The 'Vic - 96 Civic DX

[hawk2100n]

Originally Posted by cbaber

I have the exact same problem. It's the input shaft bearing. Mine has been making the noise since I bought it... 75,000 miles ago! It hasn't gotten any worse so I guess I'll just drive until something breaks.

If you want your good gearing back, consider replacing the input shaft bearing yourself. It's actually a straightforward task. Google "honda civic input shaft bearing replacement" and you should see a couple different DIY guides that people have created with pictures and everything. The part is pretty cheap, and with some basic tools and a few hours you could have it working properly again. I'm considering doing this but my car is a daily driver and I don't want to risk not getting it put back together in one weekend and being without a car.

If I knew what I knew now I'd be on the lookout for a good used transmission and swap it when the time was right. My transmission has always been loud, it just got a LOT louder in the last week and made be start worrying about it. Now its at the point where I dont want to drive it and risk massive failure. I have seen a lot of suggestions for swapping the input bearing but it looks like its more complicated than people say and there is no guarantee that I won't have a bad shaft or something else and I will still have to get a new trans. My car just hit 192,000 and I've had it since 149k. Hope yours hangs in there but at least you know that you could do what I did if you find yourself in a pinch.

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by hawk2100n

If I knew what I knew now I'd be on the lookout for a good used transmission and swap it when the time was right. My transmission has always been loud, it just got a LOT louder in the last week and made be start worrying about it. Now its at the point where I dont want to drive it and risk massive failure. I have seen a lot of suggestions for swapping the input bearing but it looks like its more complicated than people say and there is no guarantee that I won't have a bad shaft or something else and I will still have to get a new trans. My car just hit 192,000 and I've had it since 149k. Hope yours hangs in there but at least you know that you could do what I did if you find yourself in a pinch.

My solution to this was to get a good replacement transfer before the failure and set aside the old one for rebuilding. Big job, but no unacceptable break in my access to my DD.

[hawk2100n]

After 8 hours the new tranmission and cluch are in the car. The job went smoothly overall but it is flat out a lot of work. A couple of issues I ran into.

There are two bolts attaching the starter to the engine block and go through the bell housing. One is short and one is longer ~4". The long one was apparently siezed to the block for the last 1/4" of threads and these broke off and marred up the hole some. I was able to use a tap and very carefully clean up the remaining 1.25" of threads. Easier said than done as you have to make sure the bolt goes straight into the tap or you will crossthread the whole bolt. I ground off the marred section and the bolt went back in smoothly.

I ordered the replacement clutch from RockAuto. Got the RhinoPac clutch kit and matching flywheel. It came with the wrong throwout bearing. The bearing on the replacement transmission was like new so I reluctantly used that.

Maiting the transmission back up to the car is difficult and requires extra jacks to support the weight. An engine hoist might have helped. Car was on a 2 post lift so I could move the whole car up and down.

Donor transmission had some water in it from sitting so I flushed it as best as I could with compressed air and filled it with 2 quarts of 10w-30. I will put in Pennzoil Synchromesh in 100-200 miles.

Brand new Pennsoil Synchromesh can leak out of the bottle and all over your trunk even if you havent opened it.

The car drives like it is brand new. I can't believe how many NVH issues were caused by a bad transmission. There was a lot of slop that you would feel if you let off the gas and got back on and now thats gone. Car is way quieter and smoother to drive. I also fixed a exhaust leak that was worse than I thought so that is also quieter. I am extremely satisfied with how the car now drives and would recommend replacing the trans to anyone who may have the problems I had.

Total cost was just over $500
Transmission $220
Clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder $190 including $50 express shipping from RockAuto
Shop access + supplies $83 (military auto hobby shops are great; tools, lifts, supplies and advice)
MTF $18

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by hawk2100n

After 8 hours the new tranmission and cluch are in the car. The job went smoothly overall but it is flat out a lot of work.

Props to you for the skills and the fast work. My learning curve and pacing made the job take several days--after I had the parts in hand. Sure is fun when you drive it and it feels new, though, eh?

[cbaber]

It's a good feeling when you tackle a project that big. It gives you a lot more confidence for other work as well.

I've had a brand new 5 quart jug of motor oil spill in the trunk. Most have a seal but apparently I bought one without it. I had it in my car when my engine used oil. I noticed a strong smell in the car one day, and found a big mess waiting in the trunk. Now all fluid containers that ride in the trunk are bungee corded in an upright position. Lesson learned the hard way.

[hawk2100n]

Raspberry Pi Timelapse - Civic Transmission Swap - YouTube

A timelapse of me doing work.

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by hawk2100n

Raspberry Pi Timelapse - Civic Transmission Swap - YouTube

A timelapse of me doing work.

That lift was a gift from the gods.

[hawk2100n]

I have REDICULOUS news. Turns out that I probably got an HX/CX transmission. I never took the time to verify the final drive ratio and after I started the job I realized I should have. However I had what I thought was good intel on the transmission as an EX coupe which should be 4.250. Overall regression but what can you do. Well I took my car on a quick 130 mile highway round trip on Saturday and the RPMs were significantly lower. I wasn't hitting 3000 RPMs until I was getting close to 80 mph. I made a spreadsheet on my car's gear ratios a while back and before 80 mph was 3483. Now it's supposed to be 3194 which jives with what I saw on the scangauge. I'll have to start data collection to verify vehicle speed and try to deduce the ratio and come to an independent conclusion but this just makes the outcome that much better.

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by hawk2100n

I have REDICULOUS news. Turns out that I probably got an HX/CX transmission. I never took the time to verify the final drive ratio and after I started the job I realized I should have.

Wow. You may know of this or have seen it, but just in case, I have posted collected information on these transmissions: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post378478

Did it have the S20 or the S40 sticker on it? Did it have P20 stamped in the bell housing? Maybe it no longer matters... just measure what it does on the road.

It sure sounds like you have one of the very tall final drives.

[hawk2100n]

Originally Posted by California98Civic

Wow. You may know of this or have seen it, but just in case, I have posted collected information on these transmissions: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post378478

Did it have the S20 or the S40 sticker on it? Did it have P20 stamped in the bell housing? Maybe it no longer matters... just measure what it does on the road.

It sure sounds like you have one of the very tall final drives.

It's an S40. That's the one thing I knew to look for when buying. I just went out and took a look at it. It's stamped P4A and the second sticker says E7F.

Yeah I had been referencing your thread. Very helpful, thanks! I was particularly interested in what years were drop-in compatible when I was searching and you had that info in there. Now I'm referencing it for the gear ratios. I still haven't come across good info on how to differentiate based on the outside if the transmission. According to Reference: Transmission Specs - ClubCivic.com - Honda Civic Forum the trans could be either of the final drives as an E7F just depending on the chassis.

I will say that I did not feel a difference seat of the pants but so many aspects of the car changed after the swap I wouldn't know it if it hit me in the face.