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Old 05-03-2012, 03:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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100 grams ?
That's a LOT when it needs to be added in ppm quantities - even 1700ppm

Do you plan to do a lot of testing with it ?


If you had to buy more than you really need, I wouldn't mind to give it a shot and buy 10 grams from you for testing purposes in Hägar.

Oil swaps are only 3,7L, and I won't add more than 1g/kg oil i.e. 1000ppm - that'd mean enough for 3 oil swaps.

The 1.6D has a small extra oil filter for the turbo, but that's prone to clogging.
It might already have been removed during servicing as quite a few turbos have blown due to oil starvation, but you never know.

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Old 05-07-2012, 04:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Testing has begun on my Lupo 3L. I put 5 grams to engine oil while changing it to new. The mixing instruction to engine oil was 1.4 grams to quart or 0.946 liter (read one liter). You should use original oil filters, there has been some errors with aftermarket filters that they get glogged on that stuff...

Best way to mix it is to pour about half of oil inside the engine and put the powder into the oil canister. Close the cap and shake well. I first put powder to full oil canister and it did not mix enough...

To gearbox I put 30 grams as the instructions said 10 grams per liter (or quart). Best way to get the powder in if you dont change gearbox oils is to get a plastic bottle and fix a clear tube to the cap. Remember to tilt your car sideways so the oild wont come out when you remove the upper fill cap. Put the powder inside the plastic bottle and put it sideways. Start pressing the bottle/pumping air and every now and then put little bit of powder to the pipe. It wont go in one shot. I first just tried with regular transmission oil changer holder but it got stuck to the pipe. Dont press the bottle too crumped of it will stop flexing in the end so slow and steady is the right rhytm.

You need to get at least 30% air inside the pipe mixture or it will stuck my father told me .

Now comes the cool part. I did a 20 km test run. Car started to feel that it consumes less fuel on idle. Now the figure was 1 liter at 35 km/h speed. that means 0.35 liter/h.

Also I did my regular glide test which I do almost every day. Today I got about 60 meter longer than previous best on lupo. Result was only about 25 meter worse than my Seat Cordoba best glides were. Last section is little upphill, so huge improvement!. Will do tomorrow more testing and see if that was only one lucky glide start speed might have been 2-3 km/h over 40 km/h which is my start speed but that has been also higher at other times...

Ofcourse there is that realiability factor also, but based on todays feelings you can see the effects. That stuff will go also to some of my customers cars who are willing to take the risk of engine failure. My car is not the best test car because more mods are coming all the time...

Euromodder put your shipping address in private message and I will put it in mail...

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Old 05-08-2012, 09:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vekke View Post
The mixing instruction to engine oil was 1.4 grams to quart or 0.946 liter (read one liter).
I'll stick to 1g/L or even 1g/kg

Quote:
Best way to mix it is to pour about half of oil inside the engine and put the powder into the oil canister. Close the cap and shake well. I first put powder to full oil canister and it did not mix enough...
I have half a bottle left over, so I can prepare the fresh oil

Quote:
That stuff will go also to some of my customers cars who are willing to take the risk of engine failure.
As long as we're not adding too much, I don't expect a problem.
Back in the days a lot of people used liqui-moly Molybdene Sulfide, which was essentially some base oil + MoS2 powder.
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Awesome Vekke, I can`t wait for more results.

WS2 molecules rarely exceed 2 microns while even the best oil filters go down to only 5 microns, so in theory there should be no possibility of plugging a filter.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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So far I have made 3 coast down test to my home route. Today Drived two times 6 km and I think the coast down distance gets longer every try. This evening will drive about 100 km more if distances are getting longer there should be clear difference on the evening coast.

Last attempt its only about 15 meters from my parking space.

This morning had almost a heartattack. When I started to drive there was clear metal to metal squeeky noise from the front. Luckily that was only a rock in my front brakes. So far so good.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Distance has improved every time. After driving again about 7 km and coming back the improvement was about 1 meter.

Now in the evening droved 60 km and the improvement was 8 meters!.

Measured the total improvement by foot and its 50-60 meters. I did not have clear memory where the best was so far. But its 100% certain that the cars glides much better.

Now the remaining question is has durability went worse... But if you are willing to test new things and dont mind if somenthing brakes I would say try this WS2.

For WD40 when you put the stuff to your engine and transmission test before that how long your car rolls in some test place at slow speeds. After installation drive about 30 miles and repeat the test. If you put it only to your engine the coasting will not improve...
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:31 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Still going strong. That last 8 meter improved was caused by warm engine, lubricants and tires. Today I had also warm engine and the distance was again 8 meters longer... Also that how you drive those tight corners effect hugely to coasting distance on my route so the improvement is not that big anymore on that light but I think it still goes further any way you drive those corners. I will post a video of my usual test route to clear things out. That cutting corners made me think that stiff suspension will help also on that for sure, because there is not so much movement is suspension which eats energy...
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Old 05-17-2012, 03:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
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A8 luxury fuel sipper - '97 Audi A8 1.2 TDI 6 speed manual
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Today I used scale to measure the weight and it was a suprise.

5ml = 3,5 grams in my current powder.

That meas I put 2,5 times the amount of powder in my car that was the recommendation :/. Well so far so good.

Tomorrow will euromodder powder starts its journey in the mail. Also one other customer will put WS2 powder in his engine, gearbox and rear diff.
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:23 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I added 1 teaspoon to my engine and 2 teaspoons to my tranny.
idle seems smoother, seems to coast further, seems to shift smoother then before
MPG seems about the same .. so it might all be snake oil to most but I have a pound to play with so its going in everything that has wheels that I can.
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Siitin - '98 Seat Cordoba Vario
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VW Lupo 3L --> 2L - '00 VolksWagen Lupo 3L
Diesel
90 day: 104.94 mpg (US)

A8 luxury fuel sipper - '97 Audi A8 1.2 TDI 6 speed manual
90 day: 64.64 mpg (US)

Audi A4B6 Avant Niistäjä - '02 Audi A4b6 1.9tdi 96kW 3L
90 day: 54.57 mpg (US)

Tourekki - '04 VW Touareg 2.5TDI R5 6 speed manual
90 day: 32.98 mpg (US)

A2 1.4TDI - '03 Audi A2 1.4 TDI
90 day: 45.68 mpg (US)

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If it coasts further it helps . Are you able to see the effects in fuel consumption is a different matter.

I cannot see it in my lupo because I added so many other changes to the car during last tank, but the other guy will not do any other modifications and he will monitior the coasting distances...

If he gets also good results in coasting I will order more and start selling this stuff .

Basicly you can treat any odject that need to have little friction like your brake calibers to glide better all joints etc...

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