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Old 01-01-2019, 08:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The thing about carbureted engines is that sometimes you CAN'T drive off right away. Well behaved carbs will let you drive off right away, but sometimes carbs kill the engine just touching the throttle if it is cold and the choke isn't set right.
Well, anything won't work if it isn't set right. My VW Thing was a champ all winter.

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Old 01-01-2019, 11:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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my 63 D200 truck was set to run lean, it needed a little warm-up before it was drivable and it had a heat exchanger between the exhaust manifold and carb
it just didn't have any power until it warmed a little

I always wanted to add an insulated hot water tank to shorten the warm-up
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Old 01-02-2019, 12:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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A small tarp and some bungee cords keep the ice off the windows. A circulating block heater is what the municipal snow plows use.
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Old 01-02-2019, 06:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I question the cost of using a block heater regularly compared to 5 mins of idling. If you put the heater on a timer because you know exactly when you will be leaving and then maybe it's less. Some of those things use some serious watts.
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Old 01-03-2019, 03:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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At a 1/2 gph idle consumption and $2 a gallon gas, I came up with $0.0167 per minute of idle cost. Forgetting the electricity cost just say the heater cost $50, it would take almost 3000 minutes of idle time to match the $50.
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Old 01-03-2019, 05:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemo View Post
Another article confirming what we know. The best way to warm up is by driving
Unless the windows need defogging, I don't idle it.

With heating on full, it hardly warms up anyway during idling.
Needs to be driven to warm up.
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:03 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hersbird View Post
I question the cost of using a block heater regularly compared to 5 mins of idling. If you put the heater on a timer because you know exactly when you will be leaving and then maybe it's less. Some of those things use some serious watts.
The degradation to engine oil & ring life is what you’re missing. The amount of acids formed is prohibitive.

Year-round, cutting the total time (not distance) to engine op temp is key. The “winter penalty” is somewhat offset by year-round attention to the problem.

The insulated garage is the answer.

In the meantime it’s making best use of tools: pre-heat, trip plan for initial miles, and recognizing the difference between empty and loaded (wherein not entering a highway from cold start on a cold day be offset by several miles of lower speed warmup).

(Cutting potential vehicle life by objecting to electricity use makes no sense).
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:39 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
The degradation to engine oil & ring life is what you’re missing. The amount of acids formed is prohibitive.

Year-round, cutting the total time (not distance) to engine op temp is key. The “winter penalty” is somewhat offset by year-round attention to the problem.

The insulated garage is the answer.

In the meantime it’s making best use of tools: pre-heat, trip plan for initial miles, and recognizing the difference between empty and loaded (wherein not entering a highway from cold start on a cold day be offset by several miles of lower speed warmup).

(Cutting potential vehicle life by objecting to electricity use makes no sense).
.
Maybe, but I have never blown the lubricated part of an engine in any car or truck I have ever had. Even at over 300,000 miles on some of them. Every other part of the drivetrain will fail 3 times or more before you get to that point of worrying about rings and bearings. I did have a flat lobe on a camshaft once at 175,000 miles but it was a known metallurgy issue with a small window of cams manufactured that year.
I agree the garage is best and you don't even have to full on heat it. I have a furnace in the garage but only use it I'd I'm working in there. Most days the process of parking the fully warmed up car in there and closing it up keeps the temperature inside above freezing even when the lows get down in the teens and that's just one car in a detached 24x36 space.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:50 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Agree, I'm not talking about short trips where water could be an issue. If your drive is that short I think you'd be better off making a 20 mile run every weekend. I doubt a block heater would ever get hot enough to solve all the issues that short drives can cause. I also haven't had an oil related failure on anything but yard equipment since my 1975 XL175.
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Old 01-09-2019, 04:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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5 minutes of idling my Acura would have it to full operating temperature. 5 minutes of idling my truck wouldn't move the temp needle. It would take an hour of idle to get to operating temp in my truck.

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