Geo Metro powered Middy - Build Log

[Talon]

I have had to work on other projects lately, so the progress has been slow. Good news is that the other projects have been going well, so I'll be back on the little car soon. I did have a chance to get the front shock mounts done on one side. I made the lower front shock mount a two piece thing so I can replace it with a little different configuration if I need to adjust the ride height once I get it on it's feet. I don't think I'll need to, but if you can't build it accurate, build it adjustable.

These pictures are of the one side at full droop. I had the shocks laying around from another project, but they are fairly universal motorcycle shocks, so I can get others if I need to adjust spring rate later. If they happen to work, bonus!

TALON §

[a8ksh4]

Hi Talon, I just found your thread. Awesome build. This is something that I've thought about doing for a long while. Maybe once I buy and house and have some long-term project space... Thanks for all the posts, so far!

[Talon]

I got my engine/transmission picked up a few days ago and brought into the shop. Engine is put together "loose", it wasn't in a running donor, it was pulled several years ago and has been in a shop for a while. It is loose and turns over smoothly, I don't see any rust/corrosion/broken parts etc. and it looks like it is mostly there, and the price was right (FREE!).

I plan to re-build it anyway, so wear and tear I can handle. Here are a few obvious things I noticed so far on this unfamiliar-to-me engine. . .

1) Cam sprocket will need replaced. It looks like it was run with the cam sprocket bolt loose and the center hole is wallowed out. The end of the cam and the bolt look good though, and a degreed cam sprocket is one of the upgrades I want to do anyway.

2) Engine sure doesn't weigh much. I grabbed it by the ends and picked it up out of the pickup bed and carried it into the garage without getting my dress pants dirty. Anyone know what these things actually weigh? I'd guess the long-block to be 110 pounds? The transmission was a one hand affair to pick up and carry to the garage, 40 pounds maybe?

3) The axle shafts were not with the engine, so I guess I'll need to get those somewhere. Anyone know if they are the same side to side? (Will the splines line up on both sides.) I am going to need to fabricate axles anyway, so I only need the inner CV and enough shaft to cut/weld to. I'm not sure what I am doing with the outside hubs yet. . .

4) The wiring harness and computer was obvious by it's absence. I have read that the computer is one of the biggest differences between standard and XFi engines. Anyone know what I'll lose with a standard ECU? I am planning to build a fully independent engine control system, but would kinda like to get it running and on the road first the simplest way possible initially. Maybe I can fabricate an intake manifold and put a carb on it initially to get it on the road. (I've always wanted to try a progressive gang of Walbro cube-carbs.) The distributor looks like it has vacuum and centrifugal advance/retard, so a carb should work OK, and then I wouldn't need any ECU/wiring harness until I get into the independent system.

5) The front timing belt cover is missing. Also it looks like the belt tensioner may be broken.

6) Transmission is light and feels tight. I see the normal road gunk on it, but don't see obvious leakage anywhere to indicate bad seals. The shifter appears to be one shaft? I think I found all 5 gears and a reverse. Making a cable shifter may be kinda tricky. The shaft is pointing out to the rear, which is what it should do in the original car, and requires both push/pull and twist it appears. In my rear engine setup, the shaft will be pointing towards the back bumper, so I'll need something to completely reverse the inputs and put them on the other side of the engine and forward around 3-4 feet, while hopefully keeping something that still resembles and H pattern. I'm gonna have to think on that one. . . any ideas?

This weekend I hope to get a chance to pull the head and check the cylinder walls for wear. Also, I'll turn the head upside down and see if the combustion chambers will hold some diesel fuel overnight. I might get by without having to rebuild the head. Just some porting and smoothing and call it good. I also want to measure the cam to verify that it is an XFi. (under 40mm lobes = XFi / over 40mm = standard)

Also, does anyone know how to verify the XFi transmission? I have read about ways to test in the vehicle, but mine isn't in the vehicle.

Anyway, lots of questions that need answers and thought. . .

TALON §

[mikeyjd]

Awesome thread! Good luck on getting some answers. You could also pm old_mechanic to see if he has any Input. I see him answering more difficult mechanical issues all the time.

[Talon]

I have been making progress, honestly I have. I just haven't been getting posts up very well. I have the engine/trans up on the bench and propped to the correct angle. That took a grunt, but I lifted them up there by just grabbing the ends and picking it up. I think I like working with little engines. Anyway, once I got it set to the correct angle I started putting metal around it. The engine cage is what we have here. It is tacked together and I started welding it, but ran out of wire before I was done. Remember, the engine unit bolts to the rear of the passenger compartment with four bolts, as you can see in the pictures, I have the engine and cage beside of the passenger section, which looks kinda wonky in some of the pictures. This power unit has three mounts, I fabricated one, bought one and modified one. Now I need to get the three attached to the cage somehow. I also did a little doodling on a couple pictures to show what I am aiming at. The full width of the engine cage is 4 feet, the front wheels are 6 feet apart, so I should have room for the McPherson struts outside of the engine cage. The axles are going to be long. In the overall picture you can see that I should have plenty of room for an electronics box and battery beside of the engine. I still need to sort out a shift linkage to convert the original solid linkage to a cable setup. I also need to find hubs, LCA struts for the rear. I can probably build the lower A-Arm, and I may even decide to do a double A-Arm coilover setup, but I do need hubs yet.

Anyway, work progresses. This wouldn't be any fun at all I already knew exactly what I was doing.

TALON §

[freebeard]

The shaft is pointing out to the rear, which is what it should do in the original car, and requires both push/pull and twist it appears. In my rear engine setup, the shaft will be pointing towards the back bumper, so I'll need something to completely reverse the inputs and put them on the other side of the engine and forward around 3-4 feet, while hopefully keeping something that still resembles and H pattern. I'm gonna have to think on that one. . . any ideas?

This problem has been solved on mid-engined VW sand buggies. They have a single shaft. You might be able to do it with off-the-shelf parts. Try CB Performance.

Anyway, work progresses. This wouldn't be any fun at all I already knew exactly what I was doing.

“If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein

[Talon]

I hadn't thought of a VW cable shifter. I haven't ever played with VWs, but if they are a single shaft, I should be able to find something that will modify to work. VWs have a HUGE aftermarket. Thanks for that tip, much appreciated.

TALON §

[freebeard]

https://www.google.com/search?q=sand...hifter+linkage

You may find it's solid rods with swivel joints. Happy hunting.

[Talon]

I was actually thinking about a series of steering shaft u-joints for the twist part and a cable for the push-pull part of the motion, but the two-cable set ups I am seeing would be simpler. I looks like the VW kits clamp to a nose tube that the shaft comes out of and then to the shaft. My tranny doesn't have the nose tube to clamp to. But I am seeing other setups for Porsche 911 that has a bracket mounted to the tranny rather than the nose tube. I could make something like that work. Thanks for the direction.

Also, what is the benefit of two stick shifters? Simplicity?

TALON §

[freebeard]

Also, what is the benefit of two stick shifters? Simplicity?

???? Any example?