a heavy load? It is a 10 ply E rated tire. The alternate has a 3 ply sidewall.

Rolling resistance has dropped quite a bit, mpg appears to be making a comeback, 420+ miles on them. Still squirrelly .
It's 10 ply Load range E. I would not hesitate to load it up, if aired up properly.
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Old 10-20-2018, 09:54 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve05ram360 View Post
Update + question...
These tires have a 2 ply sidewall, 75 series tire, new to the market. Any issue running this tire with a heavy load? It is a 10 ply E rated tire. The alternate has a 3 ply sidewall.

Rolling resistance has dropped quite a bit, mpg appears to be making a comeback, 420+ miles on them. Still squirrelly .
“Plies” became a meaningless term several decades ago as to load rating. Same for several other designators.

“Load Index” is what to check.

An LR-E tire is about 121 on LI scale.

If the Load Index is right, then construction isn’t a concern per se

DESCRIPTION of service is how I’d concern myself. A tire with open shoulders and widely-spaced tread blocks won’t be ideal for highway service. Not enough tread to spread the heat, so to speak. The total amount of tread versus a proper highway tire is reduced. Greater stresses over a comparable area.

This is before handling or braking. Just rolling along at speed.

Under load, increase it again.

But let’s use perspective. First off, there is no such thing as a pickup safe to drive above 65-mph. That’s already a real stretch from speeds where rollover tendencies can be dealt with. Only fools drink moonshine and fumble with firearms.

A truck crippled for highway work by off-road tires should be even slower. Work with vehicle spec, not against it.

If the dummies whose selfishness denies the above had any working knowledge about personal vehicle travel (Average MPH) they’d likely be more reasonable. A trip somewhere has many aspects. A plan that works all pieces is the successful one.

Meaning, it’s more than cruise control set speed.

Drive as if tires won’t ever again be available. And it’s THIS pickup that has to someday get family to safety.

Improve the suspension & steering. Super Steer Rear Panhard Rod, plus smallest Helwig rear anti-roll bar (and upsize front smallest amount with same brand is necessary). Better than entry-level shock absorbers.

Zero steering play. So long as ANY is present your truck will always be “off”. Tire design only adds to that problem. It’s not the same any day as any other, and it never a constant. It’s a changing variable.

If you drove my 2WD you’d see. You’ve driven cars that had worse steering/handling. As you’re familiar with the man trans, what you can then do widens the envelope.

It’d be an eye-opener to you how fast my overhead MPG readout climbs into the low thirties and stays there on level terrain after a reset. I know the correction factor, and it isn’t much. Can stay right there when all other conditions are favorable.

Can you reach over to backseat while underway to pour coffee? Truck doesn’t wander away from lane center? That’s not a huge exaggeration, given how bad some Dodge 4WD trucks are to be found.


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Old 10-20-2018, 10:04 AM   #27 (permalink)
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How bad are 4WD pickups?

My 13’ tall, 20,400-lb 579 Peterbilt semi tractor (13L Paccar with 10-speed Eaton AMT UltraShift) can hit in high 13’s to low 14-mpg while bobtail at 64-mph. Very first test I gave it.

I can let go of the steering wheel for extended periods (where periods can be fractions of seconds). Even several seconds. A vehicle that on a three-count is headed into the ditch is dangerous.

You’d (anyone) best believe that tire design, pressure and no-fault steering are huge contributors to MPG
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Old 10-20-2018, 10:31 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve05ram360 View Post
Update + question...
These tires have a 2 ply sidewall, 75 series tire, new to the market. Any issue running this tire with a heavy load? It is a 10 ply E rated tire. The alternate has a 3 ply sidewall.

Rolling resistance has dropped quite a bit, mpg appears to be making a comeback, 420+ miles on them. Still squirrelly .
You've already received some replies that are ….. uh ….. let's say "a bit off the mark."

Since different materials can be used to make tires, the number of plies is irrelevant. So much so that the old way of defining things (Ply Rating: 8 PR, 10 PR, etc.) was replaced long ago (in the 1960's!) by Load Range (LR D, LR E, etc.). And then the Europeans came up with Load Index (117, 121, etc.) - except they still like to use PR!, which confuses things further, since LI varies with size.

You are using a larger than stock tire (more load carrying capacity), but at a lower inflation pressure (less load carrying capacity), so the answer to your question is "Probably OK!"
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Old 10-24-2018, 08:48 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Yeah the concern is the sidewall flex. It stinks. If I stick with this size, going to go over to the Toyo Open Country AT2, 3 ply sidewall. If not, going back to a 70 series tire. These tires are not fun under hard braking and I often get the feeling of driving a boat behind another boat & crossing a wake. Weird feeling.

MPG wise it also is not that great... took an approx 2 mpg hit. The 5+ # per tire takes its toll on the hills on the front side. The back side does not offer enough coasting speed to make up for the front side loss.

As I mentioned earlier (I think) the last time I ran this size tire with crappy programming I was getting 21~22 all day long on the hiway. Not seeing that with this one and I feel the tread is sticky more so than the other tire for its 3 peak snow rating.

A winter time goal was to keep the mpg up there in the ~22 mpg range regardless of temps. Looking at adding a secondary fuel heater with some sort of automated control to get temps up into the 85~90ish range. Additionally, the oil filter heater on cold starts only with the goal to get oil temps up faster & reduce the overall warmup time. Commute is 30ish miles in the morning. I still have some aero mods to play with that I did not get to over the summer.
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:22 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Update: Rolling resistance has dropped to a point where I can now coast down most if not all of those flatter hills. MPG still in the 20~21 mpg range, going to go after the tune this weekend and attempt to get it dialed in for the added load. Where I believe the issue is, is in the uphill climbs, the added 5# of rotational mass & the slight gear change with the 1" taller tire has big enough effect on throttle response to cause the drop in mpg.

These tires are still coming off in the coming weeks...

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